49 dodge with crankcase breather valve question

[mrizzodpm]

The seller of the truck assures me that the truck doesn't leak or burn oil. He states that after running the engine there are 5-6 drops of oil on the ground due to the "normal" operation of the crankcase valve? Also there is some smoking if the choke is set too high but it stops after extra fuel is burned off. Other problems include non-functioning fuel guage & temp guage. How bad are these problems to correct?

Thanks.

[Guest Kuster13]

Sounds like the seller's assurances are leaking and burning alittle bit of oil. The fuel guage/sender may just be a bad ground and the temperature sender may have an issue with the blub and tube.

Tom

[aero3113]

If the oil is dripping from the crankcase draft tube that is somewhat normal. The non working fuel gauge is typical and probably the sender in the tank needs to be replaced (easy Fix). The temp gauge may be stuck or capillary tube may have a crack, it can also be replaced without much work .

[HanksB3B]

In general, that the truck is "all there" (as far as parts go because some are hard to come by). The extent of rust affects the cost of the restore, as does the lack of body work to be done. Intact floorboards and the condition of the cab floor are important. There are still engines around. Leaks are the rule rather than the exception. I'd be more concerned with compression numbers than how well the carburator/choke/smoke thing is concerned. Is this a $600 dollar or $6,000 (i.e.) purchase. Be sure of one thing, it does not matter how good it looks or runs, it will be a never-ending story of things to do and improve. If that sounds like fun to you then don't hesitate to buy it.

Any pictures?

Hank

[mrizzodpm]

The seller wants to get $5k out of the truck. He says the engine, tranny, generator and starter were all rebuilt but he doesn't know when exactly. He has owned it for about 5 years. The right rear fender is cracked and appears loosely attached to the bed. He denies any accidents or frame damage. He says the cab was sanded and painted inside and out by a very experienced painter. The bed has a metal cover over the old floorboards. Can you give me your thoughts on what you think she's worth?

Many thanks for your help.

Will send pics.

[JBNeal]

I dunno, for $5k I'd want a decent set of tires on it and no obvious sheet metal damage. That rear fender will require some work, but the sheet metal lines appear to be where they should be & the truck doesn't seem to be leaning one way or the other. I'm guessing this is an older restoration from the looks of the interior paint gloss on the dash and the surface rust under the glove box door. The quality of the paint on top of the cab usually gives me an idea of how well the paint was applied. Faded paint, runs, uneven texture or gloss & oxidation are things to look for there.

As for the motor, I'm guessing the valve cover gaskets have been leaking from the residual oil gathered on the engine block to crankcase pan flange. I'm curious as to why the fuel pump supply line is routed so close to the oil pump before it makes its break toward the carburetor. There is no halo on the radiator honeycomb, so that's good. There is no obvious corrosion at the lower radiator outlet either.

Definitely get a look at the steering mechanism, any slop there will cost $$$ in repairs & elbow grease. Also look at the door hinges & latch mechanism on the driver side. Slop there or hard to operate handles usually indicate lack of lubrication and can be an annoyance to repair. Another place to look is the cab mounts, especially the ones at the rear. If ya see an odd zigzag rusty line in this area, then ya got a real headache on yer hands.

Oil dripping out of the crankcase vent is normal. Going with a PCV system here would eliminate the drips. Fuel & temp gauge repairs are nice little projects to attempt to fix, there are enough details that have to be addressed to make it cheaper to fix yourself if you've got the know-how. If you drive the truck for more than 20 minutes and the oil pressure gauge drops to near zero, then the oil pressure relief valve will need to be removed and cleaned off as it is hanging inside its bore. If there is corrosion around the freeze plugs on the motor, them things are leaking & will need to be fixed, and that can get a little messy sometimes.

Bottom line, if the truck's title is clear, you could sink up to $1k into this to get it to be a driver and not have to worry about something falling off or blowing apart or leaving a trail behind it that Stevie Wonder could follow.

Edited May 14, 2010 by JBNeal
poor grammar

[HanksB3B]

about the truck, but there are some concerns. First off the price in my estimatimation is about $2k more than I'd expect. Although the truck is "all-there" (grill, wheels & hubcaps, front bumper guards, and even a rear bumper) the bed and rear fenders (depending on your intent) needs some major surgery. Do you intend to do a ground up restoration, use it as a primary work vehicle, or just tool around town at night with a great looking girl in an old truck and if you break down...oh well..you can always walk her home?

Hank

[mrizzodpm]

as to price and what I can expect in repairs on her.

Many thanks guys for all your help. Its obvious that you all really love these old ugly trucks. They do get more beautiful the more you look at them though. Am I allowed to download more pics?

Edited May 14, 2010 by mrizzodpm
pictures didn't download