Bob_Koch Posted July 21, 2009 Report Posted July 21, 2009 Got this note from Walt Hoffman. Since I've never had to work on the rear axle I didn't have an answer, so I bring it to the experts here: "Does any one have a better idea in taking the yoke off the rear end. I dropped the drive line, remove the cotter pin and removed the nut. I could not get it off with two different pullers. Am I missing something? " Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 21, 2009 Report Posted July 21, 2009 Use a bigger puller! It will come off. Bob Quote
grey beard Posted July 21, 2009 Report Posted July 21, 2009 I have never seen nor heard of a yoke puller. Mine tapped off with an 8 oz. ball pien hammer, just like every one I've ever seen. The only thing that keeps them in place once the nut is removed is the pinion seal and the crud that gets packed around the lip. Shouldn't be a biggie to remove. Once they're started off, you can get a big screwdriver behind the back side to help it along. Quote
MBF Posted July 21, 2009 Report Posted July 21, 2009 Soak it good w a penetrating oil-there is probably a lot of goo as and rust on the splines. Give it some taps around the splined area to help the oil get where it needs to go. Once they start moving you've got it made. Mike Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 22, 2009 Report Posted July 22, 2009 I have never seen nor heard of a yoke puller. Mine tapped off with an 8 oz. ball pien hammer, just like every one I've ever seen. The only thing that keeps them in place once the nut is removed is the pinion seal and the crud that gets packed around the lip. Shouldn't be a biggie to remove. Once they're started off, you can get a big screwdriver behind the back side to help it along. Usually they do come right off, but when one of them doesn't come off easily you need to use a puller. Caused by tight spline fit-sludge ect. In the 1946-52 Plymouth shop manual it shows miller tool C452 being called for to remove the rear yoke. I use a 10 ton PosiLok 2 jaw puller on the tough ones. Bob Quote
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