47Plymouth Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 Anyone know what residual valves to buy to run on 47Plymouth, Charlie's Disc brakes on the front and stock on the rear. Also what is a 31 Chevy worth, my mother in law restored car in the 60s and sold in the early ninety's. The guy who bought car hasn't touched it and the family wants to sell it. My mother in law sold for 3400-3600 in early 90's. 47 Plymouth Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 You need a 2 lb. and a 10 lb. residual valve. Forgot which goes on the front and rear line though without looking up the instructions again. Maybe someone else will chime in as to which goes where. Quote
daddyo23 Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 2 lbs. in front and a 10lbs. in back. Don't know about the car, I always pay too much and sell too low..... Wayne P. Quote
james curl Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 Different people here on the forum got different results than I did with my kit from Old Daddy. I used the 2lb in the fronts and the 10lb in the back lines behind the master cylinder. After driving for a couple hundred miles with a very high hard pedal, I jacked the car up and could hardly turn the front wheels. I removed the internal residual valve in the master cylinder and have not had a problem in 6,000 miles since. Quote
James_Douglas Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 You MUST remove the internal MC residual valve. If you want to do it text book, then you would also want a metering valve and a proportioning valve. Many folks here omit those last two items. I did my "by the book" and use a residual valve and a proportioning valve. My system is very well balanced and I get very little forward lean on heavy braking. I recommend that anyone making design changes to a brake system get Fred Puhn's Brake Handbook. http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Handbook-Fred-Puhn/dp/0895862328 James Quote
47Plymouth Posted August 26, 2008 Author Report Posted August 26, 2008 Thanks for the info guys, i ordered a 2lb and a 10lb residual valve. 47Plymouth Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted August 26, 2008 Report Posted August 26, 2008 You MUST remove the internal MC residual valve. If you want to do it text book, then you would also want a metering valve and a proportioning valve.Many folks here omit those last two items. I did my "by the book" and use a residual valve and a proportioning valve. My system is very well balanced and I get very little forward lean on heavy braking. I recommend that anyone making design changes to a brake system get Fred Puhn's Brake Handbook. http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Handbook-Fred-Puhn/dp/0895862328 James James, I did not remove anything from my original MC, nor did I add a metering valve or proportioning valve. Just used the residual valves. Brakes work fine and I don't have any forward lean on heavy braking either. I bought my brake kit from ECI and they said all you need is the residual valves with stock MC. I have also been a passenger in Don Coatney's P15. He bought his brake kit from PlyDo. All he added was the residual valves like I did. I did not experience any forward heavy lean in his P15 either. I would think the people making these kits would recommend the other items mentioned to up their sales, if they were needed. Quote
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