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Rear motor mounts too fat?


DonaldSmith

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I plan to pull my tip-toe transmission this Fall, to check the clutch and the input shaft bearing in the drive plate, to replace the spring on the throwout bearing, and to put that elusive gasket between the transmission and the bell housing.

During my engine rework a few years ago, I had considerable trouble removing and later re-installing the transmission. It would go back so far but then hit a reinforcing channel at the floor hump. Also, the speedometer cable at the transmission is ver-r-r-ry close to the floor.

I retrieved Don Coatney's annotated photo of the motor mount parts, and I see that the top one is 1.12" thick. (Call it 1-1/8" for those of us who think in fractions.) The sides taper evenly.

My upper motor mounts seem to be 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" thick; I'll try to get a closer measurement The sides taper, and then go straight for another quarter inch.

Now, the rear of the transmission is half again as far from the front mount as the rear mounts are. If the rear mounts are 1/4" too thick, the rear of the transmission would be 3/8" too high; If 1/2", then 3/4". Hmm...

(If the front mount is compressed, say 1/4" too much, the rear of the transmission would only be 1/8" too high, so I don't think the front mount is the problem.)

I remember seeing a cross section through the motor mounts with some instructions for one mount versus the other. Can someone post it again?

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Yep, removable floor pan, with its own access covers for the master cylinder and the tip-toe transmission electricals. (I would call them electronics but they aren't that fancy.) But removing the floor panr did not remove the interference I had in trying to slide the transmission back to remove it.

In my mind games I'm figuring if I can pull the transmission without removing the floor pan. I would probably get halfway through and wish i had removed the floor pan.

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