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I cleaned and reinstalled my clutch on my '55 C3 B8. Today, I adjusted the clutch linkage via the turn buckle, plenty of threads each way. However, the column shift doesn't want to go into gear (even 2nd) while engine is running and the pedal feels fairly light (or soft), like I can press down all the way to the floor with my hand. How heavy (or light) is this clutch supposed to feel? I have a feeling the pressure plate might be shot. I could see the throwout bearing engage with the pressure plate springs (four of them on my model), so there is some articulation there. On a side note, I got the box mocked back up and set on the frame today. Friday, I rewired the negative from coil to distributor, as points weren't firing. It's always something... Any insight on the clutch is appreciated, thanks! Havs

I'm wondering why the clutch that came with my 1951 B3B doesn't look like the clutch on page 163 of the shop manual. Here's what came with my truck: (I included two pictures of my clutch disc just to help with an ID. The disc is 11 inches wide. The center hub has 10 splines and looks like 1 1/4 inches in diameter.) The clutch shown in the shop manual (page 163) looks more like the one in the picture below (which I copied from the DCM Central web site. Can anyone explain the apparent discrepancies between my clutch and the ones pictured in the shop manual and at DCM? 1. My clutch cover is round. The one below from DCM (and also in the book) has a hexagonal shape. 2. My clutch cover has 4 release levers. The one below (and also in the shop manual) has only 3.

First off, forgive me that I'm new to all this. I'm learning as I go. Had a bad clutch chatter in my '47 Plymouth and am replacing the rear main seals and clutch. I ordered a new clutch disc from Bernbaum but the new one has a deeper offset than my original and doesn't seat properly in the pressure plate. I looked on the forums and for other online images and haven't found another that looks similiar to the one that I have. I am wondering if I just need to order another pressure plate or find a different clutch. The clutch that came out is a 9 1/4. Also, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there is any sort of plug or cap that is supposed to go on the transmission where it bolts up. I got a new seal and it has a hole around the opening and it seems to me like there should be, but again, I have zero experience and the manual doesn't show anything. Thanks! Dan

Is there a good aftermarket clutch and pressure plate for the Dodge PU 1949 B1B? This is 10" Dia. 10 spline clutch. I have seen plenty of "Precision Clutch" advertisements but no way to search for compatibility with my truck.

Well, after a long hiatus, both from the forum and the '47 Plymouth, we are getting things going again. We 'blew up' a clutch a while back and experienced a some problems trying to replace it. Not sure if I brought the first set of problems on to myself . . . In looking at the flywheel, there are two sets of bolt holes: the 'inner' set matches up to my original Borg & Beck 9-1/8" Clutch and Pressure Plate, rebuilt by TN Clutch in 2005. The 'outer' set of holes match up to the 10" 6-Spring Borg & Beck Clutch I had on my shelf. (Clutch Pat. No. 2.277.555-2.448.079; 9-Spring Pressure Plate Pat. No. 1889939-1880590-2104982). I believe these came out of an early 50's auto. With a son in 3-On-The-Tree learning mode, I thought the 10" would be a good drop in. My Clutch alignment tool fit fine, the clutch splines matched up with the trani shaft splines, but was a bit of a tight fit. We tried multiple times to mount the clutch, pressure plate and trani and things sort of hung there. Last week we pulled the 10" clutch/pressure plate out and installed a spare 9-1/8" Borg & Beck that appeared to have some life left in it. Doing some reading, I realized that there was a gasket missing between the bell housing and trani - never had one there that I'm aware of. We made a gasket for that interface , got everything lined up with a little difficulty and installed. Possible problem - with parts lying on the garage floor for over a year, there was a possibility of the propeller shaft getting flipped end for end . . . any problem there? We've pulled it back out and reversed it without any change. Oh, that brings me to the problem I'm having, starting out in 1st or reverse or downshifting 3rd into 2nd, there is a horrible shuddering and clanging; actually shakes the front end. It is almost impossible to get a smooth start. Pulling the floor and watching while moving the car, you can feel the shuddering, but the bouncing of the engine on the mounts I expected was not there. Engine mounts are probably original. Looking at the propeller shaft during movement I can see it 'bouncing' back and forth as it turns. I have a video I'll post shortly that will demonstrate that better than my writing. Maybe this movement is normal, as I've never looked at the propeller shaft during start up . . . Any suggestions on locating the source of the vibration? I know this is hard when you can't put hands, eyes and ears on the car! John

Ive got my engine together then pulled the original one and took off the bell housing and flywheel to put on the new engine. One of the bolt holes on the fly wheel that holds the pressure plate on has some really bad threads, putting a bolt in does not need turning - just wiggle it some. When I took the pressure plate off there was no bolt at all in this hole. I tried putting a tap in it but it practically falls thru. I'm guessing the original bolt vibrated loose and tore up the threads in the process but not sure what happened. The bolt was not in the inspection cover. Will a heli-coil work on this? Ive used them before but never on something that would be vibrating as much as a flywheel. Kinda stuck but I would like to make certain I get all the bolts in. Only other real option is try and find another flywheel.

I have a 54 Savoy with a Powerflite and the 230 in it. The Poweflite is shot and instead of having it rebuilt I am opting to switch out to a manual transmission. The plans are currently to go the T5 route. The problem I am having is that I in order to do this I need buy all of the parts for this car as if it were equipped with a manual tranny...including flywheel, clutch assembly / pressure plate, etc. From what I understand the 230 flywheel is different than the 218 flywheel (8 vs 4 bolts). I counted the teeth on the current torque converter ring gear and it has 146. The only place I have been able to find a 230 flywheel and ring gear is VPW and the one they are sending me is drilled for a 10" clutch assembly / pressure plate. The clutch assembly / pressure plate and clutch disc that I have and was going to use is 9". What I was wondering is if the flywheels for the 230 were different based on application (truck vs. car, etc.)? My initial thought is that I could have the flywheel they are sending me tapped / redrilled to accept the 9" clutch assembly that I have. But, now I am worrying about whether my current starter is going to work in this configuration. I have a 3sp manual bellhousing and my starter bolts up fine to that. The engine is ready to pick up from the machine shop and the flywheel and ring gear are en route so I guess I will find out soon enough. Just wondering if anyone had any information / guidance that they could share.