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Showing results for tags 'Leaking'.
Found 4 results
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The seat of the heater control valve has some pitting and corrosion. I don't have a good seal because I can blow through the valve even when fully closed. Is there a way to refurbish the valve seat to prevent it from bypassing? On the other hand, the silvery colored tubular valve stem has two 1/4 inch slits cut into it at the seating surface which appear to allow a small amount of coolant to bypass through the valve even when closed. Why the engineers wanted to allow a small leak past the seat is a mystery to me. But the main issue is the valve seat.
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- heater valve bypassing
- heater valve refurbishing
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I'm completing a total rebuild of the engine, but my problem has been coolant leaks. The two longer manifold studs leaked. One of the water pump bolts leaked. And one head bolt leaked. I've solved all those problems using aviation gasket maker but I have one more leak that has me more concerned than the others. I'm somehow getting coolant in the oil. When I cracked open the drain plug I got a stream of coolant, maybe an ounce or two, before I saw any oil drain out. So now I've taken the front of the engine apart again. I gave the welch plug another good smack with a 13/16 socket for good measure. From what I can tell the real problem is water getting past one of the timing cover bolts and soaking through the backing plate gasket. Initially I used aviation gasket maker on the timing cover bolts, but I did not smear it on the gasket. When I reassemble everything I WILL generously coat the gasket and smear the female bolt holes with AGM before I coat the bolts and insert them. Other than timing cover bolts and the front welch plug, is there any other way for coolant to get into the oil? Is Aviation Gasket Maker the best way to seal the threads or is there a better sealant? I think the hole next to the welch plug leaked.
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Replacing the rear engine seal on my '53 Pilothouse B4B. Just trying to line up my ducks before diving into this. I welcome any advice from those who have replaced their engine seals. 1. What items should I be looking at buying before the Job? I'm thinking that at the least, I'll need an oil pan gasket and the rear engine seal kit. 2. Is there anything else I should consider doing while I have the pan dropped? 3. What's the realistic Pain In The Ass Factor for this job? Thanks!
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47' Plymouth Special Deluxe Will be a lot of trouble mounting a Ford 9" rear end? The leaf spring mount is welded to the axle. If I cut the leaf spring bracket off the existing axle. Measure, etc and attach it to the new one will i run into any issues? ALSO, the shocks on the rear axle are mounted at a 45 degree angle. Why is that? Is that accomplishing anything? I know there are a lot of things I'd have to tweak. But looking for an overall guess on it? Another question. I have a custom 15 gallon universal gas tank installed. There is a hose and what appears to be a vent that attaches above the axle to the underside of the body. Every time I fill it up all the way it leaks like nothing I ain't ever seen before. If i fill it up just about halfway I have no issues. Ideas?
