48Windsor

Yeah, the accelerator pump is my first thought also. It does need to be corrected. But, its being difficult to pinpoint as it seems to vary. I would say it idles fine in neutral, and  it does fine in gear. It seems to die most when at a moving idle. Coming home from a little group gathering today, it up and died after the down shift idling around the driveway to garage. 

My old Windsor 6 cyl fluid drive is getting pretty flakey when moving slowly after the downshift in both high and low range. It will just up and die. Starts right back up. If I feather the accelerator it will go ahead and speed up and shift normally. It only happens when trying to idle along or when I barely touch the accelerator. Could the points in the governor be causing this, or the solenoid or ign interupter?? Its been pretty flawless for two years until now. Its kind of hard to translate whats happening. I've adjusted the about as high as I dare to still get a proper shift

I've read through the troubleshooting stuff, but don't really see anything that addresses this symptom.

On a side note, I've never been happy with the accelerator pump I got in the rebuild kit from Mikes Carb. It never fit tight enough in my opinion and I've always had to feather it when starting out, but have never had a problem with it dying.

Any suggestions welcome. 

Yeah,  I replaced them myself. There are several uTube videos out there that show how to do it by laying the drive shaft on a 2x4, two sockets and a large hammer. Sounds vicious but it works well. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m49STKK4pWY

I thought I would re-visit this with you all on what I ended up doing. I went ahead and bit the bullet and purchased 2 NOS u-joints from Bernbaum. Roberts was out of stock. I figured if it was good for 71 years, it should last the few more years I have it, especially since these are greasable. The old ones are not.

Its been 30+years since I've serviced u-joints but it all went pretty smooth. The cause of the "PING" I was hearing came from the rear u-joint. Fortunately they weren't dry yet and wasn't squeaking. The two caps attached to the drive shaft were starting to wear. Sorry for the poor picture quality but you can see the wear marks on the left side. Both caps were like that but the caps the with the bolts were not wore. The front u-joint was in much better shape but I replaced it also.

Anyway, no more PING when starting out. Cleaned up the drive shaft and we're rolling again. I do need the correct torque setting for the bolts/nuts. According to the manual its somewhere between 18 and 38 ft lbs, I couldn't decipher what? I would suggest dropping the drive shaft and cleaning/greasing these u-joints if the don't have zerks so you don't have the cost of replacement, if you can find  them. Tom B.

Thanks all for the suggestions and comments. Holy Crap Bat Man, that's a lot of $$$. They'ed better helicopter in from wherever they are to good ol  Kansas for that price.  A lot of knowledge out there on the subject. Changing the drive shaft to more modern ujoints seems to be the more prudent  choice. Finding a place around here to do the work would be a challenge. I would need more education on what that all entails. The pic addresses the ball/trunion but what about the rear end?? Are we talkin re-working the whole drive line - rear end,  trunion,  drive shaft or what? I've read some posts that people have opted for this but really no details on how to get there. 

While I figure this out, I'm tempted to try and take the propeller shaft out and clean and grease the ujoints just to get a few more miles out of it. They aren't squeakin yet, only an occasional ping.

Still thinkin,,,,,,,,,,,man that hurts.

Hey fellers, its time I serviced the u-joints on "the Whale". I'm hearing the familiar "PING" every once in a while when starting out. I associate this with a dry u-joint.

I've crawled under it trying to plan my attack and have been reading up on it. My service manual doesn't describe the process in any great detail. Do you have to disassemble 

the park brake to service the front u-joint or do the bolts that hold the u-joint to the tranny companion flanges stay in place once the nuts are removed?  Any tips or suggestions

on servicing this thing is appreciated. Then on to trying to locate replacements.

Thanks

Tom B

I drive mostly 2 lanes in the old girl. When I pass a semi, the hood pops up, thank God for the safety latch. I can see no adjustment for the main hood latch. The cable is nice and lose so it shouldn't be a problem. Any suggestions for making this thing stay where its supposed to??

Thanks

Knuckle, she was actually surprised how easy it turned when moving, the brakes- now that's a different story. She squealed a little bit (and I don't mean the tires) when she went to stop. I told her to just stand on it!

Thanks all.

Tom B

My oldest daughter made it home for Christmas. On a run into town she decided she wanted to  try out the old whale. 

She was pretty proud of herself as was I. Mechanical things tend to petrify her. Made my day!

Looks very nice!. Keep us posted on the conversion.

Dodgeb4ya - Beautiful!

Here's a pic or two. Don't look too closely, its a driver! The interior was redone back in the 80's. Although not original, I believe its similar to original. Recently saw a 47 with the same upholstery only with moth holes in it.

Thanks. No jump seats. As you can probably guess, it was the only Mopar there. Lots of comments and questions

from people

Didn't have anything going on today so decided to run in to a small car show - about 50 cars. The Old Whale got into the Top 10. Heck, I was happy they didn't make me remove it from the lot! About 75 mile round trip. No issues. Celebrated with a pint at a local brewery on the way home. 

Hey fellow Kansan, welcome to the forum. I'm over here in Rossville. I had the same problem with my fluid drive. From what I understand these trannys are pretty bullet proof. Make sure the engine rpms are around 450 or so at idle or it won't shift. But the Gyromatic might be different. Someone will be along with more experience. Might check out this link

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Transmission/index.htm

Tom B

I had the same symptoms. Had the guy that rebuilt my generator check it out. Reg was bad. Replaced and gauge reads steady now. Got mine from The Brillman Company.

Thanks. Kinda makes sense. I believe I remember the previous owner saying he got both a new tank and sender from above company. No wonder it doesn't work. 

I'm not that experienced with trouble shooting electrical stuff. I have a two wire sender on the tank. I have continuity between the center post and the flange, side post and about everywhere on the sender. Seems like the center post should be isolated. Just need to know if that's  correct or if a new fuel sender is next step. Gauge shows empty. Have power to the power wire at the sender for the center post.  I read some trouble shooting info somewhere on here but can't find it again. 

I see Tanks Inc. have a sender for early mopars for $35. 73 ohms empty, 10 ohms full. Anyone used one of these.??

It would be nice to look at the fuel gauge instead of watching mileage. 

Thanks 

TB

Nice! It always feels great when they fire up when leaving the show and you make it back home. Did the same this weekend on a 70 mi. round trip. All was good when I pulled back in the shop, even with the 90 degree heat. 

I just replaced mine. By loosening the screws I was able to raise the cowl vent on my Chrysler to get enough clearance to squeeze in some weather strip adhesive and  slip it in. Put the screws back in, closed the vent to keep is pressed down into the groove. Still staying down nicely

Had mine rebuilt at Terrill Machine De Leon Tx

Well, I went ahead and engineered one, be it right or wrong. I really don't see much need for it. There isn't much space between the hood and radiator anyway. I used "door sweep" rubber. Its fairly pliable. We'll see how it holds up to the heat. I'll give it a shot since I'm not out much. Max, thanks for the tip on a source.

Tom B

I finally found it under Downloads Categories. No Staples. The material is pinched in place in the slots in the metal. Still looking around the shop for some type material to use. . Thanks

Finally got a new camera. Here's a pic of the crusty hood to radiator seal. How important is this? It looks like the original stuff was pretty heavy duty. Guess I'll look around for some type of material to replace.

Has anyone replaced their hood to radiator seal? I haven't found any replacement from Steel Rubber, Andy B, or Roberts. I did a little cleaning up under the hood and the seal of course so crusty and brittle is was useless. Its a metal, two piece affair that attaches to the radiator. The seal is pinched into a few slots in the metal. Sorry, no camera for pics. Just wondering if some type of standard weather  seal would work.

Thanks for any info.

Tom B