Los_Control

My first thought, a pinhole in the line can cause issues ..... the electric fuel pump should point it out quickly. .... I'm not positive a electric pump will overcome a leaky line to make it run ..... it should show the leak though.
 
I'm going to throw a different idea out of left field. ..... When was the last time you got fuel and when did the issue happen?
If you have water in your fuel, it is heavier then gas and goes to the bottom .... then you drive and you mix it all together and it gets passed into your carb ..... It might look like a air bubble coming through the glass filter? .... Just a idea .... It will cause issues that are hard to describe. .... It has been known to happen that a gas station gets fuel delivered with water in it ... by accident, and then there is condensation and other things that could cause it.
 
We used to be able to buy a bottle of HEET at the local gas station for $1, pour it in the gas tank and it enables the heavy water to mix with the gas and it just runs through the system as a lower grade fuel .... then the next time you fill up you have no water and quality fuel ..... In theory.
 
I fought a strange issue for a long time and spent many hours and $$ trying to fix it ..... a $1 bottle of HEET was the cure in the end 6 months later.
If you drain gasoline into a white coffee cup and let it sit. If it has water in it, it will look like a air bubble sitting in the bottom of the cup.
It is possible that is what you are seeing passing through the fuel filter .....
 
Just saying it may not be your issue ..... I see now they switched up the bottle and now is $3 ..... it just wont hurt to try it.
 

In the past I have asked a similar question. Do we need a proportioning valve for this conversion?
I think the general consensus is .... no, if you are running drum brakes all the way around. Yes, if you convert to disk brakes.
 
Further discussions on it, some of the older MC have a proportioning valve built in ..... The Toyota may be one of them ... I have no proof it is.
The only importance to that is ..... The Toyota MC has a single bowl feeding both front & rear .... so I do not know which line should feed front or rear.
Or even if it matters? ..... I figure if my rear brakes work harder or lock up before the front, then I will switch the lines around.
 
Others who have done the conversion using stock drum brakes are happy with it.
I did the same thing with no proportioning valve installed .... they seem to work fine but have not yet driven it on the road.
One problem I ran into was the MC is 10mm threads for the lines, I have 1/4" lines. I had to order a adapter to go from 10mm > 3/16" then another adapter from 3/16">1/4"
 
 

Looks like a old Hill Billy trick I might use when you have a flat cam.
The lobes on the cam is flat and no longer pushes the pump lever far enough to make it work properly.
So you add cam extensions to the fuel pump. To give it more lift. 
 
I wonder if it was someones Grandfather that made that in the garage at home, or if a company actually sold them?
 
I can very easily be wrong here, that is what it looks like to me .... never seen one before.
 
The fuel pumps are still available new, although it would be nice to have a original and have it rebuilt .... almost mandatory to replace or rebuild.
The original rubber will not hold up to todays fuel and soon stop working .... if they do work now.

Problem you run into keeping the stock rear end is cost & maintenance. Finding new brake drums can easily cost $400 each. .... or try and find good used ones.
Probably cost you $75 for a decent drum puller so you can work on them.
Brake shoes, wheel cylinders are all ordered over the internet, nobody stocks them .....
Then there is the old Cleveland u-joints ..... $85 + shipping if you can find them ....
 
Possible you can find a mopar car of that era that has 3:73 gears in it and make something work.
 
You either roll with the stock rear end or go with something more modern.
A Jeep Cherokee or a Ford Explorer, from a local wrecking yard .... choose 3:73 gears .
You will need to relocate the spring perches .... weld new ones on .... modify the drive line to use modern u-joints.
 
Just suggesting it will cost a few bucks to install a modern rear end with pleasant gear ratio .... depends on how much work you can do yourself.
 
Or just keep throwing $$ into the original obsolete rear end.
 
I'm with you ..... My rear end has good brake drums and does not leak .... the low 4:10 gears will work for me. I will keep it for now.
When it is time to start putting $$ into it, I will upgrade it to a modern rear end .... mine is no show truck.
 

When you look at an H    it is the shift pattern for your car, the 2 vertical lines represents the shift rails and the horizontal line is what the gearshift lever uses for a pathway between the rails.
 
You have one gearshift selector in the car, 2 shift linkages connecting it to the transmission.
One linkage selects the gears by moving the gearshift lever forward or backwards.
The other linkage simply selects what shift rail you are on.
 
Working normally, when in neutral you lift up on the gearshift to get to the reverse/1rst shift rail.
Pulling it back into neutral, there is a internal spring inside the transmission that pulls it back to the other shift rail.
This is all one linkage does, when you lift up on the gearshift & let it go back with the spring ... that is the full function of that linkage. Moves from one rail to the other.
 
the 2nd linkage simply goes forwards & backwards selecting the gears depending what rail you are on.
 
The tricky part is, Both the arms on the transmission have 3 positions. forward, middle, back. They both move together.
If one arm gets moved out of sync with the other .... you need to manually put them back into sync. Or it will not work.
 
IIRC, you should be able to correct this from under the hood, just by looking at your shift linkage and aligning them.
Take one shift linkage and push it all the way down, then move it up one click. to the middle position.
Then do the same thing with the other linkage ..... you should now be in sync and working again. ...... Might be easier to crawl under it and do it from there. I dunno.
 
 
This only happens when you mess with the linkage, or if you have worn out improperly adjusted linkage .... it is a common thing though.
Riding with a buddy years ago in his 68 camaro 4spd we got ran off the road and bottomed out in a ditch .... moved his linkage out of sync, had to crawl under it and fix it.
Nothing unusual to see here and a simple fix.
 
 
 
 

I would guess there will be a possible noticeable difference  in noise .... quieter gears with modern tooth cutting. Less play on the yoke.  Better brakes. I know Lockheed brakes are superior if adjusted properly. ..... Takes lots of maintenance to keep them up .... modern self adjusting brakes that possibly are larger then the original will be quite good. Far easier to maintain with available parts ..... Same story with using modern u-joints ..... It is a improvement in my opinion, unless you are going for a 100 point restoration.
 
You have not changed the suspension so your ride will not change.

Howdy, a jeep cherokee or a Ford explorer is the correct width and have the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern to use the stock wheels. Readily available in wrecking yards.
They come in a variety of gear choices ...... 3:73 seems to be the sweet spot for a stock engine/transmission.
While others claim a 3:55 works great ..... they usually have some high performance mods or maybe a T-5 transmission swap also .... 3:73 is a very safe choice if you have some hills in your normal driving. .... Or of course a 4.10 gear like the original will work fine.
 
You will need to cut off the spring perches and weld on new ones to match your factory springs. Not to bad of a job if you have a welder .... you do want to set the pinion angle also while at it.
Also you may need to modify the u-joints on your drive line .... original would have had Cleveland u-joints .... your photo is a standard u-joint .... I assume your drive line already has been modified.
Over all it is not a difficult swap and done a million times.
 
Check the years on the donor vehicles, older ones will have drum brakes while newer have gone to disk brake rear end. .... Choose what you want.
Also a good idea if you can grab all the E-brake cables & brackets you can from the donor vehicle, can modify and connect to your e-brake handle ....  If you do a transmission swap down the road, you will need these parts to get a working e-brake ..... thinking ahead can save future headaches.

Not a great picture.... You can get the general idea.  Basically just a flat plate .... maybe 16 gauge? Has the ends folded over to ad rigidity. And welded to the floor pan.
I figure you can get the measurements of where to put it from your truck ...... If you need measurements let me know.
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

I know I suggested to add water to it so you could hear it run and let it warm up .... then if you found any more leaks you could fix them before adding coolant.
That was several weeks ago while you still had time to work on it.
 
Seems like that time has passed, I would not be adding antifreeze until after I checked with plain water that there were no more leaks.
I would not be adding plain water if the temps are below freezing ...... so I would just leave it dry at this point.
 
I'm in the same boat right now. I've been messing with mine, I had to pull the radiator out ... I put a new water pump on it while I was there .... I pulled the heater out because I need to paint it .... still not done that yet.  I needed to move the truck to get access to the carport, driveway .... looks like I have a leak somewhere but cant tell where.
 
I just do not have time to work on it right now, so will be draining the block and let it sit dry, until I do have time to work on it.
 

As a retired carpenter, I just took a hammer & nail  and cleared the carbon out. ....... BAD IDEA!
Just use a small pilot drill and drill through it .... then go up a step and remove more .... clean the carbon out of the hole.
 
Drilling it out will turn it into a powder that gets sucked out of the exhaust valve .... punching it out with a hammer & nail will produce a hard chunk of carbon that will get stuck in the exhaust valve when you start it.
 
 
The hole is there for you to use, over years of use it fills up with carbon. .... Just be cautious how you remove it.

People have been using both metal & plastic gas cans since the automobile has been invented.
Static electricity is certainly a possibility  I'm 61 years old, never in my lifetime had I seen or heard of a gas can igniting from static electricity.
Under normal use as a temporary fuel source on a vehicle. ...... I'm not saying it is impossible .... just not very likely.
My plastic gas can is sitting on my front bumper, using metal tie wire ran through the grill to hold it steady.
 
I watch a youtube channel JohnathanW ... His job is a tow company that hauls, does recovery for the state/county cleaning up accidents on the roads. Including semi trucks.
He builds his own wreckers and has since he was a very young man decades ago. He has built Hot Rods from scratch owns many rare old cars.
Last week I watched him start up a 55 Studebaker, he just put the motor back together no gas tank yet. .... He used a plastic can on the cowl.
 
Youtube is a very tough crowd, if you do anything wrong someone will call you out on it and tell you the proper way .... Even if they are right or wrong.
Almost entertaining just reading some of the comments after a video. ..... Nobody ever complains about using a plastic can on the cowl for a temporary fuel source.
It is simply accepted practice by tradesmen.
 
Cutting, grinding, welding on a gas tank is dangerous .... static spark from a tank is possible I suppose under certain circumstances ..... would it be enough to light the fuel? Probably not. .... If the spark was in just the right spot at the right time & was unusually large .... possible it would light the can.
It's also possible a airplane will crash into my house killing me ..... about the same chances.
 
Just my opinion on it ..... best not to make something out of nothing.

What I have on my gauge end side is a square nut & is 5/8" .... you wont get a flare wrench to fit a square nut.
The insert going into the head is brass ..... 3/4 is to small .... 7/8 is pretty loose. .... Old brass that is wore out? Maybe .... or they did have some strange sizes back then.
 
Pretty sure I just used a quality crescent wrench to remove mine .... maybe even a pipe wrench? I do not remember but it came out with no fuss.
 
Not sure why you want to remove it .... if you have a limited amount of tools available .... you may want to wait until you get it home where you have more tools to work on it?
 
Just not seeing why you would want to remove it when you are not prepared for it .... could turn into something bigger then planned on.

I'm not familiar with the Bronco rear end, there are many rear ends that would work.
The two most common choices are the Ford explorer & the Jeep cherokee.
The explorer from the 1990's have the 8.8 which is pretty stout, would easily handle the HP  of the hemi, they are the correct width for your vehicle & have the same wheel bolt pattern. They have a long list of gear choices. ..... What gear choice are you looking for?
I had a 1996 explorer sport that had 4:10 gears & would make a excellent Hot Rod choice.
Or maybe you would want some 3:08 .... 3:55 for highway cruising? .... Jeep or Explorer would have them.
My 1996 had rear disk brakes, a older model would have drum brakes .... again what do you want?
 
Something I think is often overlooked, when you grab the rear end try and get all the E-brake cables & brackets to go with it .... they can be adapted to work for you.
Just cheaper easier to get what works with the rear end then trying to piece it together later.
 
Again I do not know about the Bronco Rear end, maybe it is the same 8.8 as the Explorer?

That is a plug to locate tdc of #6 piston. .... 1 & 6 both are tdc at same time, while one is compression stroke other is exhaust stroke.
 
They will fill up with carbon ..... use a nail & hammer & punch it out While you have the head off.
 
I punched mine out with the head on, then when I started it the carbon chunk got caught in the exhaust valve seat & sounded terrible until it was pushed out through the exhaust ..... I would not recommend or do it again myself ..... maybe drill it out into small powder.

Time is money, I have more time then money. Having the brackets already made is well worth it.
 
I read a review someone did on the cheap generic wiring harness's available.
His qualifications, He works at or owns a shop that builds Hot Rods .... he has used all of the brand name wiring harness & he could nit pic little things about all of them.
He had a project where he wanted to try one of the cheaper generic wiring harness ....
His end results was, The wire grade was acceptable, the fuse box will work .... he was satisfied with it for that project .... shop truck? He would use them again.
Not in a $50k Hot Rod, but on a project appropriate for the cost.
 
I bought a cheap $50 harness from Amazon .... I agree with the guy with what I have seen. It is decent wire, well connected to the box, not going to fall apart.
We can make this work dependably.
 
My issues with it would be different then yours. ...... I have a truck with a stomp starter (no starter system) vacuum wipers. Very basic wiring needs.
My goal was to de-pin the connectors from the box & wire it the way I wanted.
Cheap box, the wires are in there to stay .... thats a good thing .... unless you want to modify it.
It has 2 relays for turn signals & 4 way flashers ..... I can not use as is, can not move the wires around ..... I can cut, splice new wiring though.
The box is labeled with a sticker, ..... it is wrong & does not match the way the box is wired. .... pull the sticker off, the lid is stamped, I saw sun roof ... does not match our cars.
But the box & wiring will work. ..... You just need to pay attention & wire your car correctly, label as you go.
 
The fuses are so cheap, when I pull one out, they box is tight and grabs the prongs of the fuse ... the plastic fuse cover pulls off ... you need pliers to remove the prongs individually. ...... You need to replace the fuses with a known quality brand .... I imagine the relays also .... Box & wiring is solid though.
They have lots of wire .... I'm excited about that ..... Hard to buy that amount of different colored automotive wire for $50.
I'm cutting out my box, creating a custom box using the wire .... again can use as is.
 
Just saying, you can use the cheaper generic wiring harness .... you will need to work for it .... name brand will be easier.
I've decided I'm cutting the wire loose & building a custom fuse block I can modify as needed ....
If you can find a wiring harness made for your vehicle You are golden ... I personally will build one that fits me.
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

(SAE 75W-90, SAE 80W-90, SAE 85W-140 etc.). The first number of the designation specify the oil viscosity at cold temperature, the second number specifies the oil viscosity at high temperature.
 
So if your transmission calls for 80-90 .... 85-140 .... not quite 80 in cold temps, a little thicker .... the 140 is just how high the oil will perform under high heat.
It will out performs 80-90
 
 
EP oils may be either mineral or synthetic base. They contain EP additives, rust and oxidation inhibitors, anti-foaming agents and demulsifiers. The viscosity of EP oils according to the ISO grading system is between 68 to 1500.
 
Use the chart below, The higher the GL, the more protection you will get.
 
Designation of gear oils by performance
American Petroleum Institute (API) established a performance grading system for gear oils (mostly automotive gear oils). According to the system gear oils are designated by the letters GL (Gear Lubricant) followed by a number 1,2,3,4 or 5:
GL-1 GL-1 gear oil has rust and oxidation protection effect but it does not contain extra pressure (EP) additives. the oil is used in low load applications only.
GL-2 GL-2 gear oil contain more additives than GL-1, but without EP effect. It is used in medium loaded worm gears.
GL-3 GL-3 gear oil possesses light EP effect. It is used in non-hypoid gears.
GL-4 GL-4 gear oil possesses moderate EP effect. It is most widely used oil.
GL-5 GL-5 gear oil possesses high EP effect. It is used in hypoid and other highly loaded gears.
 
 
This is how I make up my mind, I want to use the best oil I can for a reasonable price.
I'm using 85-140 GL-5 from walmart for $25 per gallon & smiling about it.

Obviously a truck is different, but mine has a factory bullet connector down by the steering box .... so unplug it there & pull it out ..... I would guess cars would be similar.
 
Will be a bit of a pain to fish it back through ... probably need some wire to pull the wire back through.

I think someone somewhere can give you the exact answer .... Long story short, you just need to try it & see.
@Booger makes a good point on counting the the bolts to see if they are the same.
Another issue could be the axle shaft diameter & spline count ..... Possible your axles will not fit this hogs head.
 
I remember back when I was 25 years old, swapping one out in a hour or so on a 1960's dodge truck without a tapered axle in a hour or so.
Only suggesting it is very likely it will work because how close they are .... small chance it wont work .... in 1 hour or so you can find out.
 
No idea why you want to change them. 4.1 is what my truck has, great around the town or farm, 50mph probably top speed stretching it. Good for a race car in a 1/4 mile track.
The 3.9 is better for highway use .... maybe 60 mph? .... I dunno but more highway friendly then a 4.1.

You will find as many opinions on oil as you will find forum members.
 
My opinion on oil is that any oil made today is far superior to what was available when these cars were built.
 
Non detergent oil had it's own problems causing sludge in engines.
It is considered bad news to switch to detergent oil if you have been using non detergent ..... will loosen the sludge as it cleans the engine, the sludge can get picked up in the oil pump screen blocking oil flow.
 
Just saying, I want a detergent oil.  While I work on my truck I only drive it in the yard so far. I have changed my oil 3 times with 10-30 Castrol GTX.
Before I hit the highway, I will drop the pan and clean the sludge. I have no clue what the previous owner used though ... may be no sludge.
 
The past year I have stopped using Castrol oil. Seems to be a good oil. The way they make it, products they use .... the oil always looks dirty.
This pissed me off because I literally drive 4k-6k miles per year .... I change oil spring & fall twice a year, never gets 3k miles on the oil .... always dirty.
 
I switched to walmart super tech brand oil. Sounds cheesy .... super tech in my area is made by Mobil one. Exact same oil just package for walmart & sold for a cheaper price.
Real happy with it so far, been a few months since I changed oil on my daily driver & it looks clean.
 

If it is stainless steel trim and you have it, good chance someone can save it.
My ss grill bars on my truck were smooshed flat. In a couple hours messing around I was able to get them looking pretty good.
If it is not something you want to do yourself, maybe find a old school body and paint shop, one with a older worker that remembers this type of work .... They will enjoy fixing it.
It can be welded, hammered out and polished.
This may be your best choice if you actually have the original trim.

This makes sense to me.
I bought the same radio with same bracket. In my truck there is nothing close enough to mount the bracket to.
I believe I will need to make a bracket to mount it to the firewall.
 
Possibly this is why the poster brought up the steering column bracket, thinking the radio would mount to it.
 
Just did a quick trial fit, that bracket as is, is worthless to mount the radio in the truck.
Should be simple enough to fabricate one though. Is a tight fit to get the radio in there.