Kool48

Thanks Fernando. That's a great pic. I don't have that in my manual. But I'm not using that lower part anyways. Mine has a block plate on it. I'm running dual headers.

The cloth wrapped ground wire that's screwed to vacum advance plates.

Finally found my issue. After lots of worries and frustrations. The ground wire ( clothed wrap) wire. Looked fine. Was gonna make new anyway. Running outta things to look for. So completely ( minus shaft ) disassembled the dizzy and cleaned and ran all new hardware. Ended up being the ground wire on plate. Wire inside of jacket was burnt or burning. Had some black on ends. Anyway. Repaired put back together. Car is running as should. Very smooth , k thought i was going crazy there for a bit. Car has been down well over a month. Over a simple small wire connection. Just goes to show. Don't over look anything. I'm happy now though. You bet ya. I'm glad I didn't pull head. Have 18 "s of vacum now timing is 6 degrees BTDC.

Well after resealing my intake / exhaust and carb. Plus 're ran the valves for the 3 rd time. Looks like I need to pull head. May be weak springs. So my intents are to replace springs. Lap valves.

Thanks for the Iimfo,. Yes it could be grey not silver. That's just what the seller put in the item description. So now I know. I appreciate it .

I've searched around here but haven't found anything other than pics. My question what is the difference between the black springs and silver springs. I believe all 12 springs are the same for the 218 flathead. But I've found a set that has 11 black and 1 silver sealed power brand. The only thing I can think of ,is the different colors would help with knowing which valve you working on ? Thanks.

This is exactly where I'm at with mine. #1 is my issue.

When you say pour in can. Are you talking about the marvel mystery oil ? If so how much ? Size of can that is.

Don I didn't use a dollar at the exhaust tips. But did use s pieces of paper. The drivers side is very consistent and sound mellow. The pass side will poof (pop) the paper or your hand. You can definitely tell a huge difference. Doesn't suck the paper in though

Will do.

I'll post tomorrow compression test. Engine warmed up carb opened. Never thought about the seafoam or mystery oil. That would be great if it freed up the valve. I'd be happy as hell lol. Never used either. How to go about using it ?

Well here's the latest as of tonight. Got my new distributor cap on. Checked everything again. I'm gonna keep this short. I pulled and checked eacn wire with my Fluke for resistance all good. Pulled all plugs checked for resistance and shorts. All good. Ran engine here in drive. Still have the pop sound from either 1,2,or 3. I say that because I have headers and the sound is Only on passenger side exhaust. So. I started pulling wires off spark plugs while engine running. #1 cylinder is my problem. You really don't hear a difference in the engine when it's off. And yes I pulled plug and checked for spark with engine running. And there is plenty of spark. Engine doesn't smoke. I'm leaning towards the intake valve not putting fuel in #1 cylinder. I have a thermal temp gun. I put the red light right at top near flange of each exhaust tube. Only # 1 is low. I mean like 200 degrees difference from the other 5. It's either bad luck on me or I'm completely lost here. Car ran excellent before. Now just all of a,sudden this. Any suggestions. I am going to do another compression test tomorrow. But I'm betting on #1 intake valve? Engine sounds good wants to pull good. But has that miss. And I believe it's #1 intake. ?

Very nice. Keep us posted. And more pics to. Enjoy.

No. I've got the mandrel from another set of wires i made for my 31. So yes I'm gonna buy universal fit wires and make my own up. Got me a cap , should be here tomorrow. Got one with the brass inserts . Hopefully that gets me going again. Seem as if I'm chasing my tail lol

I've been searching here and haven't came across this yet. Question. What is the correct OEM part # for the vacuum advance that is on my distributor. IAP-4103A-1. It's in my 1948 special deluxe. But is this the correct dizzy for the 48 ? I did see a post saying that dizzy# is 1949-1950? Thanks

Which ones. I can't find anything . Would it be the AL-130 ?

Don , I came home tonight and within 5 mins found that #3 plug wire had a issue. Just doing a visual I was pulling each wire and checking them. Well the end that goes into the cap , the wire didn't have the metal terminal on it. It must have gotten broke off during all this madness and I didn't catch it. So now I'm searching for new cap and wires. Called local parts stores , well you know how that goes. Question,. What years cap , rotor , wires will work on my 1948 218. I'm wanting to get theses ordered ASAP but don't wanna order the wrong parts. Thanks.

I'm looking for s new cap for my 1948 Plymouth 218 6 cylinder. Would it be the same ?thanks.

Thanks Chris. I don't think the fuel type is my issue as this issue wasn't an issue prior to all the changes lately. I think I'm getting very close. It's gotta be something simple. After work thisevening I'm gonna check out my wires.

.030 right now. Misses just pulling out of drive and taking off. Like valves popping. But never did that before all this work. So I have something off somewhere.

Gonna double check them tomorrow. But at idle, it sounds good and responds great. Just under load does it act up. But I'll go back a double check wires tomorrow evening.

Timing set to highest vacuum in these pics , as well as carb adjusted The white paint mark is TDC

Well the my vacuum gauge was off. I'll try to post pics. Mine will be to the left. Along with a couple shots of the difference between the 2 while checking vacuum. I simply over looked it. But I did manage to repair mine now . The timing is ok and I can pretty much put it where ever I want now. The vacuum I got up to 17 inches at idle and the timing around 6 degrees BTDC . I took out for test drive. , it doesn't surge no more it's running like it has a miss . You can tell it wants to run strong but there's a popping like a miss in it. I regapped the plugs to .030. No change. I played with timing a bit during the test run. No difference no matter what as far as the missing or lack of ? I know the carb isn't plugged. I know my timing can be adjusted to be right. Now I'm leaning towards fuel supply. It does seem to be running lean.

Central Illinois USA lol