WarriorDog

Got the truck inside yesterday and started on the front end.

I bought the window channel, the window sweeps and new sweeper clips all from Roberts Window channel. 1 piece is for 1 door. I just put it in and didn't even bother with trimming off the excess inside the doors. I think there are a few threads on the "how to" if you use the search function. The left door was a cinch as I'm right handed. The right door was awkward trying to do things inside the door panel with my left hand and arm, since my doors are still on the vehicle. I had to do this while seated on the running boards. I used some black urethane in a tube to adhere the window channel in the upper parts of the door. There are some clips at the top but they didn't seem to do much good holding the channel in place. So I used the urethane, got the channels in the correct position, then rolled the windows shut and allowed the urethane to dry. No rattles now. It's a good time to clean the gunk and build up off the regulators and do a really good lube job while you have that stuff apart. Window channel http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/window-channel-without-chrome-dodge-truck-1928-1961-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-1928-1970-1 Window sweep. This is one piece that will do both doors. There's enough to do 4 doors with this one piece. http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/window-sweeper-without-chrome-dodge-truck-1928-1961-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-1928-1970-1 Sweeper clips. there's 5 on each door. http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/sweeper-clip-dodge-truck-1928-1953-1 Roberts did NOT have the clips referenced above for the window channel to the regulator.

OK Thanks

Excellent information Thanks. Once you drilled through the spot welds, did the angle strips just kind of fall off? I can see lots of corrosion all up and down the strips. Almost like the strips are continuously welded all the way up the bed sides. Guess I'll have to start tearing the strips off to see?

I haven't even opened the shipping tube the strips arrived in, yet. Maybe I need to do that this weekend. Any suggestions on attaching the side edge strips to the bed sides? How to remove the existing edge strips? Grind gently? I thought about just grinding off the old and using a carriage bolt with an acorn nut on the outside of the bed to attched the edge rails. I can weld them on but then there's the issue of having a coating on them , specifically the back sides of the edge rails, that wont rust through.

The tank is the one from TanksInc.com and along with the sending unit it was right at $300. It is the one for earlier vehicles and I think I'll have to mock up a mounting bracket since this one is 2 or 3 inches shorter than the original. It might not be a perfect fit, but, It's new, it's another thing I wont have to revisit (probably) in my lifetime. Get it done while I've got it apart and be done with it. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd349.htm I have the bumpers being straightened and powder coated. The powder coat is "rust' colored and will be cleared over. I'll see how it turns out and then decide if I want that on the wheels too. Brackets for the rear are being powder coated in flat black along with a couple of other parts like the tailgate hinges and a few more things. I'm not trying to take it to original but want the things I have apart done so that I never have to fool with them again. New Brake lines, New fuel line, rear end and disc brake conversion all while I've got apart now. It's much easier to access some of this stuff with everything off the chassis.

I don't work for this company nor am I endorsing them as a parts supplier. Email was sent to Restoration Specialties and they replied with a positive response. I couldn't find the part in their catalog. However, I did get this back from them. Just for future reference in case someone else needs the info. The part number is 11964 @ $1.25 each.

Mar - K

Parts are beginning to pile up in the garage. Got a rear end out of a 2000 Cherokee from a local parts guy for $100 today.

I stripped the front brakes out down to the spindles and left it at that so I can still roll the chassis around until the disc brake conversion kit and parts get here. I'm taking it to a friends house to put the disc brakes on. He's got a machine shop in his garage and the tools to do the work on the spindles. The backing plates were in really good shape. The brake shoes fell apart when I pulled the drums. Shoe metal is rusted. Wheel cyclinders and all the other bolts were easy to get out. No heat required for anything - yet. I'm going to go ahead and replace the kingpins while it's apart, too. I just put the drums back on so it will roll off the trailer easily when needed.

Gas Tank, sending unit and all the bed strips are here.

I got the window channels and window sweeps installed last week. I broke one of these. Restoration Specialties has them. The part number at Restoration Specialties is 11964 @ $1.25 each.

Lots of parts coming in over the past few weeks. Got the head resurfaced.

Gas tank is NOT GOOD

Got the front end and bed off today.

I got the engine out of the 53 Plymouth out of my truck on Thursday. Spent most of the day stripping the block. We turned the engine and heard the compression from the cylinders. Put a battery to the starter and the engine turns. Put some fuel in the carb and started the engie for about 12 seconds. No knocks or anything unusual. So we stripped everything off the engine and made a list of parts to get for replacing. I'm taking the flywheel and head to have machined before reassembly. http://vid296.photobucket.com/albums/mm187/WarriorDog/20170217_124351_zpsu2ejsbmt.mp4

I can get rid of the rust. I have a friend with a powder coat business that I use frequently. He can sandblast them and get the rust off. Just trying to think about what coating/colors to put back once the rusty / white paint is gone? Maybe a bronze patina color powder coat? I'm not set on anything yet. I'm just seeking some input/suggestions for the bumpers, wheels, maybe the 3 grill strips, the parking light rings, headlight rings, etc. I thought seriously about replacing the front bulkhead bed panel and tailgate with something from Mar-K. If I do that then I'll need to get some coating/color on the bare metal. Ideas? I want to shout out a Thank You to GGDad for offering some of his spare parts up for sale. I've been told by quite a few people, other than just here, to leave the body/paint alone. And I'm leaning that way. Just not sure how it will look with old paint on the body and new colors/coatings on wheels, bumpers, etc.

What about those bumpers?

I've thought about leaving the paint alone. What would you guys do with the wheels? Bumpers? Lots of rust showing on the white wheels and bumpers. Leave them, too? The black paint doesn't really have the rust colored patina that most find appealing. And the rusty white parts just dont quite fit in my opinion.

Yeah, I'm gonna swap the pan that's in the truck now with the one on the new engine. Should have said "Swapped out". Thanks fellas, for the input. Much appreciated. I've got the hood off and the front end is completely unbolted. I'm gonna set the front end off inside the fenced backyard tonight and then get a sawhorse type stand for the bed to rest on for removal this weekend. Not planning on removing the cab. I'm just trying to make it easier to get to the brakes, rear end, suspension and gas tank with the front and rear removed. It doesnt have any brake pedal pressure at the moment. Gotta pull the drums and see if they're reuseable and just replace if the wheel cylinders and master cylinder while it's apart, etc. I really dont want to put a lot of money into getting it roadworthy. Brakes, tires, shocks, gas tank, replace wood bed, redo the door glass felt etc. I worked for UPS for 38 years and retired 2 years ago. Wifey and I have opened a clothing boutique in Chattanooga TN and we want to use the truck for advertising and photo background prop for our store. Probably wont drive it 400 miles a year. I'll probably paint it with some hot rod flat black and have wheels and some parts powder coated in a flat low lustre gold accent. I want to get the store name along with Facebook and Instagram logos on the doors and bed and make it look like it's a 50 year old store truck. Any suggestions on a rust inhibitor to apply to the frame while it's apart?

I tried to free up the engine with no success. I found a used 218 from a 53 Plymouth Cranbrook close by and got a transmission with it. The new engine has a newly built Electronic ignition distributor and already converted to 12 volt charging system. I'm taking the new engine to a friends house this weekend to make sure it runs and has good compression. I'll leave it at his house until I'm ready to install it. Gonna go ahead and replace all the gaskets while it's out. Get the oil pan flipped around and replace the Water pump etc.

Got this truck last summer under the impression it had been running recently. That wasn't the case. Finally got some time to get started on it in the past few weeks. The day I brought it home Surface rust under the doors Dash is in good shape. Original key still unlocks the passenger door. Floor boards are in good shape too

Yes, I found it. "Search" is my friend, right? Thanks