TomP

Thanks Merle, this one spent most of it's life in Utah in and around Tooele, it was 1 of 601 built in the LA plant. Rust is an enemy to us all here in the UK is one of the worst, bare metal rusts for a past time. I did have some bolts that sheared straight off with very little pressure they will have to be drilled out and unscrewed with the easy-outs.

Surprised me how quick you can pull one of these down, only a couple of hrs work there so far, first I removed the front hood anchor plate lift all 4 sections off the hood in 1. Remove the inner splash shields, then pull the radiator followed by the L/H fender and remove the bolts of the R/H fender, the rad shell tie rods were already removed. Remove all the bolts holding the top half rad shell and grille together, please bear in mind that the truck is in a shipping container, tight against the right hand side. My other 2 are in my workshop where I spend most of my free time.

Thanks Charlie but the T142 will do what I need, something to move it about on and off the trailer etc. price of fuel is possible 4 times what you pay so it wont be doing a lot of miles.

After getting used to my 41 truck it's time to start tearing it down read to make it good for the next 76 years. Couple of threads that relate to my previous work on this truck "Got me a 41 Truck" and "T142 engine"

Looking at Ed's build and knowing what I have in my stores I am wondering if there is any advantage of adding servo assisted master cylinder, I am a great believer n staying as stock but safety is a big issue and would the effort be worth the gain.Thanks

Ignor my last post, went to my workshop and checked. Thanks again for your help

Are these L shaped mounts still available, I have nothing on the housing or the frame?

The de-coke is almost finished and I've started to think of what lies ahead, couple of thing spring to mind Do these engine units come under the Floating Power banner. The front mounting has the vulcanized rubber mounting on the mounting bracket. What happens at the back end, we have the wide bell housing that bolt to the frame rails but should there be any shock absorbsion between these mountings. Perhaps I'm overthinking it but I already have a 33 PD Coupe and that has 2 Rubber mounts on the beam above the bell housing. Many thanks guys

Thanks for the offer Jerry at the moment the dizzy is not now my main concern and as it fired I will leave it for the time being. Moving on , now undergoing a full decoke, several valves didn't shut so compression was almost zero surprising that it fired at all. The valves have gone to my local engine builder to regrind the seats, not sure if I can recut the block myself as the cast iron must have work hardened over the years, the inlets cur well but I don't get the bite needed to cut the exhausts. I'm able to use a pneumatic valve lapper which might help. I need to get a 6 Volt Battery that I can maintain with a trickle charger, what size should I be looking for, ideally I would swap this between car for now, need to know what AH rating I should be looking for I can get 165, 120 & 80, the 165 is 13 1/4" long x 7" wide x9 1/2" Tall Including posts. Thanks for your help.

Thanks gents , that gives me something to chew over, will check out why I have low compression Friday, will try not to burden you Mark but good to know I can if need be . This engine /trans doesn't owe me lot so can afford a few £s to get my 41 PT125 movable, I just don't want to drop it in the engine bay without getting it going . As far as ethanol we are moving from E5 to E10 but the time frame is blurred, in Europe it's been E10 from the beginning with a threat of another 2 1/2%, The biker boys hate it, but the idiots know what their doing don't they.

I have a 1948/9 engine that I am having a few issues with, to start with the distributor has been messed with and I think it would be better to purchase an assembly similar to photo 1. The petrol pump is not playing so I suspect the diaphragm is beyond it's sell by date. Can you please supply me with part #s and a good source of supply, I am in the UK but expect to buy from the States. Thank you in advance for you help

This is on a T142 1948 engine hope this helps. Thanks

Think I'm having to go for a new set, my distributor is Auto-Lite 1233564, if I can get it, would go for assembly as above, could you see if you can find a part # and where I might go for one Jerry, might be able to get one in the U.K. but if I google that # it takes me to electronic conversions. Thanks

OK I will give that a try, the moving point is free to revolve must just need a little leverage to get it sliding up the post, WD40 type spray. Thought it was a bit stubborn and didn't want to force it, easier to first thanks.

Hi Jerry, my problem is that can't get the moving point off of the vertical post it seams to be riveted to the post as indicated in the photo, do I have to buy the complete plate assembly or can I just get the points and fit them to what I already have. The points open and close no problem.

Hi Jerry got back to working on the engine trans today, the pedal shafts fits like a glove and the pedal assembly goes together as it should, will get some photos next time I'm at my unit. Thank you. Next problem, on the distributor the points look to be riveted over to prevent the nylon follower lifting, question is do I have to remove the basement plate complete and replace it. Engine no. T142x9005x Hoping to run it up while strapped the pallet before starting the big clean. Thanks for your help gents.

The photobucket link is not working for me?

Thank you for the heads up, have left him a message.

I am told I need a Ammco 1750 setting tool for the 3 Plymouths I am rebuilding, being in the U.K. it's something I should buy to speed the wheel building process up . Any leads would be useful. Thanks

Agree with Jerry, the fingers have a curve on them, had the been straight I could have turned it around the other way but thinking about that the key way would also been 180 deg. out. The other shaft I have from the car bell housing looks a little short. From 7000 miles away your spare shaft is what I need Jerry.

Hi Jerry thank you for the offer, at the moment I'm lost without one, I would guess that the sizes don't change much on that type of spare, the engine is T142x9005x which is 1948/9 according to the registry. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html Should make you aware I'm in the UK if your happy with that email/pm me and we can take it from there. It would be great to get this truck under power, I'm not intending doing a lot to it just get it safe and running to get it through our MoT regs.

Your right Ed but it sticks out on th wrong side ie must be a RHD bell housing, so I've either got to find a left hand housing or do some clever adaption to what I now have. The next photos show the left hand side of the housing and another one I have for the 34 I'm working on.

Ed can you put me right on the bell housing on this other trans we spoke about sometime back, had a closer look and I think from your photo this one in the UK is right hand drive, If I'm correct the shaft that operates the thrust bearing is on the R/H side.

Hi Jamie, I'm in North Devon where a bouts are you.

We all need a little luck now and again, here's mine from last wk.