doogan

Thanks Jeff, that will get me going. Don

This is a 1949 B-1 Pilot House pickup. I am finishing up with a complete restoration and hit a couple of snags. First: After a new wiring harness and bulbs all the lights work except the parking lights. After testing from the light socket back there is no power leaving the lights switch at the parking light post. Am I missing something or should there be power at this post when the light switch knob is pulled out to the first notch? Second: I started putting new glass back and all installed except the door glass. These have the vent window and door glass. Is there anything that is used to hold the glass in the channel as well as the vent glass in its frame? Does the vent glass go in first or after the door glass? Then there is a part called "run" which had a weather strip stuff in it that I can't figure what goes in it. I am looking at the exploded view of the window regulator and runs shown in the truck parts list page 23-12. Third What holds the fuzzy weather strip along the opening which the window comes up through? Is it just attached with weather strip glue? This is a lot of questions but I want to get it right the first time. Thanks in advance guys. Don

Hey guys just finished the painting of my B1. Was wondering if the DODGE inscription on tailgate should be painted another color? If so is there any supplied that carries the DODGE decal? Should be on the road in a month or so I hope. Thanks Don

My 49 B1 pickup 218 engine had a shield mounted to the top of the fuel pump with the top corner under the manifold nut. The new fuel pump doesn't have a threaded hole on top for the shield stud to mount into. Is the mount at the manifold nut enough to hold in place or is there another way to keep this shield in tack? Thanks Don

Well I opted to use the POR-15 product instead of a new tank. My tank didn't actually leak and was in great shape on the outside for its age. Better than I can say for myself !!!! It seems to be working fine as I've had it full of fuel for a week now and no leaks. After cleaning out by first putting in a gallon of new fuel, sloshing around, dumping into a container and straining the crud out this was done several times. Once the rinsing gas seemed to come out without much crud the tank was filled half way with hot water and some dishwashing detergent. Again some sloshing around, pour out and repeat several times until all looked clean. Next I dropped in a small length of chain like for a swing and turned the tank over and over several times, more hot water and detergent, remove the chain and dry out the tank with a heat gun. Following the instructions with the POR-15 all went well and now back in the truck and seems to work great. A word of caution.........USE GLOVES, yes USE GLOVES. I did after getting some of the sealer on my hands but too late. NOTHING will remove that stuff as I tried everything in the garage and house from paint thinner to brillo pads. But if you are like me and prefer to not use gloves it will wear off in 3-4 days. Good luck and thanks guys!

In the process of restoring my 49 B1 I thought I was finished with the running gear until..........................Got the chassis and running gear all rebuilt and installed then cranked up the engine. All was great until crud appeared in the fuel filter bowl. Power down and removed the tank. After dumping the fuel out, add some new fuel and dump again there was a double handful of what looked like some rust particles. After several of these rinses it seems nothing else is coming out. Now, has anyone used these sealers I see advertised on various sites? Do they work? Should I go this route or would I be better off finding and installing a new tank? About all I have seen new are up to 1948. Will these work on the 1949? Being relatively new to the Mopar restoration I am finding it difficult locating a tank for the 49. Thanks in advance guys.

Thanks guys I will be back out there this weekend and give that a whirl and let you know the results.

Well I got my 218 back from the shop after a complete rebuild. Now it is back on the B1 chassis and will crank up but.......only if I remove the hold down screw from the distributor and turn distributor counter clockwise enough for the screw hole to be covered with the top portion for the distributor slotted mount flange. I have removed distributor twice and checked the point gap and it is set at 20. Again, it will try cranking up with screw holding dist down and adjusted counter clockwise as far as allowed by the slot but just not take off. Remove the screw and turn the dist a little farther counter clockwise and off she goes. Number 1 plug wire is at the 7 o'clock position of the cap. The engine ran fine before rebuild but smoked. Is there something I'm missing or doing wrong? Firing order 153624, no 1 plug wire at 7 o'clock position on distributor cap all this on a 218 B1 engine.

Merle that is exactly what it is and your picture is exactly what I would have posted, if I knew how!!!!! So since it is a truck I can plug this hole as the dip stick goes in the oil pan on the truck. Oh by the way, can this core plug be bought at the local auto supply? Great not to be bumfuzzeled any longer. THANKS guys!

Well I am completely bumfuzzeled. I got my 49 engine back from having it completely rebuilt and while putting everything back on it I found an extra hole. On the left side of the engine, in front of the starter the oil lines connect, one above the other. In front of them is a hole without any threads. What is used to plug this. I looked a pictures before it was taken to the shop and it seems to have had some type of plug in it which has been removed. I called the shop and of course got no where. I placed a screw driver into this and it goes directly into the lower crankcase. Since there isn't much pressure here could gasket sealer be used to plug this? Anyone else run across this?

I have a B-1 1949 pickup with the 218. Lucked up on an old Plymouth 3.9 rear end in excellent condition. I'm thinking about putting this one in my truck. Would that be a good choice? Thanks Also if anyone knows of a gland nut for the temperature gauge fitting I can sure use one. Thanks Guys

The sensor in this engine broke in several places when removing from engine. Is there an aftermarket unit that can be used for this? I haven't located a vendor having a replacement. Any problems with plugging the hole to prevent water loss until I come up with a fix?

Thanks guys for all your answers. This will get me going again.

I have 2 intake manifolds for the 218 that are different. The mount up of both are the same the difference is the mixing chamber below where the carburetor mounts. The one that came off the engine is 3 inches in high. The replacement one I bought is 4 1/2 inches high. Would this difference cause a problem with fuel air mixture or something else I don't know of? Also is there a trick to removing the broken off bolts that attach intake to exhaust?

I have a 1949 Dodge B-1 with a busted exhaust manifold. It is the 23" engine and am having a tough time locating a replacement. Then when I took the engine to the shop for a rebuild it was found the intake is cracked as well. Is there any other make engine that has manifolds interchangeable with the Dodge? I have called and visited all the junk yards around me that I can find with no luck. The intake could be brazed but the exhaust has several pieces missing. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks guys, got it all done and ready to go back in. Still not sure of the differential swap. I am thinking the car differential would fit in the truck housing. By the way, I found another complete rear end but it is 4:11 as well

In the process of restoring a 1949 Pilot House pickup and replacing all wheel and differential bearings. How do I remove the rear axles allowing removal of the differential? I will need to remove the bearing race as well. How is this removed once the axle is out? Also it being the 4:11 ratio will the car ring gear and pinion fit in this housing? . A lot of questions here but am really trying to make a good dependable. Thanks in advance guys. Don

This is from a 54 dodge 4 door sedan.

I am new to the dodge family and have a 49 pilot house with bad engine. I have the option to buy a running 54 inline 6 cy engine. Will it fit in the truck without any issues or should I search for the stock engine?