doogan

Found a running engine with numbers I can't identify. First it is in a 51 ( I was told) chassis, block is 23 inches and water pump is the one without the short rubber hose over to thermostat housing. Number stamped on the normal location is only TP23 and nothing else. At the bottom of block on left side is 59 8 12. To the left of that is 148 then area looks like it is rubbed out then 44. Engine smokes so to rebuild I am not sure if this is 218 or 230. Is there another way to verify what it is?

OK. Worked out to be a 49 at least the cab mounts up just right so I guess it is. Thanks for all the information and help.

Doesn't matter just so the cab will mount up. The cab is a 49 b1 with no bed as I am going to build a wooden flat bed on it. The frame I'm looking at is a rolling unit with engine. Seller says 47 so I have measured the bolt mount distance on the cab and will go back and check frame mounts. Sure looks like a 49 but seller says 47. Not sure if there is a difference.

Thanks. I found a 1947 frame and have a 1949 b1 cab I would like to mount and build a wooden flat bed and thought this may work. The seller said the frames were all the same and that just didn't sound right too me. Thanks again.

What frames are interchangeable under the pilot house pickups? I was told they are the same from 1937 to early 1950's.

Does anyone have a picture of what is used and where it mounts for the side mount spare? This will be a great help as I am trying to install a trailer hitch on my 49 B1 and the spare would be lying in the bed.

On these wipers the arms will screw onto the stud on the cowl but do not turn. There is nothing inside the arm that has anything that slips over the splined stud. The only part in the arm itself is the nut that screws onto the threads at the end of the stud. That is why I bought the repair kit shown in the top picture. The second picture shows the inside of the arm but isn't clear enough to see nothing is in there to slip over the splined shaft. The repair kit has one of the round knurled nuts that does slip over the splined shaft but I don't know how it attaches in the wiper arm. There were no directions with the repair kit and nothing seems to fall into place. It just seems to me the wiper arm is missing the part that slips over the splines.

My 49 B1B has electric wipers and everything works except the wiper arm. The problem seems to be that the knurled inset inside the wiper arm doesn't go down far enough to slip on the splined section of the wiper mount. So I bought a wiper kit with a knurled part that fits the mount but I don't know how it should be placed in the arm or if it should. Is it possible the mount section on the truck is for the electric wiper arm and the arm itself is for the vacuum system. The wiper motor works and the little splined stud that comes up through the cowl under windshield turn back and forth but the wiper arm will just sit there. They were not working when I got the truck so I'm trying now to get them going. Do you have any idea's or possible solutions?

Well everything has been running fine since restoration. But yesterday I was going for a ride and just happened to open the right side hood and noticed something strange. There was water sitting on the exhaust manifold at the bolt location of the front most of the two bolts that go between intake and exhaust. Not enough to cause it to run off onto the floor just a little down the side of the manifold. Checked all bolts and yes some tightened up a little not much and none as much as half a turn. So thinking that would correct it I drove it some 30 miles with no problem and got home. This morning I go out and the water is back. Anyone ever have this happen? Seems strange that a manifold bolt would be that close to the water jacket or should I be looking for something else. I thought about removing that nut and stud, put some type of sealer on the bolt and then reinstall. I'm just hoping there is no cracked block. Any suggestions short of removing the manifold and installing a new gasket? Thanks again Don

PROBLEM SOLVED at least for now!!!! Well I have been bumfuzzled all day but finally fixed I HOPE. Like I said whenever I would crank the engine and turn the lights on everything worked fine for about 2 minutes and then all lights would turn off for 5-10 seconds then back on for a minute or so then back off. This would continue as long as the lights were on and the engine running. After all day of checking connections for tightness, verifying wired correctly, undoing, redoing, praying and wondering the problem was located. I had replaced my generator with a 1 wire, internal regulator alternator. Then left the old voltage regulator mounted on the firewall using the "Bat" terminal as a junction for the alternator/gauge wires to connect. Well apparently the regulator was building up current back into the light system causing it to become intermittent. So I removed the wires from the regulator and taped them together, cranked the engine, turned the lights on and let it sit and run for over 5 minutes. The lights stayed on the entire time. So unless something else pops up this problem is solved. I plan on taking an old broken regulator and gut it leaving only the 3 terminals using one for the junction of these wires. Or just stop by the store and get a junction strip and mounting it in place of the regulator. Thanks guys for all your help and suggestions. Hopefully this will help someone else from having to go through the same bumfuzzled day. Again THANKS!!! Don

Gone back through all the wires and tightened again which didn't change a thing. As for the electrical system I have a 6 volt 1 wire alternator with internal regulator. I left the original regulator on the firewall and using the "Bat" terminal as the junction for wire from alternator and wire from amp gauge. My next plan is to remove these two wires from the old voltage regulator and temporarily tape them together. This will eliminate a possible problem there. Still working through this trying to figure it out. Thanks for all your input and help. Don

Well today started some test to try finding problem. Problem: Headlights will work for about 1 minute then go off for some 10 seconds then back on for 30 seconds before going off again. This continues all the time and there is a click in the light switch each time lights go off. None when they come back on. Test: Disconnect 1 headlight from circuit and all other lights stay on with no going out. Check voltage at each terminal post and parking and running lights show 4.5 to 6.5 volts. High beam terminal post shows reading of over 124 on the volt/ohm meter. Reconnect all lights to terminals and turn on without engine running and they stay on indefinitely without going off. Even left switch on for about 5 minutes and all lights stay on. With this I have found the only time the lights go off and on is with the engine running. So this has me in a pickle as I can't understand anything that would cause this. I tried it once again by turning on the lights with the truck sitting in the garage and they would stay burning until the battery ran down. Crank the engine and let it sit there running with the lights on and they will start the intermittent going off and on. Turn the truck off and they stay on indefinitely. I am just plumb bumfuzzled as we say here in south. Have any of you ever had this problem. I've gone over the wiring diagram and traced wires and they are all correct according to the diagram as shown in the manual. Again I'm just plumb bumfuzzled. Don

Just finished restoration an out for maiden voyage. Everything runs and works fine. At dusk pulled light switch and parking lights came on. Great that is what I wanted. As it got darker pulled light switch knob an headlights came on. Again this was great. About 1 minute later ALL lights went off as though I had pushed in the knob. Thankfully I got over into parking lot just as they came back on. By the time I reached up to scratch my head they went off again. About 5 seconds an back on. I noticed a click from the light switch as though a relay switching off each time this happened. Well finally got home with blinking lights all the way. This is a new switch wired exactly as diagram shows. Is there a relay in there Or just happens to be a made in China defect? Anyone else ever have this problem in their 49 pilothouse?

Here is a before and after

Thanks David I will start looking for an old style speaker. junk yard here I come!!!!

Thanks guys. I want to keep the radio original so I will look for a good speaker and plug it in. Thanks again.

Well guys I thought I had finished my restoration but now realize I don't have a speaker for my Mopar 803 radio. The radio works when I connect an old speaker from a 12 volt system, well as best as AM can do on the old thing. I measured and the speaker grill seems like a 4 1/2 inch speaker goes there but can't seem to find one. Any one know of a source or will any speaker work on DC 6 voltage?. This is for the pilot house B-1 truck that mounts in the dash left of the steering column and the speaker is across the truck next to the glove box. In my area there is only 1 AM station that I can pick up but I just don't wont to mess something up that still works as originally intended. It's tough being sentimental to these old treasures. Thanks Don

Well I finally finished restoration on the 49 B-1. As soon as I learn how to post pictures I will show some before and after pics. I'm rather proud of the old truck. If it provides me with as much enjoyment and dependability as one did for my dad some 50 years ago I will be well pleased. Dad had a hitch on his old truck. Not the old type that bolted onto the rear bumper, but one that was some how bolted to the frame and came out under the rear bumper. He used it for his fishing boat and a little 10 ft trailer to haul things around with. Anyone ever done this or have any suggestions as to how it may have been done? Wish I had thought and looked it over back then. Thanks Don

Thanks guys. Yes its the 1 wire GM alternator. I can put it on, wire it and get on down the road!! Thanks again

First: Am wondering if the 49 car door lock will fit into the passenger side door of a 49 B-1 pickup. Last: My 6 volt generator on my 49 B-1 works but I want to replace it with a 6 Volt alternator with an internal regulator. I have a new alternator that has the internal regulator which means I don't need the regulator in the circuit. How does the wiring from the regulator and generator change? I was told to take the small wire on the generator and tape it up as well as the field wire on the regulator. Next the larger wire on the generator goes to the 1 post on the alternator. Then the arm and battery wires on the regulator are connected together leaving no wires on the regulator. I'm not sure this is the correct way to do this. Anyone ever replaced their generator with the alternator/regulator setup? These two questions will finish my restoration and when I learn how to post pictures of it on this site I will show the before and after. Thanks again Don

Well it is finally fixed. After doing all the test on the generator and regulator as shown in the manual, rechecking the wiring diagram and tracing all the wires, testing the gauge and finding nothing out of order I decided to move to the only area I haven't touched. The battery. So I removed the 8 volt battery and replaced it with a 6 volt out of my A model. First I cranked the truck with the 8 volt still installed. While running I removed the 8 volt battery. This proved the generator was putting out voltage as the engine didn't die when the battery was disconnected. The 6 volt battery was installed battery cables hooked up and when the engine was sped up walla!!! it was charging and showing a strong charge on the amp gauge. I don't know why, how or what the problem was but it is now working and that is all I needed. So tomorrow its to town and get a 6 volt with at least 625 CCA and put the 8 volt aside. The pilot house is back on the road and running fine. Enjoy the ride and keep 'em going. Thanks Don

Once again I'm at a loss as to what the problem is. This is a 1949 B1 that has just finished a total off frame restoration. Here is the story. This problem existed when I got the truck last year and started the restoration and now it continues so I've missed something. Problem: the amp gauge pointer sits in the center "0" location all the time until the lights are turned on. Then it shows a discharge and will not move toward charge no matter how fast the engine turns. I have tested the generator and it is putting out 7.1 volts. I used the jumper on the regulator grounding the field terminal to the engine block and the amp gauge goes fully to the charge side. Replaced the regulator with one from a working truck and it does the same thing. I have followed every wire and they are just at the wiring diagram shows they should be. All lights, horn, stop lights, wiper and heater blower work. At idle the regulator will have a hard click about every 2 seconds and the amp gauge needle will wiggle at each click but nothing else. The only thing different than the wiring diagram is there is an 8 volt positive ground battery used rather than the 6v. Anyone ever had this problem or is it just me? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Don

When I got my B1 pilot house it had an 8 volt battery in it. Everything seemed to work fine with the exception of the voltage regulator making a hard clicking sound when the engine was running. Each time the click was heard the amp gauge needle would jump. The clicking occured about 2 seconds apart on a continuous pattern. Is this caused by the 8 volt battery? I replaced the voltage regulator and it does the same sound. I know it is coming from the regulator as when I lay my hand on it the clicking can be felt. Thanks in advance.

There is nothing in the arm except the threads for the stud. Thanks guys for your help.

Hey guys I guess I've done something wrong.....again! My 1949 B1 pilot house has electric wipers. They worked when I got the truck and now that it is finally restored the wiper arms will not move. The motor runs and the linkage works and the little gizmo's that come out under the windshield turns back and forth. I place the wiper arms on them and turn the nut to screw them onto the stud, turn on with the switch and all works except the arm doesn't move. If it tighten up on the nut it stalls out the motor so I shut it off not to burn it up. Any idea's as to what I have done wrong or a part i've misplaced? Hope to get the bed, seat and door glass installed next week and post some before and after pictures. I learned how to drive in a 49 dodge panel some 57 years ago and what memories this brings back. It was dad's "fishing" truck and when it was raining I would take it to the lake, back up as close as I could without getting stuck (sometimes too far) open the two back doors and sit in the dry and fish all evening! Wow what memories! Thanks Don