finmad

I need some info on a new project 1955 Dodge Town Panel. I am looking for the model number, I think it is C-3-B but not sure. Anyone know the color combinations offered on this year town panels? it is in Primer and I want to paint it back to a factory color.

My 1948 Wd-15 is off to the next adventure in Germany. I was offered a very good price for the truck and was eager to start a new project. I have already found the next project a 1955 dodge town panel. It was fun while I had her. I still have a bunch of engine parts laying around. I will put them up on the for sale page soon.

It all looks to be there. That is the way to go. It has everything including the push peddle and fork for the starter, emergency brake linkage, oil lines and canister. If you just buy a motor and trans you will spend a fortune buying all the little parts. As a matter of fact if the motor is bad all the linkages and parts are worth more then what he is asking.

I was able to press the bearings in with the vice on the yoke and shaft, however I need to install these with the trans and rear end in the truck, so I guess I will just use a large C clamp for those. JB, I got excited and did not take pictures before attempting the install. I ruined the thin caps that hold the needles on two of the crosses. When I get the replacements I will take some pics.

So I got my ujoints, anyone have some tricks for pressing these into the yoke, transmission shaft end, drive shaft end and rear end. My 1947 WD-15 has the type, whithout end caps to place the u joint and then bolt the end caps around it. Mine has the complete holes that the ujoint caps need to be pushed into then plates are bolted across the end of the ujoint to keep them in there. Trying to press them in has collapsed two of the needle berring caps at the end of the ujoint cups.

That's smart to do it with the u-joints and transfer shafts. I will definitely find a shop that can do it.

I was thinking the same thing. Is it something you can do at home? or does it need to go to a shop for that?

Sure thing. UJ 538 http://dodgecentralmi.biz/ocart/mechanical/Universal

After I posted, I was able to find them at Detroit Trucks. Good customer service....

I am trying to Isolate a vibration at high speed and someone I trust more than me, said it is probably the u joint(s). He said if I replace one I should replace both (sounds logical). My problem is I do not know where to get them from. Vintage has them, but three different types. Does anyone know where I can get the correct u joints for a 1947 WD-15 Cross and roller type held in with lock plates?

So then the evaporation theory sounds logical. I was wondering why the bowls would be empty since the fuel line is up high on the carb. If it is normal, then I guess I will live with it.

Can you guys give me some advice on this? When my truck sits over night, the fuel flows back down to the pump and upon start up, I have to run the starter for a while to get the fuel pump to push enough fuel up to the carb for it to start. I don't believe this is normal, does it indicate a bad fuel pump or a check ball not working in the carb or???

I used a light coat of windshield sealer just to hold it down tight, then I put a piece of saran wrap over it (incase any sealer pusses out) and pulled the cowl vent down super tight to lock it in place while the sealer dries.

Thank you

just got a cowl vent seal for my 47, I don't want to put it in wrong. one side is flat with a little lip and the other side has rounded edges. which side goes up?

Finally got the brakes done, after more worrying and procrastinating I broke down and had an old timer mechanic come to my house and we opening up the braking system. I had to buy one of those old hub pullers from ebay and wow did it do the job. One whack after tight and "pop" off came the hub. What lurked underneath was a big surprise. Nearly new brakes... The guy who had the truck before me must have done a complete brake job, but never adjusted the camber bolts. The linings were barely wore and the hub had no lip. All we did was put everything back together and adjust the camber bolts, top off the brake fluid and bingo, brand new brakes. they work great. Now I have a full set of shoes, slave cylinders and rebuild kits that have to go back to Kanter....

I certainly will check them again, now that I have the right tools. Not nervous anymore.... The point John made about the tolerances is interesting. I have a replaced motor, it is 50 Plymouth, so along with the WD-15 shop manual I have the spec sheets for torque and clearances for the 50 Plymouth 218. I set the valves at .010 when hot, but based on what John said it might be a little too tight. If in fact the motors are all the same and the clearance requirement is based on the rpms drawn from gearing and such, I may need to loosen them a bit. Now that I have the right wrenches, I am not worried about getting in there a few more times. I will try them a bit looser, say .013 and see how the motor runs.

This is what it looked like before and I could only get it here with the rpms way up. If I brought them down below 800 the needle bounced from 15 to 22. http://s202.photobucket.com/user/dschlick/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/D95B6BD5-ED83-4F6F-9002-590F56AFF56A_zpsdwug8utr.mp4.html?sort=3&o=48

I picked up a set of vintage Blue point extra long tappet wrenches and holly cow are they great. It took me longer to get the access panel out than it did to adjust all the tappets to .010 with the motor running. It now runs so quiet you almost cant hear it. I can only tell it is running by the light vibration in the cab. Adjusting the valves cured my vacuum issue. now the gauge is right at 19 and holds. The truck idles at 450 with no surging or misses. This is how these trucks were meant to run and until you have it tuned nice, you do not know what a good tuned truck is like. PERFECT. You guys are great for all the info and help. here is a video of the vacuum gauge after the valves are adjusted https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZX9cK1_8bw

I had just enough room on my bell housing to slip it off the pins and slide it up and off.

I bit the bullet and opened up the access panel and removed the tire, I got in the side plates and was able to adjust 11 lifters, but one is stuck very open. It is the only one ticking and I can not adjust it. I am using standard length wrenches so I will order a set of long wrenches and see if this gives me more leverage. On a side note, the truck idles at 500rpm and the vacuum gauge is steady and holding at 19. Excellent job guys with your advice and recommendations.

What a great truck, kind of reminds me of the Ute. Very unique. I am imagining that cab with the rounded fenders of the early 40's trucks here in America, how cool.

Well there's your problem.... Some one forgot to open the oil bottle and just shoved the whole bottle down the fill tube.

I do think there is some of that going on here, I was told not to use detergent oil. I have been running 4 qts of straight 30 weight with one quart MMM. I know opinions are like assholes "everyone has one and most stink" BUTT (pun intended) should I switch to detergent for a while?

Awesome, Your video did help a lot, and I appreciate the tips.