Darkrider

I actually ended up selling this truck a few years ago and its cab got swapped onto a 1993 Gmc Sierra 1/2 ton chassis which essentially gave it new life on a more up to date suspension and drivetrain.

Now if only it were this easy for the bigger trucks lol

From what i recall reading the Data plate on my B1D which has the 228 i believe it was rated at 89 Hp.

Does anyone actually know what the ratios are and what model the stock 4 speed transmission is?

Excellent! Thank you! Once again Thank you for the info!

Ok instead of starting a new thread on this i will ask it here. As i understand things now the 218/230 are a 23" block and the Canadian version of the engines are a 25" block...So on that note...i am assuming that when i am looking at parts such as headers and intakes i would look at parts for the 25" Chrysler/Desoto block correct?

Thank you for the info! Now i can send those measurements to the place i was talking to about relining them to get a quote. I am not sure as to what ratio it has at the moment but thanks for the info as to how to find out!. I will be working on the truck again in the spring hopefully so i can search out that info when i am near it again. It is currently parked at a friends acreage.

That will be its main purpose is for underhood trouble shooting. Same reason i will probably end up fitting a fuel pressure gauge as well. Thanks for the info! While doing some searching online i seen info that hinted at the front brakes being something around a 11x2 pad while the rears were around 14x2 or something. Seems odd the trucks would have larger rear brakes but eh. Speaking of brakes...Since it is quite likely i will be swapping in a TF904 into this truck to eliminate the hard to find clutch and starter problem that stalled this project. I need to change the brake master cyl mounting anyway...I was talking to a friend about using a vacuum boost set up in its place after seeing one used in the truck that got a Hemi swap on here. The question is this...will i need to fit a dedicated vacuum pump to the engine or can i safely use the same vacuum port the windshield wipers use with a T to get vacuum pressure to the booster?

Hmmm thought it was a direct bolt up...What is the spring pad width on these trucks then? I am also considering an axle swap to my one ton to a newer one ton axle to gain better gearing and e brake especially if i end up doing an automatic transmission swap.

Ok, Digging this up as i plan on starting to gather more parts for this truck over the winter. One idea i am considering is replacing the oil filter set up with a modern remote mount spin on filter. Is it possible to simply remove the original set up and install barbed hose fittings to do such a thing? I am also planning on adding an engine bay oil pressure gauge as was recommended in this thread earlier. Just covering all my bases here on this thing. Speaking of...does anyone with a B1-D know what the measurements would be for the brake shoes on these trucks? I may have a lead on someone here in Canada that can reline the ones in my truck but as i do not have access to it at this time i cannot get the measurements from it.

Ok...been away for awhile due to various outside factors related to work and some issues with my daily driven pickup that took my focus off of the B1 for awhile. The problem with the starter really stalled me out and im still searching for one. However while surfing the quality power site one evening i noticed they listed a 12 volt Gear reduction starter that will fit similar year Chrysler applications. Now remembering that Paul used one from a 54? Plymouth to convert his truck to a solenoid type starter i am just wondering did the Chrysler cars use the same engines as the trucks as well? I will be calling them in the near future to see if their starters will in fact work but i just wanted to have a rough idea ahead of time as they list the starter for both Hemi and non Hemi cars with the same part number. Either way for convenience sake i will be doing the 12 volt conversion on the truck either way using a GM 3 wire alt that i already picked up from a friend and most likely using the all thread method of mounting it i seen on here.

Awesome thanks for the pics! I can def see how i can set things up now...did you have to alter the slot for the radio itself to clear the gauges?

Nice...i may just end up doing the same thing for the volt gauge, just place it under the coil switch...or i guess i could drill out the area where the switch was and mount the gauge up top and relocate the switch under it...hmmm either way i will sort that out...been trying to figure out a "clean" way to add additional gauges to my truck. Would it be possible to get a better pic of the gauges in the delete panel?

Looks like a nice setup with the new panels, Though im kinda curious about the gauges in the radio delete panel? I never even considered that as an idea for adding aux gauges to my truck. Or a tach where the speaker is located on mine either. What gauges do you have in the delete panel? I may need to seriously consider that idea for mine for at least one aux gauge since my ignition kill switch is in that same area.

So i understand this correctly if and when the time to do the gasket ever comes on my truck...You used the head bolts that would go on the outside of the chevy heads (between the exhaust manifold and valve cover) correct? Almost wondering if one couldnt upgrade to say ARP studs intended for that application to have a bit more clamping force to keep the head tightened properly.