1949windsor

Hmmmmm. mini coils on a flathead?

Yes I got the dizzy idea and instructions of the /6 from here on our forum originally. Then after looking around I came across a whole bunch of additional info on the /6 forum I'm no automotive electrician by any means or even that much of a mechanic, but I am a tinkerer who is always looking to try and solve a problem with what seems to be the best info I can find. I thought the hall effect was the 5v thing they were talking about when they said they were not compatible... LOL I wasn't kidding when I said I'm no automotive electrician. I am working right now on a solution for the kickdown switch which I used for my 6v auto choke. I'll keep this posted in the next day or so when I know if it worked or not

Anything I can provide to help one way or another is all good for everyone I got a complete setup out of 96-00 GM vortec engine. Comes with module, coil, heatsink, mounting bracket, and wiring for $15 at a salvage pick your part yard. I grabbed out V8 setup for $10 an IC29 coil (not necessary but others recommended it so why not for $10) Went to NAPA and bought a TP-45 4 wire module(they didn't have any of the older 4 wire modules I could find at the salvage yard or I would have got one there) because the one that comes with the vortec engine set up is not a magnetic pickup but a hall effect so they are not compatible with the /6 dizzy. The hardest part (if there is one) was removing the old coil and replacing it it as it comes riveted to the bracket. That took about 15 minutes. The nice part is now I can put just about any coil on the bracket I want since it is now bolted together instead of riveted to the bracket. Wired it all up in about 10 minutes or so, re-gapped the plugs to .045 and it started first crank. This is a picture of the setup when you get it before you change it out the module. This is where I got the instructions and there is also a link on there for discussion about the results for more info" http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

I see your point, but my car is no restoration in any way. I have a 12v car with front disk brakes and radial tires. Its been customized all over the place including removing all the trim, chopped and lowered. It's had lots done to it over the years. I appreciate the pristine restorations as much as anyone and the people who dedicate the time necessary to keep that part of automotive history alive and well. I have a good friend of mine who has a restored 48 Plymouth woody that is out of this world. I do not have that time, nor the money needed to bring this car anywhere near back to its original condition, so I am making things easier to drive and more dependable rather than period correct. The reason I changed over to the /6 is because of the results others on this forum and other mopar forums have had. It eliminates the points, internal dizzy wiring issues and produces a better result. There is a reason that they do not currently run points on new cars today, now that someone came up with a simple conversion there is no reason not to adopt it. Everyone who properly installed it, raved about the results. For me its no different than radial tires or disk brakes. As for the advance curve, I used the original shaft/weights/springs which would produce the exact same curve as my original dizzy did.. Unless you are doing a period perfect car restoration, why would anyone want to use outdated technology when there is better available... no matter which companies name is on the box. As for using the GM vs. Mopar electronics, it came down to the same thing again. People who had tried both or looked at both, including "mopar guys", leaned towards the GM system for several reasons. Nothing is necessarily wrong or deficient with the mopar parts, it was just that most of them felt GM had done a better job in this particular system. And from all the aftermarket systems that are made to go on just about any car, they also copied the GM design. The reasons are one, simplicity. Its about 1/2 the wiring needed as the Mopar and other systems. Less wiring means less that can go wrong. And two reliability, no ballast resistor to go bad. The HEI does not use an internal ballast resistor, it uses the full 12v and an internal electronic voltage regulator. Also there was a time period when a lot of the mopar boxes were going bad very quickly. Not sure why as I'm not a electronics person, but it was all over the place and you cant tell whether or not you are getting good parts or bad parts from the outside of the box. My car runs much better, it was easy to do and inexpensive and the parts are available everywhere if something were to ever happen. And I really do mean I appreciate the restored cars. every show I go to my favorite section is always the properly restored cars. I do appreciate and enjoy all the work those guys put into those things

Actually the /6 conversion used my original shaft/weights/springs from my original distributor, so shouldn't the curve should stay the same? The only thing that might be different would be the vacuum advance which is adjustable anyways.

Not sure who is on their high horse about GM parts, but it went in in less than and hour. Better idle, better acceleration, not run it long enough to know about the gas mileage. All parts combined cost less than $150 and went in total time in about 3.5 hour. The parts are available everywhere about half the wiring needed compared to mopar and no ballast resistor to go bad. Not sure why some mopar people believe that everything mopar puts out is the best? I have a 2006 Charger R/T. 1 week ago at just under 100k miles and it dropped the intake valve seat on cylinder 4??? Never overheated it, nothing, just went to start the car after getting gas and away it went. Got online and apparently EVERYONE is having this problem at or around 100k miles... to the point that engine re-manufactures wont even give more than a 12k mile warranty on the POS HEMI 5.7L engine. Oh and its made by Dodge. My Ford explorer BTW has 446K miles on it and only requires oil changes.... I also put radial tires on too

/6 Electronic ignition = no more points. HEI means better spark, more power and better fuel mileage... and its simple to do, readily available and inexpensive. Here is a thread off another mopar site about the HEI conversions: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28732&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

It was the springs... I'm not sure what they came off of, but it certainly was not for my dizzy. I had to use a pair of pliers to even get enough leverage to move them. Went to Napa to get new springs and for some reason I talked myself into switching it over to a slant 6 distributor electronic ignition with GM HEI. I spent a lot of time on here reading others woes about ignition issues trying to find out what might be my problem and everyone who did the conversion raved about the results and how easy it was. Since its already converted over to 12v anyways I figured why not. Already completed the distributor conversion ($75 including cap and rotor) which only took about 1.5 hours, including disassembly, turning down the housing on my drill press, and reassembly. I am a little concerned as that had to be the easiest mod I have done on a car... ever. Going to hit the junkyard in the morning to get the HEI/coil/wiring harness which will probably go horribly wrong to balance how easy the distributor conversion was today This is where I got most of the info from and it was spot on and easy: http://p15-d24.com/topic/27231-flathead-to-slant-6-distributor-conversion/

I did check the mechanical advance like you recommended and there was zero advance at any RPM. I don't even know how that is possible. I guess unless it is full advanced at the lower RPM ?? I am at a loss.

None, nata. I have a 1949 Windsor with fluid drive 2 speed. I took it to a local mechanic to have it tuned up and have them look at the transmission which for some reason won't auto downshift in to the low gear, and always requires the clutch to be pressed down when stopped. After 3 months I finally took it back as they were not able to make much progress. No progress on the tranny whatsoever, and car would overheat in about 10 minutes... The timing was off 20 degrees and the carb rebuild they did had the thing put together wrong... So I regapped teh spark plugs just to make sure, reset the dwell to 39' set the timing to 0 TDC, which for the most part got the temps back in line. I fixed the carb back to specs and it is running much better. But now I noticed that as the RPM increases(which is now possible without overheating) I lose power until I have none and have to short shift... seems like more electrical problems so I immediately suspect its something wrong with the carb again.. Well I noticed they had also put the heat exchange valve thingy on backwards (always open) as well so I then fixed that I check the carb and everything else seemed to be fine... I suspected that maybe it was a vacuum leak but no. I checked the vacuum advance and it was holding vacuum without leaking and moving the distributor rotor properly. I connected a timing light and started it up before reconnecting the vacuum and there I could not get any advance no matter how much I revved up the engine??? I took apart the distributor and checked everything and it all seemed fine. The only thing is that the springs looked new on the weights which does concern me given everything else that got screwed up. Is there any way to check what these spring rates are supposed to be, or does anyone carry a rebuild kit for these distros. I figure at 60+ years old it can't be a bad thing to replace the bushings and anything else that wears while I have it out. Thanks for the help

My repair manual shows it should have the band type and the cable coming out of the brake was brazed on to the cable coming from the brake handle??? does anyone have a drawing on how this works so I can take replace the shoes and put it back together properly? Also since it is not the correct brake, I don't know what shoes and seal this is supposed to fit on to get the replacement parts. thanks Brandon

Overhaulin.....LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL sorry had to do that. 20 guys working 24 hours a day, work looks great but kind of sets the time frame up to be a little disappointing to us guys who can only put in a few hours each weekend. Everything will take 5 times longer than you think it will...let it and don't rush once the paint is on you can't go back and "hammer or block sand that spot one more time" to make it just right. Believe it or not I did ALOT to my car and found that the HAMB had lots of guys who had done everything from full custom, chop, section, etc. to basic dent repair willing to give advice and YouTube even had some really helpfull videos.

It is not what is in my repair manual, or pics of what I have seen on here for what is supposed to be on my car? (1949 Windsor) I need to replace the pads and seal (nice job installing the seal if you look close you can see where they used a fillips head screw driver to install it..can't believe that leaked LOL) I also need to figure out how this thing originally connected to the hand brake because the crappy brazing job along with some wrapped wire to hold it in place ain't cuttin it.

I am replacing all the brakes and hoses and I was told they are not rated to the dot 3 fluid and the fluid will rot the rubber. Took my old hose down to a local auto parts place (don't attempt this with Trak Auto or Pep Boys, look for a place where they guy behind the counter finger nails are dirty from working on cars) Told him it came out of a 49 Chrysler Windsor and his reply was no sense in looking it up in the book cause we ain't got one. Then he grabbed it off the counter and went in the back and came back 2 minutes later with one that was about half an inch longer with the correct fittings. That will be $12 he said. What will my kid do (he's 14) when all these places are gone, and he is stuck with the corporate auto place nonsense where they can't even look up a part when I give them the damn part number! Enough bitching I just love supporting the places that have the passion that I have for old cars. Brandon

Went to the local parts store looking for one of these...Its an old school auto parts place called Top's auto in Anaheim CA. Manager laughed at me cause he knew what a Bit## these were to do as he had done several himself. Recommended a rental place basically across the street that had been there for over 30 years. Went in and it was hanging on the wall. Drivers side came off without too much swearing...Passenger side not so much..it actually striped out one of the bolts from the drum and shot it into the wall:eek: Decided to get new lug nuts that had not been in and out of the car for the last 60 years, luckily it was right hand thread. I reinstalled it back on the drum then tightened it with my impact wrench and started up the torch. after about 10 minutes of slowly heating up the hub on all sides decided to try my luck again with the hammer after about half a turn....POP and it was off. Replaced the outer seal for good measure cause of the heat. Without the torch though it was more inclined to use the lug nuts as projectiles. 1 last thing.... changed the front breaks using Charlies adapter. Parts are easier to find, WAY easier to adjust and install, stops better and at $300 per drum, Charlies adapters are the best $200 investment for the car!