3046moparcoupe

I took the flywheel that came off our 1946 P15 Plymouth Club Coupe project, over to a highly recommended differential clutch and gear machine shop that repairs the majority of older flywheels here in the Dallas Ft Worth Tx metroplex area. Super nice bunch of folks, incredible busy bunch - my gut impression was really good and my understanding is they've been there for over 25 years, anyway - Reason for getting with them is to have the flywheel re-surfaced and to replace the ring gear. Immediately upon looking at the flywheel - he asked how many miles were on the car. (the odometer reads 44,000 and some change),....he said I need to know if that's supposed to be a flat or a step flywheel, as he pointed to the round depression area (exactly where the clutch rides) on the flywheel surface. (I measured this lower surface area where the clutch rode in relation to the flat outer surface of the flywheel, with the slide rule end of a set of dial calipers, and I get a depth measurement of 24 thousands lower then the outer flat surface area of the flywheel. Their machine shop books did not go back as far as 46-48 so he wasn't able to look it up in his documents. But in looking at the lower circular area he stated that it would seem like an abnormal amount of wear for a car with 45K miles, so his guess was that this flywheel was a two step flywheel and not a flat flywheel that could possible have that much wear. Obviously I'm not much good here - except to show what details I have been able to put together, which are as follows: ###note### just an fyi - This car came from a car collection in Louisiana. So far in dis-assembling the car (and I've got it completely taken apart except for the frame and suspension), it has been a 100% original oem part car...course that still doesn't mean that this flywheel couldn't be a step child - but I would have to think the odds are in my favor, (initially, I had thought the rear motor mounts might be something odd but the more I've studied them I think they were just so badly deteriorated and squashed that they looked wrong at 1st eyeing them, the more I've studied them I believe they were also original). 1: 1946 Chrysler Corporation, Parts Division, Parts List Book, shows oem starter to be pp# 1113 119, (this is a match for the starter on the car) 2: " " " " " " " flywheel to be a PP# 1119 716, (the only numbers I can find on this flywheel . are a (2) and a (13) as shown in the casting, see the following 2 pics... . , 3: This car does have the standard 9 1/4 " clutch, however you can see in the pictures that the flywheel is drill and tapped for the 9 1/4 clutch basket, as well as what looks like the larger 11 " clutch basket. , . 4: The lower, round surface area of the flywheel - where the clutch rode in relation to the flat outer surface of the flywheel, when measured with the slide rule end of a dial caliper, shows a depth measurement of 24 thousands lower then the outer flat surface area of the flywheel. I'm trying to rule out the possibility that someone has done something (C R E A T I V E) here , regarding this flywheel - but obviously my knowledge isn't sufficient to know or see what might be going on. Any of you 1946 - 48 P15 guys out there who can shed some light on this,....your help is needed and greatly appreciated. QUESTION: Did the 46-48 Plymouth's have a two step flywheel ? Could they have a two step flywheel ? etc.. Thank you all so very much. If I never received any further help from this forum, I would still consider it in nothing but a positive light. The help sent my way to date has been second to none. I've certainly gotten more than my share of help and I will definitely try my best to hold up the standard set by the folks here on the forum, and try to help others in the future as my knowledge grows, again with and thanks to the help of YOU ALL. Steve Gentry

Earle, I just spoke with Bernbaum on the phone and that's a good part number and currently they have it in stock. I don't have a pic at this point, it is listed as leather and he confirmed that the boot retainer is included at $24.50 ea.. A big thanks this morning also out to PRK for following through and getting an oem boot retainer coming this way. Casper, thank you for the ebay heads up,...I just clicked on it and for some reason it didn't jump over to the ebay posting, but I'm guessing this might be that listing I saw for the entire clutch fork with a boot still attached to it. It was around $50 as a buy it now,..If that's the same thing you were gonna show me, yes sir - I have it marked in my watch list as we speak, if it was something different - let me know...and thxs again. Just for grins I'm wondering if a rubber boot listed on the internet as fitting many Chevrolets from 62 up (with certain engine sizes) would be close enough to work on the Plymouth 3" x 2 1/2" Bell Housing clutch fork opening. From what I can tell (from pics and info)the inside of the groove that holds the boot in place is approx. 3" x 2 1/8"...but in looking at pics of the boot, I think the long side of the boot (3") is intended to lay horizontally, where on our Plymouths the long side of the boot lay's vertically,..so I know it would be a long shot, as even if it would hold in place despite the variances you see in the edges of the cast iron bell housing opening, it still would need to seal around the fork and not be overextended as to shorten it's lifespan..I found one on ebay that cost's $6, might just give it a try to see. thanks everyone, awesome forum. Steve

Thank you Don, Roadking and Earl. I woke up this morning and went straight to the computer hoping for some good news and sure enough there was some there, thanks to the P15 forum. It's amazing to me, because in this day and age it seems like - as a general rule, and especially with living in this large DFW metroplex area,...folks just don't care about others problems or ever venture a step out of their way to help another,...(of course, not everyone - but again - pretty much the rule. Well - that's not true with this forum,....I am truly amazed with the attitudes and the help I have found here on the site. Roadking, again - that's as good as it gets and I applaud your willingness and effort to help,..(I also sent ya a separate forum personal message back on this)..Yes please I definitely would love to have it..thank you, thank you...and even though your kind enough to offer it for free, we'll figure out something on that.. Erle, I will call Bernbaum just to see what they can say about the item they have listed and I'll let ya know.... Thank you all for the quick reply's back, all I can say is OLD MOPAR'S ROCK and the P15 FORUM IS THE BEST OF THE BEST !! I'M PROUD TO BE A FORUM MEMBER. Steve

Well I have been fortunate once, in receiving on this forum, from another one of the members, good template dimension information - that allowed me to build a simple part I was missing..(it don't get much better than that),...thank you much'o - so I'll try my luck again . Just discovered that I've thrown away the rectangular shaped metal frame that is used to hold the leather clutch fork boot in place at the opening of the bell housing.... I have found the template info in the download section of this forum that allows for building the cover itself,....thank you P15-D24 forum I do have the original rectangular shaped vent that covers the hole on the other side of the bell housing, and both of these bell housing openings are identical in size, but a first look at trying to use the dimensions of the vent plate - ( for the clutch fork boot frame ), look to me as though the vent plate is probably a bit smaller than the clutch fork frame..it just doesn't seem to overlap the hole far enough. It would seem that the I.D. of the clutch fork boot frame would need to match the bell housing hole opening so the frame ear tabs will bend back and hold the unit in place,..and then if someone could provide the outside dimension of the clutch fork boot frame,..I should be able to make one - (unless these frames are made from something like spring steel and not regular steel ) ?? also thinking that the template might provide me with the locations for the finger tabs,...if not - I suspect I'd be needing that info as well. Talk about a dumb move on my part,..I had a badly deteriorated - ripped - crumbled up - clutch fork boot on this bell housing when I pulled it from the car a few days ago,...there wasn't a lot left of the boot but a wadded up chunk kinda sitting halfway in the opening, the rivet had long since ripped out of the boot where it attached to the fork ),...but if I hadn't accidentally let this part get swept up with the trash - I bet the frame could have been straightened out or used to make another one. I see where bernbaum has one listed in their catalogue, but it doesn't say if it's just the leather cover or if the frame is included,..guess I'll call them 1st thing Monday morning to find out...if anyone knows the answer to this or can possible help with the above - please respond back my way. I really appreciate the help. Steve Gentry #817-590-9716 email: seguitar1@yahoo.com

I'm 1 1/2 years into the build on this 46 Plymouth Club Coupe, and I can't even come close to telling you how many times I've been coached and helped along the way so far, by so many of the P15 forum members. I have never been a member of a forum before, so I didn't really have any history to compare to, but I can't say enough about the help I've received, Thank you especially Don, Tim, and Ed, and now also Jim Russell (P15 Jim),....Jim was good enough to send me a tracing of the brkt that anchors the clutch fork rod spring to the side of the bell housing. Jim did an awesome job of gathering and getting ALL the dimension details to me on the drawing and it allowed me to build the bracket I was missing from some 1/8" scrap steel laying in the corner.....I was having no luck with the wrecking yards on this as I'm guessing it was one of those too small to be worth their time kinda things, as non of the wrecking yards would ever call me back. Here's a picture of the bracket, which I was able to cut out per Jim's specs,....(cut out, drilled, sanded, painted, and hanging to cure...) Thank you again Jim. Steve

Wanted to share my recent experience with Roberts Motor Parts concerning replacing the U-Joint rubber boots on my 46 Plymouth P15 Club Coupe, with all the forum members out there, I hope it helps. If you look up replacement rubber boots in Roberts Catalog,...you find the following : pp # T65 @ $24.50, desc: rubber boots pr and clamps, yrs 35-65. and pp # P319 @ $24.50, desc: Universal Joint Boot (big), yrs 55-65 (some). So, I ordered the T65 for my 1946 P15. Once received, these rubber boots looked like the correct part but they were about 25% too small overall,.in comparison to the boots on my driveshaft, absolutely no way these would work as they would have to be stretched a good 5/8 inch just to reach the clamping surface on both sides of the boot.. After speaking with Roberts, they assured me that the T65 was the correct boot for this car, and cautioned me as to who knows what anyone could have done to modify this driveshaft over the years,.....They had a good point, as I have only owned the car for the past 1 1/2 yrs - so it could easily have been a fact,....What did not make sense however, is that to my knowledge, there were 2 original Detroit style ball & trunion joint mopar propeller shaft sizes,..the 3 5/8" small, (used in all cars with standard transmissions), and the larger 4" (used in some cars with automatics and all trucks) I have the 3 5/8" drive shaft, with the 3 5/8" flange covers with the dpcd logo....and no evidence of any kind of tube replacement, etc... At this point, after a couple tel conversations,...Gary Jr. at Roberts was good enough to get one of the larger boots, pp#319, and we compared some measurements of the boot over the phone,... I asked him to go ahead and send the larger P319 boots, and they did........ Y A H O O !!! A perfect match.... (it did take Roberts 3 different mailings to get me a large and a small clamp for each boot,.....but we finally got there,...)... and to top it off,.........today, I was able to push the boots past the pins, up through the flange and into place on the driveshaft - without tearing or ripping them... ###note### I did change the formula up a bit for pushing the rubber boots through the flange. Rather than use grease, I coated the rubber boot inside and out, with Meguiars Rubber treatment,...as I had the driveshaft and the flanges all painted, and it seemed a good choice to condition the rubber of the boot while sliding it on with the Meguiars rather than grease. Then a little regular 90% Isoprophyl Alcohol on a rag cleaned up the Meguiars easily and quickly off the inside and painted exterior of the flanges....and a paper towl blotted away any left over Meguiars from the inside and exterior of the boots themselves. Meguiars is not like Armor All protectant,...I was introduced to it by the Sea Ray Marine company, as they use it on all the vinyl and rubber on their boats.....so hopefully this will preserve the lifer of these boots, ( this stuff is super slick when you apply it, and after I took my time cautiously pushing the 1st boot through the flange, the second only only took me about 2 minutes). I just wanted to share this info with my forum members. It helped me immensely when I was starting the process of freshening up this drive shaft, to be able to read all the great posts that exist here on the forum regarding this topic.....and I read where some folks had bad experiences with the boots (Now, time will tell on these as to how well they will hold up),...but from some of the things I read, if you received the T65 boots they spec out for the P15 cars, I could see how many have written that the boots "DON'T WORK",...and I'm suspicious if you might have received the smaller boots also by mistake. A special thank you goes out to forum member Larry Bauer who was good enough to share his experiences with me regarding this same subject. also, I can't explain it - but don't let em snow ya,...upon getting the second boots, I got 4ea clamps all the same size,...when you speak to Roberts about it, they will tell y a,.."we've been sending them out with those same clamps for years and your the first to ever say it's not correct",..which sorry guys, but makes no sense, the boot is a good 1 inch larger on the big end than on the small end, so no way clamps the same size could work on both ends....if what they say is true, I guess folks were re-using their old clamps,...they would have to.... Definitely not trying to bash Roberts Motor Parts on this post, as I am extremely thankful for the products they (and the others Bernbaum, Steele, etc..) provide for us, so we can have a chance at getting our projects up to snuff and eventually completed, so I'll live with the extra shipping costs, both ways, and the peculiarities that present themselves along the way... and to wrap it up,....I did also grab me a set of the original leather type u joint covers, just to have in case the boots don't hold up. Again, thank you members on the forum for sharing, everything I read about the leather covers was good, and obviously the ability to just un lace them whenever to check the joints and re-grease is a plus..... Thank you P15 Forum, and I hope this possible be of help to someone out there. Regards. Steve

In cleaning up my clutch linkage and comparing it to the OEM parts exploded view diagrams, I am in need of purchasing the following parts: (1): the small flat bracket that anchors the spring the connects to the clutch fork..... part # 952 585 desc: Clutch release Fork Pull Back Spring (2): the spring that attaches to the above brkt and to the clutch fork,.... part # 626 220 desc: Clutch Release Fork Pull Back Spring ###note### also, If someone has this bracket, but don't wish to sell it, if they could provide an outline tracing or the dimensions, I should be able to work from that and make it. (3): Looking for rear motor mount hardware, especially the spacers (tube and washer assy). Both the above needed parts are for/from a 1946-1948 Plymouth 218 flat six, 3 speed manual.. Thank you Steve Gentry #817-590-9716 email : seguitar1@yahoo.com

Looking to get my rear tailights re-chromed. I've got them dis-assembled and everything came apart nice - but I can't figure out how to remove the quarter size reflector buttons located in the bottom center of each bezel. Did a little surfing around the internet looking at pictures of 46-48 P15 tail lights, to discover that they are not all the same....at least as far as the reflector goes....maybe my reflector buttons have been southern engineered back into place, not sure at this point......what I see on the internet pics, shows bezels that have the reflector button protruding out from the bezel a distance that looks like naybe a 1/4 inch or so,.....both the reflectors in my tail light housings fit flush with the metal circle that holds them. When you look at the inside of the tai llight bezel, where the reflector button sits - it's smooth flat round metal, about the size of a quarter, sorta looks like a plug, ( I say that as there appears to maybe be a very small seam line around the edge of the round metal - but even looking with magnification, It's kinda a draw on whether it's a seam or just a crease in the casting),... I hate to just get out the hammer and start away at it...sure would be nice to salvage the reflectors - especially if they can be restored from there faded condition back to a nice red....not really interested in doing the aftermarket LED replacement lights,...I would rather restore these original 6v lights....no splits or cracks, only some small pitting and all thread holes are good,..any help would be greatly appreciated.....thanks, Steve

Thanks PA....I have been thinking on the same lines (about making one),..and also what you stated regarding it possible being a catalogue error...(claiming to cover so many years)..at this point the only thing I could point out, is that this rubber piece was noted in the catalogue to fit yrs 42-48, so they weren't showing it to fit on a 41...I've got my hood laying flat atop a large cardboard box inside the house, and last night I stepped over with this rubber piece (as both sides "top and bottom" are not shaped exactly the same way ) and tried fitting it to the rear underside of the hood.....one side of the rubber is almost flat , just a very slight arc,..while the other side (even though it also goes from thick in the center down to an almost knife like thin outer ends) has some irregular contour shapes to it...placing the flatter side against the rear underside of the hood, in the flat hood area available where the center ridge stops short of the end f the hood, was a fit...I'll keep digging on this....thanks again for your reply...maybe I'm underestimating this, and course it would be homemade and not an oem piece, but seems like the bar would also not be difficult to make. The dimensions would just have to be accurate...?

Maybe someone out there can help me out with their experiences regarding P15's that "DON'T" have the rectangular shaped hood hinges that provide the mounting holes for the under hood support bar. The project I'm working on, a 1946 P15 2 door Club Coupe doesn't have the support bar, and the hinges have more of an overall triangle shape to them missing the 2ea holes per side at the forward part of the hinge where the support bar would attach. Before posting this, I wrote forum member Don Coatney and bounced this question off him, as I had found a previous post from him in the technical archives, where he had stated that sure enough - some P15's have the hood support bar and some don't....I also have found a pair of refurbished hinges listed on Ebay exactly like mine, that state they are for a P15 without the hood support bar... Before joining this forum, I was placing an order with Bernbaum, and in their catalogue, under weatherstripping for the 1940-48 Plymouth grouping, on pg-4. I found an item as follows: Part #A365-A, Desc: (under center rear of hood rubber 1942-48) cost $16.50.....so I thought Ya Hoo !! this must be what I'm missing and I included it in my order...I recieved it with my order, it's a rubber spacer (kinda shaped somewhat like a small banana) about 7 inches in length, again curved like a banana, 1 inch thick vertically in the center - roughly 1 1/4 inch in overall horizontal width, and tapers out to a thin edge on both ends...ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS PART ?? As Don repleyed in his message, this rubber spacer wouldn't provide any rigid support for the hood, like the bar,...but (and again I'm completely asuming and hoping here, thinking out loud - as it came with no instructions), that possible if attached with adhesive (like weatherstripping) to the rear underside center of the hood, in that little space where the underside hood center ridge stops just before the rear end of the hood,....that it would be 1st to make contact with the cowl firewall top center when closing the hood, and like a spacer would raise the center of the hood when it was being closed....??? I believe I would much rather have the rectangular shaped hinges and the support bar, rather than what I've got...because without something to align the hood while closing, it would seem difficult to keep any paint on the rear of the hood and the top of the cowl/firewall ? What I was doing, before taking it all apart, was reaching up and over to grab the rear center of the hood, and lifting the hood as I was shutting the hood, this would allow it to clear the firewall (top center) long enough for it to swing into place and rest against and down on the lacing. Once the hood was shut, the lines and gaps on all four sides of the hood looked great,..so nothing appeared to be bent, missing, etc... Maybe Bernbaum can shed a little light on this,...haven't tried then yet as I've contacted them via the phone before on orders and had good customer service and then also somewhat of what I'd call questionable customer service as well. Basically your one word type answers, spoken in a somewhat aggrivated sounding attitude... Anyway - thanks in advance to anyone out there who might be able to share some of their insight on this. as I'm not trying to be lazy,....if the front body sheet metal of the car wasn't completely taken apart back to the windshield, it would be an easy thing to experiment with a bit. Just trying to think ahead a little,...I lay in bed at night and this stuff goes through my head non stop...it would seem that since me previously lifting the hood at the rear center allowed it to clear the top of the cowl when closing, I could see this possible working - if placed in the correct spot - but also it would seem questionable that trying to use an adhesive to either stick the rubber spacer to the bottom of the hood/or the top of the firewall/cowl,...might be somewhat difficult to have stay in place or last - as the hood would not be coming down square on the piece, but hitting it and sliding across it as the hood moves towad the rear as it's being closed.. Anyone ?? Steve

Went down to Oreilley's this morning and found a half dozen 1 3/4 inch hoses that looked like good candidates to make the connection between my angled thermostat housing and the straight down port on the Champion Radiator,.....some had longer straight sections than others and all these hoses had the slight upward bend required..(so there was actually a bit of variety in dimensions as well),...course can't tell for sure until everythings in place and in hand....found an internet seller who'll do a complete refund return within 60 days if not satisfied or any fitment problems, so I'm gonna order from them and give this a shot.....just gonna confirm with Don again, that his radiator fit in all other aspects, except for the out port he had to cut.....thank-you Don, Rick and Mrwrstory for your efforts to help...S.

That was my 1st thought, (as mentioned in the original post), I contacted Jeff at Champion - sent him some pics and a drwg with some angle dimensions via email, and he's supposed to get back with me. Seemed a bit odd to me - that they would go to the trouble to make a radiator the correct size, shape, with the pit cock in the right place, with the outlets in the right place, with the mtg brkts and holes drilled in the right places, and then drop the ball on the angle of the top outlet tube - so I thought they might have some notes on file about their reasoning, maybe a recommended hose retrofit, etc...anyway - at least Jeff was honest, kinda funny - his intial response was that it was easier to build at a 90 degree angle ...anyway - still waiting on a response from them to see what they'd charge to build one with the angled port, as it's only been 2 days..(his initial guesstimate was that it might cost an extra $20 or so)....thanks again guys for your comments and direction....after studying this a bit more, sorta seems to my eye that my angled thermostat tube would make it easier to possible find a hose that would make the necessary single angle bend to connect into the radiator the way Champion now has it made, versus what Don was dealing with on his....I would just need a hose with a single 130 degree or so bend in it, kinda like a spread L shape, Don would have needed something with two 90 degree bends....I appreciate the forum much. Don you have already helped me out more than once.....thank-you Sir. Steve.

Try #2, picture attached time I do believe.....S.