ROB-PA

Thanks Jeff. That is the current plan. Too bad about the clutch, it looks new.

Merle, Thanks for the information. Do you happen to know if the FD clutch is the same as the standard clutch? It's beginning to sound like my best course of action is just to go with the complete set up I have with the standard clutch/transmission and eliminate the FD. It will be relatively easy to get the driveshaft extended. Trying to get this done before winter sets in here as it will most likely be tarped up all winter (no room indoors right now).

Greg, It leaked some due to it being tilted down in the back (no engine in place). From what I can see in the manual that I have it may weep a little after start up but should settle out once it has been run for a while. It is now being held in the proper position. Does anyone know what the correct fluid is? The manual that I have just says to use the 'special fluid drive fluid'. Will automatic trans fluid work? If so it may need to be drained, flushed and refilled.

Okay I found a manual that has some information on the FD. Looks like a simple torque convertor but the seal for the output shaft is the issue. Two different types, both require special tools. I'm sure there would be work arounds for these tools; the question then would become are the replacement parts for the seals readily available? If it leaked does that necessarily mean that the seal needs replaced? I'll spend some more time later with the manual. Any information that you can supply would be greatly appreciated.

I appreciate the input. Like I said before I don't know anything about the mechanics of the FD. It was tilted back, probably about 20 degrees. The drive shaft was still connected and at one time there was a block of wood wedged between the bell housing and the floor to sort of keep it in place. By the time it arrived at my place it was drooping; may have came loose on the flatbed ride or years before. I have it lifted in place now but I do see evidence of something having leaked. What bellows? I thought this was just a torque convertor. Is it just a matter of filling it or is this a more serious problem? I appreciate any education you can give me. Meanwhile I'll see if I can dig up a manual that covers it. If this is more complex than a simple torque convertor it may just be eliminated.

Well today I went out and crawled around under the truck. I set the transmission where it should be and found that the drive shaft slip joint appears to be correct and the shifter is well centered in the original hole in the floor plate. Either the 4 speed and the 3 speed are pretty similar or someone went to a lot of trouble at some point. The tranny appears to shift well, the clutch appears to be relatively new, as for the Fluid Drive torque convertor it's any bodies guess at this point. If Jeff is right and the 230 I have will work with the Fluid Drive I think I will just drop in the engine and leave it as it was. If not I see that the floor panel has the boss stamped in it for the shifter location without the Fluid Drive; then it will just be a drive shaft length change. I have so far found several simple problems that will need addressed to make the truck safe but nothing major.

Merle, It is definitely a 3 speed. Looks slightly different from the other 3 speeds I have but definitely the same size. The others that I have are older (35 & 46). I suspect that the 4 speed must be longer; I did notice that the slip joint on the drive shaft appeared to be extended a little too far. I didn't think anything of that when I first looked under there as the tranny was sagging down on the mounts with the engine out.

Jeff, I hope your right that would make life easier. The engine & bell housing are still tarped up in the old truck frame, I'll have to pull it out and check it. Merle, crawling under the truck everything looks original but who knows. I could not find a 'fourth gear'. I believe that reverse is supposed to be a separate rail that is toward the driver and back. If so, it is not there, so I believe it is a 3 speed. Thanks guys.

Thanks Don, I did not realize that. It sort of defines my options. I guess I either find an engine that was from an FD car, try to rebuild the hulk that came with the truck or convert to straight 3 speed. Rebuilding may be possible but not practical (seized pistons, bent valves etc.) if I want to drive it in the next year or 2. Tracking down another good engine just to save the Fluid Drive doesn't seem logical. I guess I'll install the drive line that I have on hand (54 Plymouth 230 w/ truck bell housing & 3 speed) and fabricate the correct drive shaft. By the way I just came in from moving parts out of the cab and jacking the existing transmission back in place (sagging down & tilted backwards so that the shifter hit the seat, preventing shifting). It is, after all this, just a standard 3 speed. I guess the guy I picked it up from assumed that the floor shifter meant it must be a 4 speed.

Thanks Merle. It's good to know that this isn't somebodies Rube Goldberg modification. I've driven the FD cars before but have never worked on them. I was 16 when I acquired the 50 Meadowbrook. Any feelings on whether it improves the shift-ability of the 4 speed crash box or makes it more difficult? I was hoping that I could just drop a flathead 6 in and drive it to sort it out. I may even use engine that I got for the 35 Plymouth since that is a more long term project.

Thanks Ed. Have you ever seen the non-synchro 4 speed used with the Fluid Drive? I suspected the drive shaft would be questionable since there was a major model change in there. I may put a Cherokee axle in if I switch to the 3 speed so I would change the drive shaft anyway. I'm not too familiar with the Fluid Drive other than owning a 1950 Meadowbrook back in the 60s.

Gents, Haven't posted in a while; been working getting new house under construction ready for winter. The 35 Plymouth is progressing slowly but I recently got the opportunity to purchase a 1950 B2B. It's in fair shape, no rust, but the engine is in the bed in many pieces and may not be salvageable (sat outside for a couple of years after the previous owner passed away. My first question is about the transmission. It is supposed to be a 4 speed. I assume if it is it is the non- synchro 'crash box'. The surprise, to me any way, is that it appears to be a Fluid Drive. Is this normal? I have never heard of that (but then what do I know?). Second question; Is this worth trying to save as original and if so, what headaches can I expect? Last question, for now anyway; What is the possibility of using the 3 speed/ bell housing & driveshaft that I got from the 46 truck that I got the engine for the Plymouth from? I hope that I can pick some of the expert brains here.

Well today I got a chance to spend some time working on the Plymouth an I solved my switch removal dilemma. On both the Panel Light switch and the Headlight switch you need to go to the fully extended position. On the panel light switch this lines up a hole in the outer switch body and the inner slide. The hole is near the dash on the passenger side. You can then insert a probe and with some wiggling and some pressure the knob and shaft will slide out. The Headlight switch is similar but the hole is on the top near the dash. Both have a groove around the shaft that an internal clip locks into for retention. Amazingly enough after 80 plus years both switches function well. I don't know if there are any other years that share this method but hopefully this will save someone else the scraped knuckles and knots on the head that I got figuring it out.

I see that. There may be a set screw in there. Thanks rb1949!

Thanks Tod, I thought that they might be threaded but didn't have any luck trying to unthread; guess I'll try a little harder.

I know that this has been discussed before but my search of previous posts did not find anything that matches what I have on the 35 Plymouth. I have just finished stripping the firewall and the dash. The only holdout is the 2 light switches; Headlight and Panel Lights. The knobs don't have the slot mentioned in all the other posts. I don't know if they are threaded on or if they are pushed over a spline. The bezel or escutcheon or whatever it is called has the 2 slots that appear to take a special tool which I will most likely end up fabbing. I thought that would consult with the experts before I destroyed something. Any advise?

Don, sorry to hear about your problems. I hope that you are taking care of yourself and that your health improves. Guys, just remember, getting old may really suck but it sure beats the only alternative!

I used to race in the SCCA and was also a national Tech Inspector. After a fatal accident due to the problems noted (scratch yielding hidden corrosion) powder coating was banned on all critical parts; frames, suspension, etc. I doubt that the technology has progressed to the point that this has changed. I would never use powder coating on a frame.

The rest of what is for sale is a stock late 30's engine and 3 speed tranny. I was thinking about that manifold on my 35 Plymouth with the 230 that I picked up. I don't really need another engine though and, as I noted, the price is kind of steep. I believe that he went late model V8.

Can anyone here ID this intake manifold? Any idea what it is worth? Engine and tranny for sale here locally and the price is a little steep. The picture is not so good.

Frank, thanks for the reply. I have the remnants of the original seat covers in t my 35 Plymouth and they were definitely broadcloth. One of the upholstery suppliers that I spoke with (don't recall which) told me that like paint, seat material could be ordered to Chrysler specs and that was why they supplied both mohair and leather options. No idea if he was correct or just blowing smoke.

Not Mohair......Broadcloth. (?) Since I will be recovering my interior at some point I was wondering about the comment. Is it not as durable as the broadcloth?

Phil, You're welcome. I'm glad that I was able to help. Rob

Newportwipers is what you want. They are still there. https://www.newportwipers.com/

In my previous life I removed and installed many timing gears from VW crankshafts. The 3 jaw puller will work well, just be careful not to damage the teeth. A little heat on the gear and lube on the interface just prior to the pull will help a lot. I actually had my brother, who was a machinist, make me a special fixture for the gear removal. It uses a machined plate that provided about 180 degree contact behind the gear in place of the 3 jaws. Installation is much easier. I just heated the gear in an oil bath on the stove to about 300 degrees F and it slides right on. You may want to keep some tension on it as it cools to prevent it from pulling back off of the shoulder. When I did the VW set up the crank was out and was sitting vertical so there was no issue.