JJs 1948

A couple weeks ago I had a new key made for my 48 truck passenger door lock. For $20 they made a key to match the lock. I did not have a key for the lock that they could copy. Extra keys were $1.79 each. I don't think that is too expensive and this is from a very good locksmith business.

Shame to see that rear bumper go to waste if it's an original. How about the locking gas cap?

My rear windows were out and I thought installing the windows after the rear panels would be easier. Looks like I thought wrong again. Your plan worked well Merle and others should use it too. My truck was totally stripped and in pieces when I bought it.

Thank you for trying 48 Dodger but there must have been two kinds of splash shields. I have the one piece style in your photos but looking for the two piece corner style like Merle's. I did find some today and should have them next week. Thanks again everyone for the help on my project. Jeff

I just finished a Quiet-Ride interior in my 48 B1B. I wish I could start over again on the pieces around my rear windows. Start with the center rear window panel clamped in place. Then clamp your corner panels in to test fit all three pieces before attaching and trimming. I used soft pad wood working bar clamps. The side edges of all three panels butt up to each other. I thought the center panel was going to over lap the corner panels. Now I have a 1/4 inch gap between the panels and may try to move them another time. Also be careful not to trim too much plastic in the lower corners on all the windows because the window rubber may not cover it and you will see a gap. I insulated the rear cab wall to the floor and bought some black vinyl from a fabric shop and glued it on the insulation with the supplied glue from Quiet Ride. I did not spray glue on the two vertical metal ribs on the rear cab wall so they would not be as noticable and the vinyl would look smoother all the way around. The sides are tucked in behind the B frame for now. Waiting for my correct door panels to arrive now. This is my first restoration but I hope this may help coming from a rookie.

Sorry I forgot to mention the important pre-lube steps that grey beard wrote. I did the same thing to get my oil canister full and some oil in the system and to make sure the oil pump was working. Hard to know exactly how much pressure you may have and if your oil pump is a good one untill the engine is running.

This worked very well for me on a total rebuilt 218 recently. Take the spark plugs out and put a few drops of oil in each cylinder followed by a blast of compressed air to possibly spray it around. Gently pressurize or force fuel from your fuel tank all the way up to your carborater with compressed air. Use your hand with a shop towel over the fill pipe and slip your air chuck thru a small opening. Have someone watch for the fuel to flow past the fuel line sediment bowls if they are on your system. Use a twelve volt battery because the engine will be tight and turn over hard. Make sure the dwell and point gap is set properly and the engine will start pretty quick. Have someone control the carb throttle by hand the first few starts and the person inside the cab needs to watch the oil guage to shut everything down if oil pressure does not come up soon. Good luck.

I have some I can give you. I soaked some used cables in oil, did some cleaning, and they work fine for me on my truck. My extras are the same, not nos but useable.

Those are the ones, the corner pieces. Thanks for clearing that up Merle & grey beard. Does anyone have some spares to sell or a contact for some? Thank you. Jeff

Would anyone have a left and right pair of splash pans that attach to the frame and just in front of the toe kick in good condition for a 48 B-1-B? Sure would appreciate some help and would purchase them. Thanks, Jeff

Yes, I am talking about the grill-shell clip to front fenders. Someday I will know the proper names for all these parts. I'll try the caulk method. Thank you for all the help. I just might get this truck done in a couple months !!

I mean the filler between the front grill and headlight clip to the front fenders. I ordered fender filler for front fender to cowl from Roberts and dissapointed to find out it will be too thin. I need to check out the Steel company. Would I use thin rubber on that gasket?

Could someone please tell me what kind of filler material to use between the front clip and the front fenders. Thanks

Thanks guys. One of my goals was getting to the point of posting some photos. Getting things done eventually, little by little.

I'll try that 48dodger. Thank you.

These are my first photos here. The truck is in a dusty body work shop and get worked on in spare time. As for the color, it's a paint formula for Marathon Fuel Company to match the blue colors used at Marathon branded stations. I own a Marathon gas and convenience store in Onsted, Michigan which is in the lower S.E. area about 45 miles above the Ohio border line. The color can be found at most auto paint stores. I'll put a magnetic logo sign for Marathon and for Subway on the doors occasionally. Added Subway in 2004 which has helped very much. All parts are painted now and waiting for assembly. Finished the wood this week and will start on the bed next. Cherry wood stained and blue metal strips are ready and will be the look. I'd like to get the doors on and keep some dust out but the bed will be first. A friend of mine is doing the work (paid of course) who is a body man and mechanic full time. His passion is restoring old farm tractors and custom show cars so he has the know how and I mostly get parts and the grunt work, but I am learning. The truck is really dusty, hence the plastic cover, so I havn't taken photos until now but were close to taking it outside for a wash. Back to work.

Truck photos

I have the horn ring and button assembly, just need the 1952 steering wheel that it works with. I didn't find out until recently that there is a difference in the 48-51 steering wheel spokes to the 52-53. Something in fair to good condition would be great. I will purchase or trade for a steering wheel. Thanks for any help.

My first post of pictures and it only took me two days to do it. I hate computers @#%X!! This is from my 48 B-1-B. Had to use a temporary heater line to run from the water pump to rear of block. The radiator is probably from a Mopar car and came with the truck when I bought it in pieces. If this works I'll try to send a couple of others.

I recieved some photos. Thank you Grey Beard for you help.

Do you have a photo or is it in the parts book somewhere? I bought my truck as a basket case and believe the previuos owner bought a horn ring and the horn button to go with it. I havn't seen a photo of a truck with one or a illustration of one in a parts book. Thanks for any help, Jeff

Does anyone have any information if Dodge made an optional horn ring that attached to the steering wheel and horn button for the Pilot House trucks? Thought I read about one somewhere.

Thanks guy's and I will get some photos. The challange will be how to send them with a message.

Finally after nearly ten years of on again off again restoring my 48 B-1-B I decided to get serious this winter. I bought this truck as a basket case which included many new and NOS parts the previous owner had purchased. Started with the bare frame and went slowly on from there. The chassie and drivetrain is done, cab and box on the frame, everything is painted except the tailgate, and this past week installed the wiring harness, guages, and battery. So test fire day anxiously came Saturday and she fired right up. I have a good mechanic working on this with me in our spare time and he gets all the credit. Just thought I would let the forum know another Pilot House has come back again. Your help has been tremendous. Thank you all and more questions to come. Jeff in Michigan

Hi Reg, I didn't get a chance to look at my email at work yesterday. I'll check it from home and get back to you. Thank you, Jeff