pontiacguy

Here is the casting number for the block. I use the words csting number as I ordinarily deal with newer stuff which has it cast in the block. Since it is a unique identifier, t is probably technically correct, but misleading. You can see the diamond. So yes, Its a 230. It as my understanding that Chrysler was basically trying to use up what they had around as Dodge was moving on to a new motor in 55 and Plymouth always gets their hand me downs late in the run, they started using 230's instead of the 218's. I got lucky, because as you stated, my car has no options. Not even a radio. It has horns, heat, and nothing else.

Well, I am trying and losing the fight to upload photos. I will check back in later when I have more time to argue with the internet.

100% positive. I have the diamond cast in the motor. I measured it up when it was apart. Its the later car, with the 230 not an earlier 218

Thanks Ill try that I have calipers and depth mics. perhaps I can use one of the longer rods from the depth mic with an indicator on a base to make it a little easier and more like the one spec'd out in the manual

yes, the whole motor was apart. I did a complete rebuild. To quote Arlo Guthrie " There wasn't no part untouched"

Thanks fro the pic, very helpful. This is intriguing, you balancer is entirely different than mine. Mine literally is a pulley with a flange on it.

P.S. I have searched through this forum and I know other people have had this exact same issue. I just cant find any resolutions or a tech that addresses this. Maybe my search skills are lacking. If so please shoot me a link if you know where the answer is. Thanks again

1954 Plaza (P25) 230 I finally got my flatty back together and started it tonight. Here is the problem. Its running hot, and I when I checked the timing, its about 20 degrees retarded. So, I know it shouldn't be running if its that far off. I broke out all my manuals and re-read everything for the hundredth time. I was hoping for an actual photo of good timing marks as mine are really obscured. My motor was all original, and when I blasted the pulley clean, the marks came back but they cant really be read. the lines are basically there though. No problem since the manual says 2 before TDC or straight up whatever your motor likes. So I set it straight up, so I thought. This isn't the first motor I've built in my life, just the first flatty. So at this point I'm looking for a sanity check from you guys (or gals if we have any) The motor ran fine and didn't overheat when I tore it down. It was all original. The pulley didn't appear to be an actual balancer, which I thought was odd, but again I figured it was a low RPM motor maybe it didn't have one, just a hard pulley so I didn't check the marks for balancer slip. My distribution tube isn't new but it was good so I reused it. Motor got a complete work over. I don't re-use parts as a basic rule. It's .030 over, crank is .010/.020. I used a new chain and gears from Bernbaum. I set the marks on the gears verified it was at TDC, and the cam was on the compression stroke so I believe the chain and gears were good. I thought that the mark lined up with the pointer. I dropped the dist in with the rotor at #1. I have gone back and bumped the motor around to the compression stoke on #1, but here is where I think I am in trouble. I just lined up the mark with the pointer to verify I was at TDC and check the rotor. So, questions: 1) Is the crank pulley actually a pulley/balancer combo? 2) I do not have a dial indicator that will fit into #6 timing indicator hole to verify TDC. What do you folks suggest or have you used in the past? 3) Anyone have a photo of a balancer that has legible marks I can use as a reference? 4) Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance!!

Hello all, as my name suggests I am traditionally a Pontiac guy. I have searched this forum already and found a lot of good info, but Im having trouble getting an answer to my Overdrive trans dilema. Any help would be appreciated. I had the opportunity to score a pretty solid 54 Plymouth Plaza (wagon) with the 230 and the 3 spd manual . Now, the work begins to make it like I want it to be. As I intend to drive it regularly, an overdrive trans is a must. I intend to keep the 230. As luck would have it, my friends uncle just scored a 52 Dodge truck. Also a flat 6 and a manual trans. He isnt using either, and I would like to know: 1) if his manual trans could be an overdirve trans. ie did they put OD trans's in trucks 2) how would I (he) identify the trans as an OD unit as opposed to a regular 3 spd. (I am in TX the trans in in MI) 3) what are the differences between his truck trans and my car trans. I have learned they are different and I think with the bellhousing I can mate his trans to my motor but i am not fluent enough to do this in a timely (and painless) fashion I prefer to use the factory trans for an overdrive because i want this car to remain factory looking. It will not be getting a modern driveline. If i get desperate I will T5 it though because the speed limit it 75 here and I dont want my flatty to come apart on me. Thanks in advance for any advise you can offer

Well the spring came in. It fit basically like the original, however, it was made so that the index line for rich/lean settings didnt align properly, It functioned, but it was shorter than the original as well so it didnt open any faster or farther than the original. In the end I went back to the original because I wanted the rich/lean marks to be correct. So, If you have no spring ir yours is broke its worth the 10 bucks. Otherwise, look for a plan B if you are really picky like me. IN the end I am still looking for the solution to my choke problem

So, I took a chance and found a "universal choke thermostat spring" at carburetor-parts.com. with shipping it will cost me $10. Ill give it a try and see if it gets me there. Ill let everyone know what happens

well, I definitely dont have the triangular brace so I feel good a knowing its not a BB the pic was helpful. Thanks! It makes sense that the choke tube NOT be exposed to exhaust gasses as it would clog that little guy up. So, likely my thermostat is just old and dead. not a crisis assuming i can get one. carbkitsource.com does not list one, and so far Bernbaum and Roberts dont seem to be able to help either. Any idea who may have one? It doesnt need to be NOS. Any old repop will do. In fact I prefer not to use NOS as the cost is prohibitive for a daily driver, and this carb will sooner or later be replaced. I am even thinking of a dial thermometer to source the spring from. Thoughts?

Thanks for the link. It is definitely a Carter BBS. So, regarding the choke tube. Does anyone know if I should actually get hot exhaust gasses out of it. Right now I get no hot air at all, which i suspect is my problem. I have checked it to verify it is unobstructed. in fact if i blow compressed air from the carb side into the manifild, it vents out a slot in the heat riser cover (on the bottom of the manifold I checked it with a mirror). I was thinking that when cold, the riser should close and thereby provide heat to the choke thermostat. then as the motor heats up it would have enough heat to stay open as the riser opened. I see no mention of that in the manual. Also, where did carter stamp the carb number at? cant find that darn thing either. BTW, this is my first MOPAR so thank you for your patience, and of course the help!!

I just picked up a 54 plaza wagon . It has the 230. I understand this was a late year upgrade and it actually was originally a dodge motor exclusively. I have not sucessfully identified the carb. I suspect this is that is the reason why. My service manual only shows a divorced spring on the exhaust manifold. I have a single tube from the exhaust manifod to the choke theremostat mounted on the rear of the motor. My problem is I cant set the thermostat to close the choke completely so the car wont start cold. THe heat riser is in place, and moves freely. I am assuming that I should have hot exhaust gasses traveling into the thermostat to heat the spring and open it. I have run the motor and manipulated the heat riser. I do noiot achieve any hot anything out the tube. It is possible my choke thermostat is just old and dead. Can someone please explain the way the system is supposed to operate so I can try to narrow down the problem. I intend to daily drive this car once all the bugs are worked out. Thanks