janan5243

It sounds like the battery is dragging when hot. It was common in older starters, 6 & 12 volt. Usually means starter has to be rebuilt. I know you said you replaced brushes & cleaned armature but there could be a problem in the windings that happens when it's hot.. There is an old time gauge used to check the ampere load used by the starter. it would be held on the cable going to the starter. check load when cold & then when hot. If it draws a lot more amps when hot, then starter is bad. I believe you can still get the gauge at an auto part store or maybe a friend has one. Simplest way to check starter.

Sorry to hear about your health problems. Here's hoping that there's a happy, healthy solution around the corner. You'll be in my wife's & my prayers. Jim

thanks for your service. If you have any mechanical ability our cars are easy to get & keep running. a service manual is a very good tool to have. thay are available on many sites, original or repros. Good luck.

I joined this site in 2013 after buying a 49 Desoto coupe. While surfing it I found your post about the disc brakes. Decided I wanted to do the same conversion. Could not find the post ( was not smart enough to bookmark it.) Spent weeks searching for it. Did find Falconvans thread & He was quite helpful. Haven't been on forum much lately ( business issues ). Was so happy to see it revived & at the forefront last week.IT IS NOW BOOKMARKED. Hope to work on conversion this winter & spring. I have a parts exchange book & it shows the same hub for many different models. May be some small differences in the caliper bracket. I'm going to make a mockup with 1/4 luan to see how it fits on my car. Thanks for doing this post.

there are machine shops that spray weld the journals on a crank and can then regrind to original specs. The only time they can't do that is if the crank is damaged another way, such as cracked or bent. ask me how I know that. There are several shops where I live that do that type of machining. I would ask the shop if that is what they intend to do.

20 % waste figure is a good number. the only way to cut waste is to have a room that you can start with a full tile & end with a full tile. If you don't care about cut pieces being equal, you could start at door wall & work back to shower. A good contractor will start in center of floor & work out. That way cut pieces, if any, are even. Big box box stores subcontract work out & are going to be more expensive. You would be better off with an independent tile installer. I was a contractor for 50+ years, almost all work by word of mouth.

Very sorry to hear that you have health problems. You will be in mine & my wife's prayers . Being a little long in the tooth (72) myself, I've had problems with pain in my legs since a quadruple bypass in 2013. with no relief despite many visits to many different types of Drs. Here's hoping for a happy & healthy solution.

Capitol region of New York had many record warm temps Jan., Feb., & March. Had 2nd least snowiest winter in recorded weather. Had no snow in March. Had most snow in one snowfall 1st week of April. Had one Sat. in march very close to record cold (- 19). April had below normal temps & May hasn't been up to normal yet. However, I'll take a winter like this every year. Didn't help my hardware store bottom line. I'll still take it. If they didn't salt the hell out of the roads, could have driven car most of the winter.

I'm not sure if a body parts manual would have that. I guess I'll just buy one. Thanks for replies.

I am asking for some tips on the steps to remove or get the instrument cluster free to work on gauges, wiring & bulbs.I have asked several times in previous posts but never received any responses. I think that there are screws under the windshield garnish trim. I'm hoping for some tips rather going in blind & possibly damaging something not replaceable 50 years ago I would have jumped in with both feet & sorted things out afterwards. I appreciate any help or tips & pointers. When I changed ground polarity last year I couldn't get to ammeter to reverse wires. I'm the only driver & even tho it reads backwards, it does tell me my charging system in working. maybe someone can recommend a manual that would have that info.

check the electrical connections from the carb to the transmission. as stated previously, fluid drive is simply a hydraulic clutch, has nothing to do with tranny function. you said you had carb rebuilt, make sure shift solenoid connections are correct.

My long trip is minute compared to all the others but it was my first one. We went from Schoharie, NY to mastic Beach, LI, NY. About 600 mis. rd trip. Took the NYS Thruway to the famed LI distressway. Other than the car getting hot (200 +) on the gauge in stop & go traffic, it never overheated, the car ran great. Kept speed at 60 MPH for majority of trip. Since it is a totally original car, Engine, drivetrain & body, needless to say, I was nervous. I believe I could have run at 65 MPH with no problem but was too nervous to. Only problem was a human error one. When filling with gas for return trip, I set gas cap on fender, was interrupted by some one asking permission to take pictures & got back in car & drove off. While in slow traffic headed for Throg's Neck Bridge, a biker pulled up & told me I had no gas cap. Called my sister as soon as I could & she went to station & found it. Unfortunately it had been run over. But I was very happy with trip & next one won't be as white knuckled.

I was surprised to see a new post on this old thread. Unfortunately because of business restraints I haven't had time to do much to car. Thankfully, it runs good, so what little use it got last year was trouble free. I may have finally hired someone to work my hardware store that I can trust & is dependable. That will free me up to put some time in on car. From all advice & info given, ( yours included), I think the easiest & least expensive solution would be to have original head milled & install with new bolts.That way I'm not guessing about what size engine head came from. I know it is original head that has never been off car. Will then play with dual carbs & exhaust as time allows. I had spoken to George Asche & he felt engine could handle that. Thanks to all for input & info.

It's shown in the picture that Don posted.

I've had success with a mix of ATF & diesel fuel. Pour in cylinders, let sit for several days & try socket & breaker bar on crankshaft/pulley nut. If it moves, I would move in both directions, a little bit in each direction until you can complete a full revolution. In worst case situation, pull head, soak cylinders with mix & use hammer & block of wood on cylinders, moving from piston to piston. Very important to use proper size block. Too small & you can crack piston. Good Luck.