dlrides

I done the same a month ago, all is good now. I saved the pattern if anyone wants it.

I done the same a month ago, all is good now. I saved the pattern if anyone wants it.

I just ordered some for a 49 Suburban. There is only about 100 lbs difference between suburban and a sedan, and that should be in the rear due to the roof. The front should be the same.

Correct ! Rubber was rationed during the war. This is a rare civilian model, only 266 produced. WPB approved to be sold to a hospital in Susquehanna PA.

Thanks for the info !

I found a company making reproductions from 20ga steel in Indiana. Very nice guy to deal with. http://agapeautoparts.com/default.htm

Found the answer to the fender opening question. Found a company called Agape Auto Parts, they make skirts and visors from 20 ga steel like the originals. They confirmed the suburban opening is the same as other '49's. I ordered skirts and visor. http://agapeautoparts.com

Thanks for the info !

Thanks for this info ! How much coil did you cut vs. drop ?

Pretty neat blog article on the race, and sounds like a lot of fun !

Anyone know if the rear fender openings are the same as the coupe/sedan ?

Previous owner painted and upholstered 20+ years ago. I'd rather drive them instead of polish them.

What kind of rack is it ?

I want to add some type of vintage looking luggage/roof rack on my Suburban, preferably one that clamps on the drip rail. The repro VW bus racks have the right curvature, but are too narrow. I also plan on some fender skirts. ) Anyone have any knowledge or experience as to type of rack to look for ? ) Are the rear fender openings on the Suburban the same as sedans/coupes ? Thanks in advance

1944 Harley Davidson UL Body work bobbed in 1951 and painted with a brush !

I've been using 15/40 Rotella in everything for years. Cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc. I know two professional motorcycle race teams, and a car rally team that pour the sponsor out of the bottles, and fill them with Rotella.

I'm addressing this very issue tomorrow, and plan on covering all the bases. ) Fabricating a carb heat shield and covering bottom with heat blanket left over from another project. ) Bought a 3'length of 2,000 deg tubing insulation from Jeg's for fuel line. ) You're gonna like this: fabricated a cover for the fuel pump out of a baked beans can, and covered with the same heat blanket. Easy to do with a 3.5" can, just cut a couple of slots for the vacuum lines and slip over the pump.

Car is negative ground. I don't know whether it was changed, or the battery was installed wrong, I've running it for months and battery has been staying charged. Putting out 6.7 volts at high idle. Since it's hooked up negative ground , does this mean the ammeter was reading backwards ?

'49 Suburban 6V system When I touch anything with electrons, it scrambles my brain ........... so bear with me ! Last week started the car, voltage regulator started clicking and ammeter jumping around then settled down and started working. Drove it several times since, same thing after start, then works properly. Pulled the regulator and found a burnt place on one of the windings. When looking for regulators I noticed some were positive ground, some were negative ground. Looked at the car, it's negative ground, so bought a Borg Warner negative ground. Previously, after starting, the ammeter would go to the discharge side until it ran for a few minutes to recharge battery, then back to zero. All the electrical on the car works great. Installed the new regulator, polarized, then started car. The ammeter now goes to the charge side ! Got out the service manual and noticed it's a positive ground system !!!!! ??? ) When charging should the ammeter go to the discharge or charge side ? ) When the car was changed to negative ground did they leave the positive ground regulator and the ammeter was displaying opposite ? ) Is the new negative ground regulator the one I should use ? I put the old regulator back on and all is as it was, just clicks a few times at first start Thanks in advance for the help, Don

Just what I needed, thanks !

I would sure appreciate it !

What is the length of the standard oil pressure relief valve spring ? I'm sorting out a quirky oil pressure issue, pulled my valve and the end of the spring is missing. Looks as if the spring has been stretched, or may have been replaced with some other spring. The spring measures 2.25", and I thought I read somewhere it was supposed to be 1.875. BTW - Can't find anyone that has a replacement spring except for ebay ! Thanks in advance !

Have a machine shop re-drill the flywheel and balance.

Great ! Sorry I didn't get back to you yesterday.

Replaced mine yesterday, easy job, some pointers: ) TDC mark on compression stroke (rotor at 7 o'clock) ) Remove top cover plate bolt on old pump to clear frame on some cars ) Prime new pump !!!!!!!!!!!! ) Align slot with mounting holes (looking at end of shaft, as pump is in car), oil ports up. ) Turn shaft counter-clockwise one tooth ) Mount new pump without turning shaft ! (may have to move rotor ever so slightly to seat slot) ) Remove spark plugs and spin motor until pressure starts to build ) Replace plugs and start