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Aaron

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Everything posted by Aaron

  1. I recently took my float to the local radiator shop and he soddered it up for me for nothing. did a good job, but mine didn't have the long cracks in it, just multiple pinholes... Aaron
  2. I discovered my carb float has pinholes in it yesterday as the truck was flooding out and had gas pouring out the bottom of the carb. Took the float out and sure enough it's full of gas. I dried it off and found two obvious spots where there are pinholes. Can a new float be purchased anywhere? Or should I try fixing this one? Ideas and past experiences are appreciated. Aaron
  3. Yes, the guages come out pretty easily. I had to undo the oil pressure line under the hood in order to pull the cluster far enough out of the dash to get access to the back of the guages. The oil line unscrews from the back of the gauge. Be carefull with the end of the thermometer line when pulling it through the firewall! The biggest problem I had was with the 'rivetts' that held the face plate and glass to the guage housing. I had to drill the face off each rivett to get them apart. If you don't need to clean and repaint the metal face that is right behind the glass, you don't need to worry about this step. If you do, you will have fun finding something to hold this thing back together! I was able to find some eylets at a hardware store and with some jerry rigging got it back together and looked good!
  4. CRAP! You are right. I didn't even notice that. Shoot! They were vinyl decals that worked well...I got them off ebay from Seller: shred-schwinnstone vazlov@earthlink.net a year ago or so... This may bother me enough that I have to tear that apart again....
  5. Just finished cleaning and restoring the guages in my '48 myself...
  6. Are the knobs the same on similar year cars too? Thought it might be easier to find at a scapyard then...
  7. I am missing the choke knob for my '48, does anyone have a spare they are interested in parting with or know where a guy can pick these up at? The makeshift knob put on there years ago is starting to crumble, and i figure I better find an original if possible! Aaron
  8. Ed, I don't think I will display it this year, but will sure try for next year. Maybe you can make it over for that one. Aaron
  9. I am finally working on getting my wipers going. Question, is there any maintenance i need to perform on this motor to get it working? I tried hooking it up to the vacuum on the manifold and it only moves slightly and then stopped working. do i need to take it apart and do anything to it? Also the switch on top seems to be stripped inside, so when you turn it, it does not 'grip' and turn the switch on the motor. any ideas on how to fix that? Seems like there should be a flat piece that slides in it that is missing?? Any other usefull info that someone has experienced that you feel would help me on this project would be appreciated! Aaron
  10. I couldn't find a welder in town that would weld on it. One guy said if I absolutely could not find a replacement to bring it back and he would try, but would not guarantee anything. I found a forum member that was generous enough to sell me an extra one he had. Aaron
  11. Guys, I am re-doing my seats in my 48 B1B right now and was able to get the bottom seat out easily, but am wondering what the trick is to get the back part of the seat out? From what I can tell it pivets from 2 points on the back so you can tilt the bottom of it outward, but I can't figure out how to lift it out of the truck. Aaron
  12. Terrill Machine 1000 County Rd 454 De Leon TX, 76444 Call and talk to Feltz (254) 893-2610 I just had them rebuild my pot and they did a nice job. $75 bucks plus shipping. Aaron
  13. Ed, thanks again for the manfiold and for taking the time to show me your projects while in the twin cities yesterday!
  14. Will an exhaust manifold from other year cars and or trucks fit my '48 B1B? Still trying to find a replacement manifold! Aaron
  15. Strike 1 on showing the cracked manifold to the best welder in town. He doesn't really want to mess with it, says there is a lot of labor involved and likely that it will crack again a year from now... This thing will make an awesome paperweight...
  16. Here is a picture of the exhaust manifold I am after. It is for a 218 B1B.
  17. Actually will be there this weekend for a Twins game!
  18. Well, it looks like I need to start searching for a replacement exhaust manifold. Anyone know of a good place to start my search or does anyone have a good extra one they would be willing to part with? Let me know, Thanks, Aaron
  19. The crack is right where this flapper thingy is which I assume is this infamous heat riser mechanism. It is of course tight and does not move. Can I just leave it the way it is or must this be fixed and loosened before I install it?
  20. Well, I pounded on a 13 mm 12 sided socket and used a air rachet and was able to get both of these bolts off! I wasn't prepared for all the anti-freeze that spilled out, but was just happy to finally get this thing off. AS you can see from the picture there is a hairline crack under the exhaust manifold. Seems like it starts from the old rusted heat riser. You guys think this thing can be fixed???
  21. Well, I worked for two nights trying to get these #!%$& manifolds off. I could get the top part of exhaust manifold to come away from the engine about 3/8 of an inch, but that was it. After several hours the intake manifold finally broke lose and I could move it a bit more... And then there they were.... staring me right in the face, TWO MORE BOLTS! The intake manifold was covering these two up. Before that I would have bet my left you know what that I had all the bolts and nuts off. Yes, I had gotten the one bolt loose from way underneath. Anyways, I slapped my socket on one of these and it is like the heads of these bolts have shrunk, because I could not get a tight fit on either one. I even tried metric and cannot get a tight fit socket on them. No way to get a wrench on them either. What do you guys suggest?? I was thinking about drilling the heads of these two bolts off and then trying to slide the exhaust manifold off. Aaron
  22. ok, another question... What tricks can be used to separate the manifolds from the engine block? I've got all the nuts off, even the 'hidden' bolt underneath. I've been trying to use a large screwdriver and hammer to try and wedge it off, but this thing is really 'stuck'! Any suggestions would be welcomed. Aaron
  23. No, right now I am only trying to remove the exhaust pipe that runs to the muffler where it attaches with two bolts to the manifold. Got the two bolts out, but can't get them separated.
  24. I did find that one, had to pull out my handy dandy mirror to see that sneaky bolt... separating the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold is giving me some grief right now. I have been trying to wedge a screwdriver between the two, any other ideas?
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