J.R.

Also, if I were to do it again along with a little taller springs I would see what the correct KYB shock would be and spend the extra for them. Monroe shocks are absolute crap now days but they are better than nothing, cheap and on the shelf at every NAPA.

Just keep in mind that it is easier to pull and reinstall the lower A arm at the spindle than it is the upper (unless there is some super awesome trick to getting the 2 bushings back in than how I did it). I did one side by undoing the lower arm and the other by undoing the upper, having never owned a mopar of this era I figured you learn by doing! Sway bar also needs to come off. The whole job maybe took an hour using a small air impact gun. (2hrs not counting my ocd with cleaning every nut and bolt I took off with the wire wheel on my bench grinder).

Update.... I did the swap on my 50 Windsor using the Moog CC850 coil springs and a pair of Monroe 5752 shocks. I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet because I am still rewiring it but I can say that it has to be better than the flat shocks and over cut coils that I took out. It was on the bumpstops before with no suspension travel in the front. Now it sits about 3" off the stops, not much but it is better than before. If I had to do it again I would probably get a taller coil for a better ride (It bottoms out pretty fast when I push on the front end) but for the price I am not going to complain. Before.. After... Not too much difference that you can tell from the pics but it is a little better in person. I do like it low but this might be too low for a good driver...

Awesome, thanks guys!!!

Great, Thanks!!! Being from the area maybe you would know. My dad has a full custom 50 Dodge and said that there is a guy up on Aurora in N. Seattle somewhere that deals in nothing but old Mopar stuff, ring any bells?

I am almost done with the dash wiring I just need to know what each of the 6 wires goto. I could trial and error and figure it out but I though I would see if anyone already knows.

A Fulton visor should work, they are pretty adjustable and run about $350 with all the brackets.

http://fenderskirtdepot.com/Chrysler/

251 flat six. Pretty sure you can find a pair of foxcrafy skirts on ebay. If not do a hoogle search for fenderskirts. There is a guy that sells nothing but nos skirts. The ones on mine are glass and came on the car and the bumpers and grill have been rechrommed at some point.

I hear ya, I'm 6'3", 210 lbs, messed up knees and a screwy neck/back. I try my best to stay out of any "new" (new as in anything newer than 76) car not only because they are all ugly but most of them are just a pain to get in and out of.

Haha, yeah Im 6'3" and have hit my head a few times getting in/out. My wife is 5'11" and has no problem.

I have the rear glass patterns made up already and Im working on the fronts now. I was just wanting to compare and see how close my measurements came out. I work for one of the biggest glass companies on the west coast so I should have the glass back in less than a week. So far it is looking like 4" in the back and 3 1/2ish in the front. It does sit pretty level though. The did lean the front and rear windows in stead of cutting them. I think it would look better with the glass cut but oh well the chop was done for the most part before I bought the car. I need to tske some better pics. This is after I installed the Ford van coils (no front shocks installed, getting some next week)....

I'm trying to figure out exactly how much the roof of our new child has been chopped so I can make some new glass at work next week. Can someone run a tape measure on the drivers door window opening and let me know what it measures? Mine in the center of the window opening is 10 1/2", I'm thinking it is a 4" chop. Thanks.

So according to this do I just put one of the 12v to 6v reducers in line on the green wire between the coil and the circuit breaker/resistor? The black wire is just to signal that the dist is firing and won't need a reducer as well, right?

I just got a pair of Moog CC850's from ebay seller partsboulevard in Hillsboro,OR for $54.19 and free shipping. I ordered them yesterday morning and they were on my doorstep when I got home from work today. I will be installing them next week in my chopped 50 Windsor. I will have before and after pics to go with the install. The current front coils were either heated or cut too much so it is bottomed out.

Yeah, I thought it looked wrong too after double checking it. I actually saved that pic you posted last nite so I could match it up. There is a place by my house that deals in N.O.S. parts and he probably has a shelf full of new starters. Old Car Parts NW, I will check tomorrow, see how many he has, whatche wants for them and post the info this weekend.

So tonight I went through the burned up rats nest of transmission wires and got that all figured out for when I make up a new mini harness to replace them. The only thing I really need to know is after I swap over to the 12v coil (AC Delco PN U515) Do I run the voltage reducer in line from the ignition side of the coil (in between the coil and the circuit breaker) before it goes into the solenoid and/or do I need to run another voltage reducer off the dist. side of the coil on its way to the Interrupter switch? If anyone is interested I did run across this article but they don't mention anything about the transmission..... http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/135_0310_how_to_rewire_1951_plymouth/

http://m.napaonline.com/Tablet/parts/PartDetails.aspx?Id=RSE2441084_0158737809 Found this starter for a 56 plymouth on napas site...

Would the finned reducer also work for the transmission? Thry are rated at 10amps.

Also, does anyone have the year make and model or part number of a 12v starter that will work on a 1950 251? I have read that a mid 50's Plymouth starter will work? I know I can get away with using the 6v starter but I would rather swap it out if I can, this car will be a daily driver once done.

The victim is a chopped 50 Chrysler Windsor with a 251 and what I am pretty sure is a M6 trans. I am installing a EZ Wire 21 circuit kit (3rd kit I have used from them and they are great), I have always had cars that were already 12v and have never had to deal with 6v part mixed in with a 12v system so I just need to clarify some stuff. I am ordering 3 voltage reducers from speedway, one for the fuel gauge, one for the wiper motor and one for the transmission. Should all 3 be the same ones or should the one for the fuel gauge be a different style? These were what I was looking at... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Electric-12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Reducer-for-Motors,15824.html I was thinking about the Runtz style but have read too many stories about them failing. The reducer for the transmission, where should it be wired in at? That leads me to my main question.....I have seen the M6 wire diagram but I just want to make sure that it is the same one for my car... Here are some pics of the trans electrics as they were hooked up (or not) when I got the car and drove it home. I thought it was a regular 3 speed and it drove great down the freeway at 65 mph. 1st gear away and up, 2nd gear away and down, and for 3rd gear I took it out of 2nd with the clutch in, listened for the "click" then dropped it back into "2nd" (away and down) and I rolled it all the way home like that and had no issues driving it like an automatic. None of the wires were hooked up going to the coil or ball and ball carb nor would I want to hook them up in their condition! I am going to rewire everything so it functions like it should safely I just need to know what wires go to what connectors on the carb and coil, there is currently no color coating on any of the wires that are left. I am no rookie at working on old cars, this is just the first time I have worked on one of these transmissions with 6v and 12v mixed. Thanks for any help...

Sorry to dig up an old post but I am rewireing my 50 windsor with a new ez wire kit and have a few questions. I saw these reducers on another site and am going to order them but I am woderring exactly how many I need? I am going to keep the stock 6v electric wiper motor, stock fuel gauge and sending unit and I also have the M6 trans. I have a new 12v Speedway heater left over from another project so that is not an issue. Will I only need 3 reducers, one for the wiper (wired into the power wire) one for the fuel gauge (wired into the power wire) and one for the transmission (wired into the power wire)? I have rewired a lot of cars but never had any 6v left when I was done so I don't want to fry anything.

As is it runs awesome and rolls down the freeway at 65 with no problems.

We just picked up a chopped 50 windsor project that runs and drives. It has the 251 and what I think is the 3 speed. The shift pattern is... Back and up - reverese Forward and up - 1st Forward and down - 2nd Neutral and clutch, heae a faint click - 3rd The thing I am wonderring is that the wires coming up from the trans to the relay on the pass side fenderwell and the wires to the switch on the top pass side of the carb are not hooked up. Could this actually be a 4 speed? Also I am rewireing it with a new harness to 12v, how should I go about hooking up the trans/carb wires for the 12v swap?