jimfenick

Bluz, The 1953 should have a emblem that says Truck -O- Matic. If you send me your e-mail I will send you a picture of the emblem.

Guys, Thanks for all of the suggestions, It helped me formulate a plan. This proved to be easy Less than 5 minutes. Here is what I did. I did the drivers side first. 1) Put the gaskets on the window the night before. 2) Laced in a thin 1/4 inch piece of nylon cord into the channel, end of the cord on the bottom of the window. 3) Poured a lot of dish soap in the channel and hit it with some water. 4) Put the glass in place from the inside, pulling it tight to the outer corner first. 5) with my left hand holding pressure from the inside (pulling out towards me on the outside) I started pulling the cord from the bottom channel, evenly. 6) Once I got the bottom I worked the side edge closest to me, then the other side, meeting the last corner, Top right for the finish. A few notes. I really do not like the gaskets from Clesters, you can see the mold marks in the outer frame and they do not look as good as original, but since I had them in the box for 6 months, today was the day to get them done. Thank you all for the great suggestions. It did really help give me an idea of how to get it done.

Hi Guys, I am back on working on the 1953 since the temp has cooled down here in Nevada. Does anyone have any experience installing the rear quarter windows? I am going to give it a shot this weekend but thought I may ask for guidance before I put them in. Thanks, Jim

Guys, Thank you all for the usggestions. I will try the cloths pin method this weekend and let you all know how it works out.

Guys, Any expertise on how to replace the cowl vent gasket? I have the vent out, looking right at the hole, new gasket is smaller than the hole.

Thanks guys. I found the whole set at Dodge Central.

Guys, I have receive the body back from the shop and mounted it on the frame. So everything is new from the ground up. It has been a busy winter. I am looking to replace the throttle/heater/choke knobs and cables. does anyone have a source?

Guys, I finally got my engine back and have fitted it into the frame. It has been a cold winter in Las Vegas so i was not in a big rush to get in the 40 degree garage. I have been looking for a shop to rebuild the distributor. Does anyone have any suggetions?

Guys, Thaks for all the suggestions. In the end, the angle grinder won the battle. I hated to do it but the threads were so bad that either way I was going to end up replacing the bolts.

I am looking for some advice on removing the rear fenders from my 1953. Phillips screw in the bed and nut on the inside of the fender, when I try to use a socket on the nut while holding the screw slide with a phillips driver, it starts to strip the phillips head. Any insight would be appreciated.

guys thanks for the info. There is no heel adjustment on the 53, only cam adjustment. I will play with it after I get the frame back and bolted up this weekend.

It has been sitting for a week, which way do turn the adjusters to loosen them?

I have removed the front axel on my B4B, obvouisly disconneted the brake lines, after cleaning, painting and putting the wheels back on, I noticed that the brakes are know locked when I went to roll it back into the garage. I am a little stummped by this one, does anyone have any sugesttions?

Finally getting out of the rust/grease. Blasted today.

Thanks guys, I ended up settling on a painter to shoot the frame, he has a high chip resistant satin that he shoots on fleet vehicles in town. I decided that my the wife may have a few words with me if I setup a paint booth in the garage . A few hundred, no aggravation!

I am sending my B4B frame to the Blaster on Monday, after stripping off every possible part, I am trying to determine if the frame was originally satin or gloss black? Does anyone know what the factory used?

Bob, Thanks, I was at it tonight and that was the same conclusion I reach before I read your mail.

Another picture, I finally dumbed down my camera to get the file size smaller.

Guys, Thanks for all the input. I am doing a complete, frame off restoration. Engine is going to the machine shop, tranny to the tranny guys, frame/body to the blaster.

I have a B4B with a Truck-O-Matic that I need to seperate before removing the engine. I am use to standard automatic transmission that you just unbolt the bell housing from the block and pull back and the shaft clears the torque convertor. Obviously this is different. Anyone have any suggestions on seperating these?

It is a B4B with a Truck-O-Matic. I have the cab, frenders and bed off so I am looking down at the engine on the frame. It looks like a pretty clean shot to get it out but I want the right lift points.

Guys, Any suggestions on the lifting points to tie the chain to for engine removal? This is my first L Block. Do you also suggest taking the tranny out at the same time or seperating them before.

Guys, Thanks for the info. I was wondering why I was feeling happy all day after seperating the line. When I get ready I will come back to you guys to redo all my guages. I am in the middle of complete disassembly. I hope to have the cab off this weekend and then off to the sand blaster for the frame.

I was trying to find out what the fluid is in the heat guage? When I seperated the line from the engine block, it has an odor of alcohol/starting fluid. Any suggestions? This is the line that goes from the engine block to the guage in the cab.

Dave, Can you give more information on the rubber mating?