morgoon52

Not sure this is exactly the right forum but I have just made a deal for a couple of pretty rough Dodge 1940's WC 51's . I haven't had more than five minutes to look at them however. They have been sitting outside with hoods off for a very long time, so I presume they won't be running soon if at all. I do have a great running Canadian 1952 230 ci from a two ton DG4 truck and its transmission. If I read correctly (I haven't brought the WC's home yet to measure anything) the Canadian 230 is 2" longer. but should bolt right in after I move the engine mounts and rad forward. Are there oil pan clearance considerations i in the 4x4 frame? I don't want to cut or change anything drastically as I hope to fix up the two ton in the future. Could I swap the 1952 230/transmission in to the WC as a working unit and perhaps change the yoke to match.

Yeah I'm using my phone to post and it's a bit difficult, not impossible but yes it's a bit out of sequence. Trying to do couple things at once I guess lol Thanks very much.

Thanks very much! Carb kit will be ordered tomorrow

I think I've lost the needle ...it rests against the metal tab on the float I presume? I didn't realize it fell out when I took the Glass bowl fuel filter off originally to clean it..it is placed just before the carb threading into the carb body That explains the flooding I think

I've had the carb apart twice now and I don't think any parts are missing I don't see how the float completely shuts off the fuel? It doesn't seem to be attached to anything that stops fuel intake, its just hinged to the body of the carb The float doesn't leak and has a metal tab that look like it would close off the fuel as the float rises but the metal tab doesn't block the inlet completely is there a stopper of sorts on the tab on the float or just a rounded metal tab? Does anyone have an exploded diagram or a good picture series?

1952 dodge 2 ton with canadian 251 all original Carb is flooding like crazy ...gas leaking out the bottom throttle shaft and around the top of lid seam area. It is dumping gas down the intake. I pulled it all apart and hot tanked it reusing the old parts I will order a kit for it tomorrow but I wondered what was happening to make it flood so badly. I will be changing the oil too It worked last year when I parked it. I just wanted to know the mechanical process behind it flooding. Thanks very much

Having no real interest in rat rods, but preferring the patina original look it sure made me sad to see such a nice cab get cut up.. That being said..to each their own... but just start with rusty stuff that is far gone first

Thanks Fargos...it sounds like a fun project.

I`m sorry it is a one ton long wheelbase and the 52 cab doesn`t need much... Part of the reason I was looking at a separate frame is that the 2 ton is a nice truck and too nice to alter the frame.. Easier to keep the 2 ton stuff...but I was also thinking I could modify the the one ton frame to 4x4, as I have a narrow set of axles here.. With an end goal of a nice low 4x4 daily driver I just wondered how different the frames are..

I`ve been chattin with a member here that has a 55 long wheelbase frame and axles that I am going to pick up in the fall. I currently have a 52 two ton long wheelbase with hyd dump that needs brakes and tires plus a whole cab resto. It was a Alberta truck so it is incredibly solid, but I think I would like the 1 ton chassis for around town etc. I would like to deliver cut lumber and pick up logs, firewood from my sawmill (which was the purpose of the 2 ton, but the 20`` tires are either hard to come by or expensive when you have to buy 6) I wondered about putting the 52 cab on the 55 frame..I`m not scared of cutting and welding etc.. Just wonderd if anyone had any frame specs, or knowlege that would help I know the big trucks have different fenders, but what else should I be aware of. Thanks very much

Hey I have been a Willys jeep guy for a long time, and I remember that they used to swap a shackle off of the old power wagons to give a 1 inch lift...2" longer shackle I guess. I have never done it, but it seems logical.

That is awesome ...nice find!

That is a lot of hard work right there...looks great!

What an awesome truck There are lots of "big" trucks going on around here lately. I'm excited to see your progress...good luck

Yes you are right this post should have went into that thread http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=33915 Could a moderator close the new thread I made one I made in my starter happy excitement, and move the info where it belongs?

I agree that truck is stunning, and the story is even better

A few weeks ago I picked up a 52 two ton I posted a video of my starter issues, my starter would just seem to over run, then grind itself into place Here is the link to that video: In the video you will hear a wee bit o' grinding when I pushed the stomp start too soon before the starter had stopped. I went to my local FLAPS and tried to order a new drive gear for the starter, but they didn't list one for my truck. I got a phone number for a rebuilder in Winnipeg, and I had a part number in a matter of minutes, but they didn't sell to the public. I ordered the drive gear through the same FLAPS and had it in two days, for 37.00 plus tax. Drive gear for an Autolite starter HCM-6106 is Wilson 61-08-4651, for my Canadian 236ci with great thanks to B-Watson and Rockwood for a definite engine id. I didn't get any pics of the install, but I had a few hiccups along the way. Seems the rebuilder used a slightly oversize bushing inside the drive gear, so I had to open that up a bit with a round file, and finish it off with a bit of sand paper, but soon it went on like butter. Everything including the bushings at each end of the starter looked great, I cleaned everything up, hit the copper bits with a bit of sand paper. I punched out a plastic spacer to put over the shaft at the brush end to take up a bit of endplay. The new drive gear wasn't as robust as the old one, but seems to be up to the job. I was working inside on the floor in front of the woodstove, (getting cold and dark in these parts now) so I had a difficult time getting the snap ring collar back over the snap ring, but with a couple of wrenches taking up the space from the drive teeth to the starter nose cone (housing screwed together). My wife and I managed to get things back together, with a happy resounding snap as the ring went back into place. I bench tested the starter in the morning and it was smooth as silk, when I finally got done wrestling the bolts into postion with 500 little turns of the wrench. I hit the key and it was smoooth as silk. I got frustrated at one point while parts hunting, I spent some time with a grinder and repointed the teeth as they were all quite blunt. I soaked the clutch for a while in gas, thinking I might try it as is and see if I could get by without a new drive gear. At one point I nearly dropped the thing off at a shop to be rebuilt, but then I got the part number and now I have the satisfaction of having done it. Here are some pics of the old part, I didn't think to get any of the new until after I installed it I have to sort out the timing and the master cylinder next...it is dry as a bone but soon I will be hauling firewood on our property. Pic at sellers house. I have been wet sanding and buffing the old paint up...I like the time worn look.

That is awesome Is that a factory conversion? Done by a Napco style company? Surplus Power wagon parts? I'm new to this Dodge stuff as you can tell.

I just got my two ton last week, so I haven't even had a wheel off yet. The PO supposedly did a brake hone and reseal a while back I have the fill cap and could take some pictures, and measurements if that helps Let me know if you find a rebuild kit for the master, as that is my next project, once I get this starter issue sorted

Yes I did slip while hovering over and pushed the pedal too soon It just runs on with no engagement if I let it stop each time I pulled the starter tonight and the drive gear teeth look pretty worn I'll post a pic of them as soon as I can tomorrow Thanks for the help

Hey that's great There is 60 years of dirt and grease covering the trans and pto, everything is a bit hard to see. I will have to remove the cover and take a look. Thanks

Yeah I over write sometimes Gonna take a crack at building a crank handle by this weekend Never done that before

Hello Here I hope is a short video of my starter issues 1952 2 ton I took the starter out and oiled the shaft, the stirrup ears were worn where it rides in the collar so I turned them 90 deg from their worn postion to give full contact Starter is not being used much as it is grinding, when I pulled the starter there were silver flakes around the hole in the bellhousing. No idea of the history or how long the starter was used this way.. From all my reading it sounds like the over run clutch is bad? It seemed to spin ok when I bench tested it, but it just won't engage the ring gear.. I think I am going to have to inspect the ring gear I don't know too much about these Dodges yet, but I am learning everyday Is a 2 ton truck flywheel and ring gear different than a 1 ton? It will take me till next weekend to be able to pull the trans to have a proper look at the ring gear. I apologize in advace for the grinding noise...I stepped on the button a bit too soon. Funny how putting a bit of oil on the stomp starter tube and shaft makes it so easy to push down

I guess I should start a new thread about my starter issues Thanks for a warm welcome

Thanks guys I am from Thunder Bay ON, and in two minutes I meet virtual neighbours from Winnipeg and MN... That is amazing.