woodscavenger

4 years ago I bought a basket case out of someones pasture. My goal was to resurrect a truck and make it a combo of old and new. Thanks to the insight, information and ingenuity of this collective group and a lot of my own elbow grease, blood (literally), sweat and tears (today) I was able to complete my goal. It took me nearly 2 years to get it legal and streetable. I blened the old with the new thanks to OldDaddy (disc brakes) and Langdons (T5 adapter). I had a great time and after driving it for a few years decided it was time to move on to another project. Today I signed the title over to a man from Montana. He was visiting Idaho on a trip, looked, mulled it over then sent a down payment. Today we completed the transaction. I hope he and "Mater" as my kids named him have a great ride, I know I did. To all of you on this bulletin board I give my thanks and hopes to continue on whether you are a traditional restorationalist or rodder or somewhere in between. You all are great!!!!

wow, didn't even kill the ram ornament. it's 5 window cab with good floor boards

Hope you have better luck than I. I used a lathe to turn a wood dowel to size but using the grease method it would not budge!!! I ended up using a sawzall and cold chisels. That was a long day.

I am just about sick. After six months running great it suddenly ran rough. I was disgusted and then got busy with work and let it sit for 4 months. Finally tested the compression and found none in 3&4. Pulled the head and saw a huge defect in the gasket between the two. Ordered a new gasket, sent the head to be machined and tonight I was chasing the threads on the block to clean them up. Every thing went well until the middle one between the 5th and 6th cylinder. The handle came loose and I obviously chased it too far because I heard this sickening metallic clink and realized that the thread chaser had dropped all the way into the headbolt hole! How in the heck do I retrieve it? Do I dare ask? Man do I feel stupid. First of all because I could have had it back on the road a lot sooner. I thought I had some internal valve problems and was scared to tackle them......now I go and do this. Do I have a 50 year old paperweight on my hands?

If you pass on it let us know. That series of truck is what I want to hot rod. Do a google search for the "Silver National: It is a tricked out K series truck. I love my PH but I really want to make good on my IHC!

My truck was running great until yesterday. I pulled away from the intersection and the engine sounded rough and powerless with some clattering noise. I nursed it to the shop and parked. It starts relatively easy but seems to have lost about 200 RPMS at idle and is rough. At high rev it seems fine but at lower RPM U get a clatter type noise and almost a ping or a pop I can hear in the carb. Any ideas? Did I lose a valve or valve spring? This truck was running so well it makes me a bit ticked off at the ol' girl.

Sorry, been gone a while. My T5 is from an S10. As posted the S10 shifter is closer to the engine. I still had to have my shift stick bent a little so it wouldn't hit my seat. I have to fab a new shifter cover for the floorboard which was easy. My ebrake is in original location with the lever but go to my blog to see details of the modifications for the newer Jeep axle and modern ebrake setup.

On my 23" block I had to have the machine shop fab them. The ones from PowerWagon website were too short. The local NAPA/Schucks were short by more than 1".

Been gone for a few days. Love the T5 but I also never drove the stock tranny so i have no comparison. As for mileage probably about 500 miles and doing great. I did not need to touch any frame modifications. I did have to create a new floorboard section. I just made a template in sheet metal and cut a new shifter location. It is closer to the seat than the original. Otherwise the T5 fit perfectly under the cross brace on my truck. I did take the tranny mount out of the donor S10 and modified it to bolt to the original crossmember. It was very basic welding and easily done. some have ssaid the T5 is light enough you dont really need it but I did it anyway. The larger ring just needs a little heat and it will slip right on then re-shrink to fit. I knew i would lose the ebrake which is why i found a new rear end. I have more modern drums, a 3.5 ratio, and adapted the ebrake cables to fit the old handle. As for drilling with the bellhousing still in I am not sure. since you are drilling and tapping I would think that would be a bear to do with it still in the truck unkess you have a lift. that is a lot of steel to drill and tap.

Sounds like a good time to review options for the conversion to a screw on filter.

The T5 works great in a truck. Love mine. you need the sleeve shown above for the TO bearing. The other bushing is the pilot bushing and the thinring goes aroung the T5 tranny shaft where it mounts into the bellhousing so there is no slop. I had to take my housing to a machine shop for the 4 new holes. Two would have been easy as they were in clean locations to drill and tap. the other two overlapped two old holes so I had them fill the old holes then drill and tap the two new overlapping holes.

actually looks darn cool

Who is the best source for the front end stuff such and kingpins, tie rods, etc?

I have radials.

This should be a fun one to watch. Looks great. Can you maching off the Ford logo????