marcello7x

My instagram is the same as my forum name here: marcello7x I don't have too many pics at the moment. I'll put together a built thread once I get back to work on it maybe in a week or so. Build threads end up eating up more time than I have at the moment.

Thanks for all the info guys! Car has been on hold while I swap the motor in my brothers camaro. Trade of labor for motor that's coming out.

Excellent! Exactly what I needed to know!

IF multiple sizes are available, how do I know which size is appropriate for my current suspension components? The info i did find refereed to diameter differences in trucks, changing mid to late year in 1950. Were the multiple diameters only something that occurred on the truck suspensions?

So I typically keep quiet and search for the answers i need, but I'm not finding it this time around. I originally planned on Fatman Dropped uprights, but reading that they are .5-.75 to high from laying frame[with bags] i decided to make my own. Not to mention cost savings and the fact that almost every other inch of the car is being hand fabricated. First question is what is the correct size of the kingpins for my 1950 plymouth club coupe. I don't want to pull the current ones out until I'm ready for final mockup with new parts prior to frame painting. Since i've read there are different size pins, would I be correct to assume the boss on the uprights would vary as well? I plan to purchase a spare set up uprights to cut the bosses off of. I see a few on fleabay at the moment but If someone has spare ones for sale feel free to PM me. How it sits aired out. Don't mind the mess or non-DOT air fittings, I would never consider driving with those. I have already had cheaper DOT fittings blow out on a daily driver.

EDIT

SOLD SOLD SOLD! @$600 incase anyone needs to judge what theirs is worth in the future. This is without accessories.

HAHA Budget is tight! can't go throwing money away on buckets!

Tried finding him for some pics and definitely too many eviltwin names on there. Maybe post a screenshot of his page?

Well its on ebay. 15min and already received an offer. A bit of a low ball but still money in my pocket. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231832791435

It is being replaced with an LS1. Figured most people here will either love or hate the idea, but its free and i know it runs great since its still in my brothers daily driven camaro. He is upgrading to something bigger and adding some forced induction. In return for helping with his engine swap he is giving me his old motor. So any money i get out of the p20 goes strait to covering the costs of finishing my build. I plan on leaving the p20 in until we finish up his swap since i need to be able to move it from the upper garage bay to the lower bay i use for storage.[2 floor garage] It would be a pain to push this down my driveway, down the street 30 yards to my lower driveway then back into the garage. Well even worse is pushing it back up my driveway later. BUT if someone buys this first for good money, its something i wouldn't mind doing. So what is the ballpark for a running driving engine? I was told it was rebuilt when i bought the car about 5 years ago, but i can't confirm it. It definitely doesn't look 66 years old. engines in my 10 year old cars look worse.

I'm deciding whether is should hold onto mine or unload it. It runs and drives, carb needs tuning since its been a bit hard to start without starter fluid. I would be selling it with the transmission. Previous owner told me it was rebuilt when the car was restored. Only thing I've done is new plugs, coil, condenser and wires in the distributor. The proect as a whole went on hold up until beginning of this year. So all the new parts are only a few weeks old. Other than this vehicle I have never owned a straight 6 and 3 speed, so im just not familiar with them enough to begin to gauge its worth. Other than checking current ebay listing of course.

Hi, Curious what the engines in these things are selling for? Anyone buy or sell one recently? Thanks!

Have you had a chance to drive it at all yet? Really curious how it handles with the rack and 5.3l and stock suspension? I'm trying to plan out my suspension and motor now. Either a 5.3l or 6.0.

Thanks for all the help guys. I was about to start tearing it all apart and remembered to check here again. Don's comment made me think. I would be in the same boat as he would with not wanting a cut-spring car if i was buying it. Never know if it was done right or not. So i left it as it was.

One more question, mine had too much dirt on it to tell. Is it just a bolt that slides through with a nut on the end? Take off the nut and hammer the bold out?

Thanks, i'll go ahead and disconnect there then. I've cut a few coils before and know what you mean, unless you have backup coils cut 1/2 or less at a time. Im going to be leaving the back stock for now, so i don't want a drastic drop. I had spring helpers in before and that alone dropped me about an inch.

This is my first post, i bought a 1950 business coupe that was suppose to become a cruiser for my parents but my mom can't do the no power steering thing. Anyways, im going to drive it around untill i finish my other project and or sell this one. I need to remove the front spring so i can cut it a little, having never worked on one of these front ends before i'd like a little direction on which point would be the best to disable to remove the spring. Here is a pic i found online, I want to make reassembly as easy as possible. I was going to try and disconnected where the upper A arm meets the spindle, but didn't get far since everything was soo coated in dirt that i spend 45 minutes scraping everything. Im going to pressure-wash everything and start then.