Floydflathead

Ok, got you. I'm actually close to West Richland. Unfortunately, like everything in the west, it's too expensive to live here. But great place for cars because of the desert. Lousy because of higher gas prices and large growth of population. For now at least.

Please explain

I'm in Richland, WA. Think you're in Oregon. If so, where about?

Definitely looking for those cables, so let me know. This 46 was produced by Budd Manufacturing. A metal plate came off the passenger door that says door was manufactured by Budd Manufacturing of Philadelphia. PA under 3 different patents. AllSteel. I also need any door latches that might be available, including the parts on body that the door latches too. I did finally get passenger door apart, and latch out and cleaned up, but what a mess, and the part on the body door can is broken. Got it functional enough. Driver door was stuck but finally got it open, but latch is probably worn out. I'm also looking for turn signal, and dash lights (clustered with high beam indicator). If like to set those up if I can find one. Next I'll get into the engine. My car has these round ashtrays attached to the back of the seats. They're rather useless, but interesting. I supposed they were used in club coupes and 2 door sedans that had folding seats.

They're working fine now, just need to fix the cables somehow. Wish I could find a good pair. Would love to see your 41 coupe

Ok thanks. After some choice words between myself and the car, I got the door latch out. Hard to clean up, but did my best. Will grease and see if I can replace tomorrow. I think these are installed first, then the window channels and window at the factory. I think this fell off the door. Interesting tag. I knew Budd manufacturing did manufacture some bodies for Chrysler. This specifically says door.

One thing I'm not sure was mentioned above. The electrical system is positive ground. Your positive battery terminal should connect to the ground cable or ground strap. I have a 40 Plymouth P9 business coupe, and others besides.

Do you know where I could such a value with chrome T handle? I finally got the lock cylinder out - slotted screw. It v works budge , but more pb blaster, the hammering, then got out the Mapp torch. Finally got things loose enough, I got the cylinder out. Not I can't figure out how to get luck cylinder out, so went back to service manual. Seems I need to remove screws from the lower window channel. I've found Hudsons are much easier to do these operations on.

Need some parts. Car had been sitting, probably decades now. Could not get the hood open, the pull cable was completely fused and pb blaster didn't work. Latches also almost stuck together like asphalt from old grease. Finally got it apart, but cables are broken and I need good used or NOS if anyone knows where (I know, dream on) Here's sine pictures of broken cable got one pair of latches repaired and cleaned will grease tomorrow and install. I'll see if I can rig some kind of pull wire for now. Also, doors don't work. Trying to take latch out. Can't see how to get lock cylinder loose so I can get latch out. Any help on that is appreciated.

I think it is pried off. Use plastic tool

I've just repaired one of these electric clocks for my 46 Dodge business coupe. It needs a lot of resto work yet. But I was sick of having the clock sit around. And for after it since I'm repairing kitchen clocks and grandfather clocks. Couple of questions: 1. Does anyone know where to find correct balance wheel and hairspring for clocks that need those replaced (electric and windup are different sizes) ? Also contacts for the electric clocks. 2. In this 46-48 clock, I need to know the lengths of the three wires. I know the power wire has an inline fuse. The other two wires are for light and ground. Assume ring connectors on each end. Assume light wire connects to dashlights on switch, while power for clock goes to circuit breaker on the back of light switch. Anybody have this info? Thanks!

Paint chip. To see the color, got the the next set of paintchips (page 4), card number 463 as the link suggests. http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/chipdisplay.cgi?year=1946&manuf=Chrysler&smodel=DeSoto&info=&page=3

http://www.lov2xlr8.no/brochures/mopar/46dess/46dess.html

Pretty difficult to find the info. Here's what I think, you can confirm some things. Model 112 1948 S-11 Custom (a guess, model 111 would be the standard -- the VIN number would reveal which it is) Body 5 4 Dr. sedan (just a guess, don't know what your body style is for sure) Paint 314 Gem Green Sure on this Trim 909 Green Broadcloth upholstery Sure on this TR 2 3 spd transmission with Fluid Drive (a guess -- the other choice is the Tip Toe semi automatic trans. Would have a kickdown switch) Schedule 511 Not sure how to decipher. This is the production date. Could be 511th day, means very early 1948 model then. Item 3202 Not sure, maybe order number Body number 69365 Briggs built the bodies I think, so this is their number HR (empty) Not equipped with factory heater SG (empty) Probably special or Solex Glass, not so equipped on this car RD (empty) Radio, car not equipped with radio AR (empty) THis may be air conditioning, car not so equipped. Was offered on the 1942 models, probably extremely rare WW (empty) May mean wide whitewalls. Car not so equipped. Not sure about the other codes. Someone should jump in and correct the mistakes I may have made. WOuld like to know the other codes myself. This car seems to be a pretty basic one with relatively few options. Let us know what it actually has on it.

Interesting comparison. Here's the C3B truck I have, 1/2T short box. It was a six originally but has a V8 in it. I thought this one was also originally a 6 because of the round hood ornament.

I have listed an ad under classifieds for a 1955 C3B for sale. Check it out. [sharedmedia=classifieds:items:775]

Sorry, for some reason I missed all of this discussion. Haven't been on for a while. I did buy some horn rings off ebay, but none of them were correct. The 5th Aven cigarette horn ring is DIFFERENT than the Custom horn ring, which in turn is different from a Deluxe. I do have the correct number off of the broken original I have. A lot of people are selling these on ebay and marking them as 42-48, but 42 is different. The covers that go on the bottom part are different (2 small spokes on 42, while 46-48 has a cover over those spokes, and hence they are made a little differenly. The most important difference is that the 42 5th Ave steering wheel with cigarette dispenser, and the 46-48 Customs have the "long" center steering ornament, which uses the "short" arms for the steering ring. As shown in that ebay picture above. The 42 Deluxe horn ring has "long" arms to the center hub ornament as that ornament is much smaller. The Deluxe may not have had a horn ring, I'm not sure. If it did, it is the longer type arms for it. The other difference which helps spot 42 vs 46-48, if the horn ring is in reasonably good original condition, is that 42 rings were painted RED in the centers, while 46-48 were painted BLACK in the centers. Look at the piece above. It is black. I've checked this out with Donald Narus' book on Chrysler dashes of the late 30s through 40s. He gives the numbers for all of these steering wheel parts there. He did not have the correct ones for 1942, and I provided him the info I had for when he updates his book. Be careful, some of the guys selling stuff on ebay are positive that their 46-48 horn rings work for 1942, but they DO NOT. The 5th Ave was relatively rare. It's not the common horn ring that a 42 Desoto would be found with. In a pinch, the more common 46-48 horn rings would probably work for that, but that's not what I'm looking for. If anyone wants the numbers for these parts, let me know.

Does anybody have a 1942 DeSoto Custom model Horn Ring? I have the numbers for it. It looks like the 46-48, but with some minor albeit important, differences. I have a NOS 46-48 horn ring I'm willing to trade for a decent 42 version. 1941 had a "half" horn ring, while 42-48 had the full horn ring. The Deluxe vs Custom Steering wheels are completely different for those years however. Looking for Custom. Of course, at one point in time, someone put all their weight on the top part of the horn ring in my car and broke it off completely. I have the parts, but because they are diecast, pretty difficult to repair.

william, you're right, it's a C3B. Your truck looks like the V8 version, beautiful. I'm probably going to regret selling it later if I could make it as nice as your truck!

C1B, 1/2T lowside box I was laid off in February and so I have no choice but to sell some of my cars. I wanted to go through and restore this truck, but just won't be able to get to it, and though it's up in the air, I may have to move, so better that it finds a new home now. I think the truck has sat now for about 5-6 years, but I am told it did run (I got it last year). It has what I think is a 1964 318 V8 Poly engine in it; originally it was a flathead 6. The truck was originally green. I live in Washington state, and I'm asking $3000 for the truck. The only major damage is the driver side rear fender. The front clip got taken off to get at the serial number on the truck. I do have a title. Send me a PM with your contact info, and I'll respond. I hope that this can go to someone that can restore it properly, so this is where I decided to start advertising it.

YOu came to teh proper conclustion on the only way to do it. That's exactly what the manual tells you to do. I also gives instructions on how to remove the radiator and fender unit, but why go that way? A lot more work.

Service manual instructions for 1940: Remove hood and water pump assembly. Disconnect the engine water outlet hose. Bend back the clips which hold the headlight wires to the radiator core. Disconnect the core from the radiator support and lift out the radiator core.

Like your coupe, I have a 46 which is almost identical. When you thaw out send more pictures! What will you do with your car?

Merle, As I stated above, title was on engine number (engine replaced by someone some time ago; no longer with truck). VINs used for titles were commonly issued based on engine number in those days. Obviously i have to go with another number. This truck is stock except for the engine/tranny swap. I can't imagine anyone going to the trouble to obtain an entire new cab and box or frame to repair a wrecked vehicle; it would just go to the salvage yard I would think, unless it happened at the factory. I didn't think it out of the question that a 55 earlier frame could be used with a cab that had been built in late 54. The cabs/boxes were identical as far as i'm aware. Anyway, it's a mystery. Can one obtain factory build sheets on these trucks to verify the numbers? Are any of those records available?