norville

Good Idea Niel, but It has an aftermarket head on it, no pipe plug hole.

I agree on all points there Al. I won't know if the 218 is a 218 until I pull the head. I need an exhaust so I might as well do the duals and hopefully only do it once. I know, I know a lot of questions , I'm just trying to wrap my head around it all.. And I will have to get a hold of George , unfortunately he's about 5 hours away I'm in the north East. PO stated the car is drivable but grinds between 3-2. I figured I'd kill two birds one stone, good tranny and OD. I think I need to concentrate on the brakes, suspension and exhaust. Make it road worthy and worry about the rest later. It's an easy job swapping intakes. I live near a antique junk yard maybe I will find something there. I know there's a few OD tranny's laying around there's also a van full of driveshafts..

I did consider that but felt it was a little to advanced for me... I've never pulled one of those trannys apart. I'll start looking up info on that. It may be a good option. I read some folks were having issues with ECI dual master cylinder conversion and fitting it in the same spot with the fluid drive? Is that true? I have to do the rubber lines on it and thought about doing discs but the price is adding up. I will do a dual master. I just don't trust single pots..

OK I'm armchair quarter backing here and from my reading the Plymouth and dodge have different mounting hole locations on the bellhousing. I understand the dodge fluid drive bells are much longer. It sounds like its not just a matter of moving the dodge mount forward...hmmm that a bit disappointing. It's tempting to just move to a T5 or I have a few ford toploader OD's here... http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=9767&highlight=crossmember I'll have to head to the junk yard and look around. Any idea what years I'll need? thanks bob

Hello again all, I'm looking for opinion and insight on two drives line for a 51 dodge coupe. The drivetrain in it has unknown miles , Runs great, no smoke. Most like rebuilt once in it's lifetime. The fuid drive 3 speed is having some shifting issues between 2-3 maybe a syncro or linkage. It will need exhaust work. The "new" drive train I picked is a 46-48 plymouth, most likely a 218. It has an edelbrock head, Edmunds dual carb setup with a pair of B&B's and cast dual exhaust. The tranny is a non fluid drive 3sp OD R-7. It was supposed to be pulled from a running vehicle last year. It looks 99% complete. I do no know the mileage but I pulled the exhaust and intake and it looks clean in there. I had two thoughts, pull the entire dodge driveline and swap complete for the plymouth. Do exhaust (have to anyway), driveshaft mod, possible pilot bushing issue, and linkage mods. Or slowly over this spring move over the performance parts and next winter swap over the tranny. Will I be giving up any seat of the pants feeling from the 230 to the 218. I'm only assuming the plymouth is a 218 I cannot check unless I pull the head. Again exhaust, linkage and driveshaft. I'd really like to get seat time before it's all torn apart. There are a few items I would need to address immediately. That's before any of these engine mods take place, it does need an exhaust. thanks bob

Thank you all for the help. Everything is fine in side, just very, very stiff. Possibly the cold. I drained the oil and I put everything back together. So I'll start searching now but whats the lube of choice, I have 80/90 and 135 on the shelf? bob

Is it only 4 bolts to remove the cover? What about the 2 large bolts? good news is the oil looks clean to medium dirty

I've been searching for a while now and I'm just not finding what I need. My tranny is not shifting correctly. It's out of the car so it's not a linkage issue. It's in neutral now I think. The forward lever is really tight and the back/second lever is real loos and moves with no resistance? Will pulling off the cover reveal anything? I have a bad feeling something is wrong in there. I'd really like to know how it works before I tear into it.

that's a great idea...

thanks that's a great thread: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=29421&highlight=Lockout+Switch Know this If I cannot find it I think I can fab up most of that stuff. I think a throttle cable bracket might work, I may have an old shifter I can break up for the "arm" and I can drill a hole in a bolt... excellent. bob

here's a pic of my tranny. Looks like I'm missing both arm and bracket. And some brake parts...

Thanks Ed, that's what I was told.

Thank you all for the warm welcome. I'm working on a manual right now. BobT thanks for the link, That's a good starting point. At least I know what the lever looks like. From my searches (overdrive gives about 1000 pages) I'm consuming a lot of info. I think my tranny is out of sync shifter wise. At least that's what used to happen with my ford. I'll need to play some more with it. I'm not planning to use the solenoid kickdown, I just want to use the OD gear on highway drives. thanks again for the input, future posts I'm sure will be coming...

Hello all, I'm new here and I recently picked up an engine and tranny for a future project. I could use a little help on both. The engine is a 50's flathead plymouth and the tranny is a R-7 OD unit. I was given some cables for the tranny but no cab lever or actuator lever on the tranny. I have searched around but I cannot find a good image of how the OD lever works?? Or how these cables work or if they are even for the tranny. Also if someone could help me understand which way the levers on the tranny move to shift gears that would be helpful also. The tranny almost feels locked . I cannot move the clutch by hand but that be normal. But I cannot move the tranny levers. the engine is a pI5804536 any idea on the year of manufacture? thanks bob