Tim Keith

The main caps were already stamped with a number, but since they're cracked - doesn't matter. This motor has probably been rebuilt. The SAE bellhousing is tricky to remove with the motor stuck. I'll get it off tomorrow. Someone may want this b/h. Should I save it for some special application? Its got 12 bolts on the back, not sure of the diameter. The flywheel doesn't have a clutch surface, or maybe it does - maybe its two-piece, but the exposed surface at the rear is cylindrical with a splined coupler.

Its got a huge flywheel, which has proven difficult to remove with the motor stuck. I will lift the entire crankshaft out tomorrow, the flywheel bolts on from the front. I was told that the motor came out of the Ditch-Witch or similar large trencher. Some of the pistons can move, maybe all of them, but I could not turn the crankshaft. All the journals look good.

The #2 AND #3 main caps are cracked near the bolt hole on the passenger side. If I used the block I'd need new caps. Is this a known problem on the 265? The bearings and crankshaft looks okay. The copper head gasket isn't solid. There is a fibrous core with thin copper on both sides.

I removed the head. Its got a copper head gasket. I assumed that the copper would be green by now but its as shiny as a penny. The motor has the tower style oil filter that 265s have. If I can separate the block from its bell housing then I want to get the motor. I've read that the SAE bell housings are useful to some folks, so I might get that as well. The motor is stuck. A good way to free stuck motors is clean the cylinders with a solvent, blow it out with compressed air - especially down around the top ring, clean cylinders some more. Then, use a product like Rust Rescue or Evapo-Rust. These products can't remove oily material - using solvents first helps a lot. These products won't harm aluminum, but I'd be using new pistons anyway.

I thought propane might have slighter higher compression from the factory. I'm sure if it does have a bit more compression, that the engineers didn't hurt breathing. I don't know if the motor is good yet, looks like its been outside for years. Its connected to what I think is a Dodge truck 2 speed differential with short 14-inch axles and chain sprocket for hubs and a PTO - some type of transmission with two levers - one must be a clutch. I couldn't get the bell housing separated, it has what looks like a round SAE type bell housing.

Do propane industrial flatheads have higher compression?

Thanks! I think it might be stuck - exhaust manifold is broken. Its got the power system with transmission/clutch - which I don't recognize. I may attempt to get the rotating assembly. I've got a couple 265 rotating assembles in my parts collection. Its just that its 100F and humid in south Texas and its sitting outside. I think it was run on propane so if its not stuck it might be a good shape.

I have found a Industrial motor, IND-32 type 233. Does anyone know the displacement. The head is 25 inches long.

Chrysler/Plymouth Flathead rebuild part 5

Chrysler/Plymouth Flat head Rebuild

This video posted yesterday by user Myvintageiron7512

I did not know the starters were hard to find. I think the rear axle is a 3:54:1

The motor had fully grooved main bearings. Was this stock ?

Included is a Fluid-Drive unit, plus a regular flywheel, plus a manual 3 speed truck transmission and a semi-auto transmission. Seller said the manual transmission is for a 1937 truck. I plan to use one of George Asche's 833 o/d adapters