Broke4speed

What would you like for the fenders? I'd need both (and the headlight bezels ). Some half-assed repairs in my car's past have left gaping holes and thick bondo on mine .

Oooh, willing to sell the headlight trims? I've got a busted one .

Finally got my factory repair manual for my 1954 Plymouth Savoy (P25), and answered a question for myself that I couldn't find the answer for. I love searching for stuff, but must have missed the answer, because I couldn't find it. Front track: 55 7/8" Rear track: 58 7/16" This means an S-10 front clip is only 1 3/8" narrower (total) than stock, not the 3"+ that I've read about on the earlier models. Definitely gives me something to think about, as I was looking at the Fatman M2 stub setup...but not digging the cost. I apologize if this is old news, or a sore subject...but I'd like to put the info up in case anyone else is searching for the same answer.

Engineers think too much.

Ok, I don't have any stuck engines...but I now have something to try for myself in a dangerously adolescent way .

Yep, I'm one of those sick people that actually ENJOYS cuddling up with a multimeter for a few hours of tracing and troubleshooting. My experience with Megajolt ignition was on my 1983 Rabbit running a 1.8 8v with dual sidedraft carbs. For a while, I was running the factory electronic ignition, with decent results. The carbs were emissions-spec Dellortos, with a great idle/cruise circuit. It would idle well (stock-ish cam), get 25-30mpg, and made great power/tq (105whp/119tq). When I switched to Megajolt...everything changed. By switching to coilpacks, I could lean the idle out by a full turn and a half on the mixture screws, and still have a smooth idle. I liked to set the idle at 1200 to help overcome a flat (lean) spot off idle due to the emissions carbs, and I found that I could set my idle back to stock and still eliminate the flat spot. I had my plugs gapped at 0.050", and managed to get 32-34mpg . For S&Gs I decided to put in the Colortune, and the mixture color was bang on, even with the changes to the screws.

So I'm not crazy then. That switch on the dash really is for turning off the dash lights independently of the headlights. Quirky .

I love discussions like this. I had never thought about using the hydraulic pressure method of unseizing an engine. I've had good luck in the past with ATF and a chunk of wood, on old VW Rabbit engines...but I think the steady pressure method would be wicked to try. I know of a DeSoto 291 Hemi that's frozen tight...cheap too...

More true than you know. We usually end up getting the parts-bin specials, or the 'unique' to Canada models...which means zero aftermarket support.

No easier way I guess, just a lot of available time. I've got a 21 circuit (way overkill, but it was only $20 more than the 12 circuit) 12v harness kit, and a sick love of wiring work. I work painfully slow, tackling one thing at a time, so I figure it'll take a while to do.

Lol, good points. It will have an alternator, a points-delete dizzy (have a six-window pertronix here I've been dying to use), and disk brakes up front. This all falls into the modern-ish upgrade plans, and I've already acquired the harness/fuse box. Now, again, I'm not knocking the 6v system. It's plenty fine to use in a car like this, and can be just as reliable...but it's not the way I want to go this time around. When I build a car, I do it to be as simple and as 'replaceable' as possible...without ruining the original charm. 12v wiring is a simple job, and can be 'hidden'. It won't be a concours car, so no harm in adding a bit of mid-late 20th century electrical work . (Not to dig my own grave a bit, but I am also a big fan of Megajolt distributorless ignition. I happen to have a unit here that would allow me to run coilpacks from a later model car, and provide a fully mappable ignition system. I've used it on other carbed cars, and the change in the way the car runs is amazing.)

I dig that car! The upholstery was done years back, by one of the previous owners. It doesn't tweak me wrong or right, so it'll stay on the merit of being one less thing I have to do, lol. Another Q: I found the block ID number, can anyone shed some light? P25 2 20796C. Obviously the P25 is Plymouth Savoy/Belvedere/Plaza, and the 2 is for club coupe, but I can't find any info on the rest of the numbers. Perhaps I've just searched too generally on the forum, my apologies if it's sitting under my nose and I've just missed it.

Oh, I understand that a 6v system can be just as reliable as a 12v. The conversion is more for simplicity's sake. While I am not building a mega dollar street rod, it does need to be 'modern-ish' in the event that it breaks down while in my father's care. It'll be a shared car, and while I trust my own work...if something were to happen to the car while my dad is on a road trip, it needs to be fixable by one of those early 20s parts-changers that pass for mechanics these days. The flatty, fine, parts can still be purchased over the counter...but getting some kid fresh out of college to troubleshoot a 6v positive earth electrical system would be my worst nightmare. I'd never hear the end of it from my pops either. He's finally accepted the fact that I actually know what I'm doing with these 4 wheeled tinkertoys, I'd hate to have to live down a shorted out wire that I didn't replace .

Red tag on the generator...6v it is! This may be blasphemous, but I will be rewiring the car with an aftermarket 12v neg-earth kit. I do not trust a 57 year old canadian salt-belt automotive wiring, especially since my Dad will be one of the principal drivers...and he's not very mechanically inclined . He wants to build this car with me, so I'll be taking the opportunity to teach him about cars. Now...hopefully he listens better than I usually did. I don't think his old skull can take the cuffs I used to get for not paying attention .

I actually live in south east Ontario, near Ottawa. It's a heavily agricultural area, and this car spent some time in a barn before I found it (as the old story goes). I am generally not a fan of the 50's body styles, but I adore the styling of this generation of Chrysler/Des/Ply/Do product. Made my wife happy too, because she has wanted me to build a 50's car for a while now. Made it easy to justify the purchase .

Awesome, I'll check the tag on the generator tonight. I haven't given it a good going over yet, as it's been a busy summer. I hope to get to it soon, and push it out of the garage for an inspection. I know the driver's floor is invisible, and there are a couple of holes near the headlights...as well as some iffy patches in the rear quarters . I love working with metal, so it's a good chance to learn some new skills I guess. It was repainted a few years back, and the upholstery completely redone. The interior alone was a selling point for me, as I HATE working with foam and fabric. The paint is base/clear, with the clear peeling off...so I'll be addressing that eventually as well. For the moment, my plans change daily, but I think the stock engine will get a shot at life before any big plans take over. The only consolation I may make in that regard is to switch to an electronic ignition setup, such as Megajolt (probably a bit too modern) or a Pertronix-style distributor modification. Thanks for making a newb feel welcome! I'll put up a few more pics as a thank you . These are all I have, and work blocks photobucket, so I hope they're decent.

Awesome, thank you for the quick replies! The casting number at one point let me to believe it was a 218, so I guess I'll wait until there's a need to lift the head before I measure the bore. Now...anyone know if the 54's are 12v or 6v? I've read that in 53 they switched to 12v, but my car didn't come with a battery so I can't tell. Are there any clues to a 12v car vs. a 6?

Hello all! I recently acquired a 1954 Plymouth Savoy Club Coupe, with an unseized inline 6 that's crying out for resurrection. I've noticed mention of the version of the L-head that was used in Canadian Plymouths, so I decided to measure mine. Sure enough, it's 25". I found a bit of info on Allpar that stated it was 228ci, but that's it. Is there anywhere out there that I might find more info on these engines? I'm in the middle of searching, but let me tell ya...there's a lot to go through here, lol. I'm kinda tickled by this, because I've found a couple of Chrysler 265s up here, in old boats, and I was contemplating the swap. Having a long engine under the hood already will make it a LOT easier . A pic for interested parties: