curtiswyant

Hi all, doing brakes on my '49 Dodge coronet...it is quite the adventure Anyway, the "minor brake adjustment" cam for the rear shoe on the passenger side is broken; when turning the bolt from the rear, it just spins and does not turn the cam. Any ideas on a quick fix? I'm thinking I could drill a hole or two in the cam and use needle-nose pliers (from the "front" with the drum removed) to turn the cam?

Oh, and I haven't had it out on the road yet, it's only idled in the garage for a few mins...

Thanks guys, I'll try resetting the points. I think I had 'em at .020 before. Could I have crossed a plug wire or two?

'49 Dodge Coronet. I'm getting a little smoke when the car is running. I hope it's just condensation from sitting, but I have been doing a tune-up/adjusting points/etc so maybe I messed something up? Car has new points, condenser, cap and rotor, plugs and plug wires. It seems to idle a little rougher than before the tune-up, and it's spitting a little water out of the exhaust. It seems to be running rich as the smoke is "thicker" than what I would expect from just condensation. I'm thinking maybe a carb rebuild is in order? I adjusted the points to .030...sorry for the rambling and incoherence, any help would be appreciated. Also, I get a little smoke coming from the breather after the engine is shutoff.

Hi, doing front brakes/etc on a '49 Dodge Coronet. This is my first "experience" with this type of brakes, so bear with me. I've looked up the threads about making your own adjustment tool, and also the instructions for adjusting without the tool. I'm assuming that both methods have the same end goal, but the non-tool method just involves installing/removing the brake drum a million times. Is a DIY brake tool the way to go?

I don't have the car in front of me, and I actually don't even have it at my house yet to really examine it, but I'm wondering if you could remotely activate whatever the carb does with a mometary switch or something similar. It seems like the transmission auto-shifting is more reliant on the carb LINKAGE and not the carbs themselves, or I could be completely wrong. My understanding is it will shift in/out of overdrive ranges either when the gas pedal is let off (upshift) or floored (downshift). So if the activation comes from something electrical outside the carb, I'd be in business, but if it's internal to the OE carb, then they would have to stay.

Hi all, I am the proud new owner of a 1949 Dodge Coronet, flat 6 and gyromatic transmission. I have a few questions. Would the craaaaazy Gyromatic solenoids/relays work with 12V? If I ran non-stock dual carbs (Holley 94s, 2G's etc) how would the Gyromatic behave? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.