Powerhouse

Can anyone tell me if the 55 sender was different from 56 or later...as in 6v vs 12v? I found that ts528 is 6v and ts527 is 12v. I hope that is correct. I should have just bought the next years setup though. Oh well...

Sorry typo. I meant 55

Thanks all. I am in the process of making an electric temp gauge to fit in my 39. I've had enough of the capillary tube types busting and replacements are way too pricy. I have been able to get a nicer 55 dodge electric gauge cheap enough and replace the face with my 39's. I have trimmed the mounting plate of the gauge to match the 39 as well. The sender is a Napa 6164 which is supposed to be for the 55 dodge. I am running 12volt now so I needed a voltage drop.

Anyone know if an IVR for fords would work for dropping 12 to 6 volts for gas and heat gauge in a 55 dodge? Like this http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=281469368054&fromWatch=true

They have a nice search function. I still cant find for a IGS-4101 though. http://www.pertronix.com/support/ignitor-kit/ seems like chryslers are 2563LS and Plymouths are 1362

I found those cam bearings too right away on a simple google search. The rod bearings are not made under that number anymore. Vandervell still exists at www.vandervell.co.uk They make racing bearings now under the old name. A guy named Alan helped me out and couldn't find any specs but that they were listed for a 50's chrysler product. No other info was available.

Yes. I emailed a few times with them and they have no idea what they are.

See if you can get some 100 octane from shell. That ought to show you a big difference. Ethanol in gas is a problem when it comes to not wanting pinging/detonation due to less octane. From what I've found out, ethanol allows for easy pinging. I have had a similar issue. I tried some shell 100 and it was much nicer. But since it runs about $9 a gallon I think I'll change the head back to a stock one. Just have to find one without a hump. I have two of those.

Thanks. These are a real mystery.

Anyone have a cross ref book that tells what the heck a set of vandervell rod bearing 1899m is and fits? No box just part number and logo on back of shell. Supposedly they are mopar. I have searched for days and also contacted vandervell but they have no way to tell. Thanks in any case.

New cc I got was about 100cc with one at 104cc. I used bearing grease and pressed the 1/16 inch plastic sheet down till it was as flush as possible. No leaks at all which I might have had the first go round. I averaged 100cc this time. One was about 104. It was about 65deg F and I used water.

I was able to cc the head and got 120cc. I have to edit the original number of 120 I mentioned above. I made a mistake. I did the procedure in a better environment and with better sealing. I got 100 to 105 across all .

Only a few places around that have 100 (Shell unleaded of course) and up. Not easy to find in CA. And only 8.89 a gallon...

I did some reading and found that some say to just change the cam for better running with todays crappy fuel. In Kalifornia we do not have easy access to real gas. Any thoughts on cam change from stock? or whatever's in there...

Hello all, I was able to text with Tim K and he was a wealth of knowledge on the subject. Thanks much Tim! I will be able to get mor emeasurements soon but am busy with a few other things around the house before I can go play in the garage. hahaha I did however have a chance to pull the motor apart. Figured the block is 5/19/54 dated and the head is late 53 dated. Block hasn't been milled from the looks of the seat dimples (that sounds funny). I spent most of friday night and saturday removing what was left of the water tube. Did a pressure wash to the interior afterwards to remove lots of crud and water tube fragments. Man what a mess. I will hopefully get some time to do the cc stuff soon.