ratfinkxxx

Not sure. Very little info on this car.

Ever heard of it?

http://dudleysportster.com/main/main.htm

http://dudleysportster.com/pictures/dudley11.JPG

You could run wheel spacers.

I just received my kit from TSM Mfg. Have not started the install. These kits use the original hubs.

https://www.tsmmfg.net/

Thanks to all who responded. I ended up ordering a kit from https://www.tsmmfg.net/.

Had been out of stock for months but now available.

Kit uses stock hubs and fits a wide variety of early Mopars.

I just ordered my disc brake kit from https://www.tsmmfg.net/

These kits use your original hubs.

I have been in contact with David since early August.

The kit for my 36 is finally available again.

Total with shipping is $660. Includes brackets, rotors, calipers, hoses and hardware.

I'll post an update when the kit arrives.

I want disc brakes on my 36 P2. I am having little to no luck. P2 seems to be a bastard child for brakes.

Rusty Hope website is confusing to me. I have read of some RH customers having issues with their kits.

TSM mfg. shows a kit that fits 35-42 but no inventory due to supplier delays.

Scarebird does not offer a kit but has one for 35-36 Dodge.

I emailed Mark at Scarebird. His response was "I do not know nor have the manpower to find out - sorry.

Which is fine, I guess.

The part numbers for 36 Plymouth knuckles are 645067 right side and645068 left.

Can anyone tell me the part  numbers for the 36 Dodge knuckles?

Any help would be most appreciated.

You could run matching pairs front and rear.

bluecarsedan I asked a specific question about the build.This is a budget build. My car is a rust free survivor. Brake upgrades will be addressed. I feel the suspension is more than adequate to handle highway speeds. I wish I had $50k to throw at a car. My goal is a car that could have been built in the 60s. The way it used to be done. Thanks for your reply.

Ranger 8.8 rears are going for $350 here. I bought a rebuilt 350 for $700. Got a used GM reman 700R4 for $400. Can't find 230s. I have tried. Even if I could the a trans upgrade would be necessary to run highway speeds. I'm going the cheapest route I can to get a decent driving car. Based on what I have read here I will run the stock rear. Thanks to all for your input.

Swapping in a mild small block with o.d. transmission. Will the stock rear end hold up under normal conditions?

Thank you to all who responded.

Thanks Sniper. Again. You truly are a Zen Master.

I have seen a pic and part number on the forum to adapt the stock differential to use a modern u joint. I believe it was Dana-Spicer. Thought I had saved it but danged if I can find it. Thanks in advance. Terry

For anyone who has never been the fairgrounds is a beautiful location. Lots of shade and grass. I haven't been since I moved south but it is a fantastic event.

Ya might get a reserved parking sign erected at the pullout.

@1949 Plymouth any update?

Gotta wonder if you received the wrong part. Right outer and left inner appear to be the same part number. Did those two ends match?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1948,windsor+series,4.1l+251cid+l6,1486762,steering,tie+rod+end,7428

Check for spark?

I have a knock at very low rpm. I just turned up the idle speed.

On 4/17/2021 at 9:58 PM, michaelmarks697@yahoo.com said:

Primo. Ratty but not "Rat rod" Im expecting to see Broderick Crawford from HWY Patrol pour out of that thing

I was thinking Joe Friday.

Thanks kh. I guess it's among the missing parts.

I went to look at the car and did not see the hood  release. Not familiar with these and don't know if it is missing or not. There are several empty holes in the dash. Car appears to have been sitting a loooong time and is full of old creature nests so I didn't really dig around. TIA. Terry

Thoroughly read the instructions. Do not run the washer without a water source hooked up. The pump will burn out very quickly.

Main caps have nuts on studs, not bolts.