Standing Elk

Need a RH windshield for my 48 B1C. Who has the best price and availability? Thanks

Pretty nice looking 1948 B1C on e-bay.

Is there a trick to stopping oil from seeping around the bottom of the breather tube where it goes into the block? Got everything all cleaned up and found that I now noticed a little seep here. Also I have another question. I have been using a Wix sock type oil filter element that is suppose to be correct for my 48 B1C. As is common knowledge it is slightly oversized making it really hard to get down into the canister. I see reference to a Fram cartridge type filter # C134PL that is also listed as correct. Does anyone have any input on this? Thanks Steve

I replaced the wheel cylinder on the right front of my 1948 B1C pickup. Shoes and drums both looked good and the cams turn as they should. I cleaned everything up put the new break cylinder on, replaced the break drum, adjusted the cams so that both the front and rear shoes just contact the drums with very light resistance, I could still easily turn the hub. After I got it bled I got ready to take it for a test drive. Before I got out of the shop I noticed that when I used the breaks, the right front break wanted to hang up but would release as soon as you back up. I tried this several times with the same results. After getting it to release I jacked it up and the wheel spun freely. I next applied the breaks and then went back out to turn the wheel. As before the break wanted to drag. However as soon as I turned the wheel backwards the break released and the wheel spun freely again. Is there a chance that the return spring is maybe getting weak? Any other ideas? Thanks Steve

It has been in the single digits and teens here for the last couple weeks. I needed to move my 48 out of the shop to do some other work. It is still 6V and had not been started in awhile. I was not sure how much luck I was going to have getting it started. I pulled the choke out about a fingers width, pumped the gas peddle three times and hit the starter. She turned over about three times and was running. I gave her a little pat on the dash in appreciation. Nothing like having everything just right.

I need to replace the rear main on my 48 B1C. Do I need to plan on removing the engine to do this? Thanks

I had the same problem and come to find out I had one arm that was incorrect. Check to be sure the arms and motor are compatable.

Had the 48 on a road trip yesterday. It ran like a top except when i would make a hard turn to the right it would act like it wanted to run out of fuel. As soon as I got through the corner everything world be fine again. I am suspecting float level but thought that I would run it by you guys and see what you thought.

thanks fellas i sort of figured something like that

is there a way to keep the steering wheel from making your hands black? in the old days i dont remember this being a problem. maybe my hands were usually already dirty from work and i just did not notice lol. i have cleaned the steering wheel with several cleaners and the black still comes off. any cures for this?

Got the new front springs on the 48 this morning. Perfect fit from St. Louis Spring. Now he doesn't droop in the front end anymore. If anyone is contemplating buying a set of springs from St. Louis Spring I can highly recommend them. They did me an excellent job.

Is there any source for a set of after market door panels for my 48 B1C. Roberts Motors offers them but only as pare of the complete interior kit. Thanks S.E.

I just received a set of new front springs for my 48 B1C from St. Louis Spring. I noticed that they have a threaded insert (bushing) in the eye on one end but nothing in the eye on the other end. Since my truck isn't here right now I cannot look to see if there is suppose to be anything in the other eye of the spring or not. Just curious if they forgot something. Thanks S.E.

Does any one have a latch assembly for the RH vent window for a 48 B1? Thanks

Who sells the heat riser rebuild kits that are mentioned in the tech section? Thanks S.E.

What is the threaded stud that is just above the heat riser assembly on the manifold for? Is it just there to hold spring tension?

How can you tell what position the heat flapper in the manifold is in without removing the carb. to look down in at it? Mine is stuck and I am working to free it but was curious whether it was open or closed. The engine never overheats even on hot days. I am soaking it daily with PB Blaster hoping that it will eventually free up. Thanks

I am going to redu my front springs on the 48. How difficult (or not) are the spring bushings to remove and replace with new ones, both from the frame brackets and the leaf springs? Thanks S.E.

I am going to have the front springs on my 48 B1C rearced. Does anyone have a place that they could recommend and an approx. cost? Thanks

I am going to replace ALL the weatherstripping, seals, window channels, and vent window seals in my 48. Not sure how everything comes apart. Does anyone have some good step by step how to instructions? Thanks

I was on my way home from work this afternoon in my 48 and an old man flagged me down. He wanted to look my truck over and to tell me that he had a 48 1/2 ton that he wanted to sell. I have not seen the truck but by talking to him it has the origional 218 with a 3 spd on the floor and is a standard cab. He is still driving the truck hauling water and fire wood to his place. He said he was selling it because he wanted to upgrade to a little newer truck, maybe something in the 70s. I sort of chuckeled at this, but he was dead serious. Anyway he has no phone and probably no electricty and has never heard of the internet. He did give me his address and asked that if I knew anybody that might be interested for them to please drop him a line. If anyone wants to contact the ol boy, e-mail me and I will send you his name and address and you can take it from there.

Does anyone have the Napa pt# for their 6V electric fuel pump that will work on my 48. Thanks

Looking for a vacuum advance unit for my 48 B1C. I believe that the correct Autolite pt# is VC-3147. Anyone know of a source? Thanks

My 48 B1C has the origional wheels and bias ply tires on it, cuz that's what it is suppose to have. I had a flat and took a tire into town be fixed. When I picked it up the gal at the counter told me that now days they do not recommend running a tubed tire at any more that 25 mph. Anybody else hear anything about this? We ran tubed tires for ever at a heck of a lot faster than 25 mph and lived through it. On the way home I thought that I might should have asked her if that only went for tubes made in China!!!

Does anyone have a good picture of the heat sheild for the fuel pump? Thanks