Tom Skinner

OK Gents here's the tips:
I went on the AACA Thread to get this information. I will mark this Thread as solved afterwards. 
In order to remove the Master Cylinder there is a Pin/Rod at the front of the MC. Use a 13/16" Open Wrench to push the Retaining Clips off the Pin Ends in order to remove the Pedals. If need be use JB Blaster to loosen every Bolt up to and including the 2 Brake Lines coming out of the back of the MC. One Line supplies the front Brakes the other the Rear Brakes. Have a Drain Pan to catch the Brake Fluid after removing the Lines or the Front Push Rod. Remove the Bolts and Replace the MC. by reversing the steps.
The Service Manual speaks to this but to have the tips to remove the Retaining Clips without them spinning and staying on the Pin/Rod is very helpful. Re-install the Pin/Rod with a Mash Hammer if a Press isn't available (LOL) be careful not to Monk up the Pin ends. There is a MC Bleeder Tool (It Looks like a syringe) to Bleed the MC before bleeding the rest of the System. So there it is Easy Peasy. I was just looking for some simple Tips. These could benefit others that would like to replace their Master Cylinders without any reservations as to skill set. I know Rich likes to Push The Ammco 1750 and MT19 Tools for adjusting Brake Shoes but they really aren't necessary unless you have $600 or more to throw away for a tool you may only use once or twice in your life. In addition to that you would be upside down real fast with your old Mopar paying someone else to monkey with it. Unless the Mechanic is 60 years old or better and know what he is doing with these old Shoe Brakes or a Truck Mechanic with Shoe experience. 
For now I am holding my own enjoying still working on and mastering every little thing my Chrysler throws at me, it is a tremendous privilege to continue be able to do so.
Tom

Thanks Dodge4ya, and everyone else. I wrestled it in today. up and down under and over, and never moved the floor pan.
Not the kind of work for an older guy but I took plenty of before pictures. It was a frayed original greasy mess. I just need to test it and adjust it tomorrow
so it holds on a hill like it should I got it from Melisa at Mopar-Mall for $118 (I hope that doesn't break a Thread Rule mentioning a Supplier)
It fits perfect, It was kind of tough getting the sleeved ends into their bracketed fits near the ends. 5 hours in for it so far but I am proud I didn't need any help.
Thanks again everyone!
Tom

Hey - Abbott - Iv'e been a bad boy - Abbott. (Abbott and Costello)
Shoot now I know why them seals leak - for starters I bumped the Inner Seals in with a tiny block of wood - not neat - little dents etc.
Second, I didn't replace the outer seals coming back out. Third I only snugged the rear axle castle nuts like one would on the front
spindles. Thank you all for the Great advice! I did hear a kooky scratching noise from time to time turning corners slowly.
I figured that out though by looking at the back of the hubcap weird circle of scratches at the back of the center of the cap came from the cotter pin
rubbing a circular scratch pattern on that right rear wheel hubcap - mystery solved. I'm gonna fix that too by installing the cotter pin correctly - sideways.
I bet I get it right this time. I looked at Page 311 again, 142 LBS
Thanks again!
Tom

Great News!
I went to the front directional light (disconnected it) Bulb looked good. I changed the Bulb anyhow 1158, but then I fidgeted with the socket.
I bent the spring was all the way in and no tension so I pulled it apart some to create some spring tension in the socket, and cleaned the connection ends with a brass brush.
re-assembled it and now everything works as it should inside and out. It must have been a crushed spring or dirty connection in the front right directional socket.
I have found with these 6 Volt systems these Cars can be very finicky if they are not grounded just right at the body or sockets aren't positioned just right etc.
So if anyone else has this problem out there, this is a possible cure. Hell after all these years of driving this way I won't know how to act with all my lights working LOL.

Thanks Niel!