Harley PHD

I made this one in years ago from this picture. The factory one probably works better

I always have trouble removing and installing the door handle. The holes never line up until I force the inner door molding in. I tried it this way, but it felt dangerous. I didn't mar or bend anything this time. 😅

Could he unplug the kickdown connector and tape it up just to test? I've installed new wiring harness on new vehicles, and they were defective. Pins in wrong connectors. Could be a bad resistor or circuit breaker that fails when hot.

have you looked at this old service reference book? TROUBLE-SHOOTING IN THE HYDRACLICALLY OPERATED TRANSMISSION a link to the IMPERIAL WEB PAGES Transmission and Clutch Repair Information for Imperials and Chrysler Imperials

My aftermarket tank had a bubble flair fitting on it like the original steel fuel line.

The small hole should be a very small hole. The brakes wont bleed with it clogged up. I've had to use a sewing needle to clean them out, be careful, you might have to hone it a little if you nick it up with the needle.

brake tester harness

It should be the same as my 1950 coronet. The brake light pressure switch goes to the turn signal switch first, then to rear brake lights. There are six wires coming out of the turn signal switch by the steering column, on 2 3way bullet connectors. one of them is the brake signal in. You can check there for brake signal. I made a 3way pig tail of bullet connectors and unplugged the turn side wires and wired the brake signal directly to the taillight wires under the dash. It was in the same 3way connector. this way you can test your circuit from the brake switch to the brake lights. I had to buy a NOS aftermarket turn switch on Ebay and take it apart and file the contacts flat to make it work right.

Thanks, looks like trucks are easier to get seat upholstery kits for.

Where did your seat upholstery come from? I've bought a headliner, but the same place didn't have a pattern for 1950 dodge seats.

They were close but a little bit off. The paper that came with the clips said if they didn't match to send them back with one original clip and they would try to match them. I'm the one who l picked them out, so I modified them in my vice with a punch and hammer. some of them didn't survive, but most of them were usable. I found out if you use the rounded edge of my old vice they broke less. lower left is original clips, right is some I made out of coat hangers when I painted the car in the 1980s, upper left is the failed re-bending of the new clips.

My 1950 coronet uses the same fittings as the brake lines. Its solid metal line from distributor to carburetor.

I think I found one in that catalogue. The shipping cost as much at the clips. part# B1420 from Restoration Specialties, I'll tell you if it is the right part when they come in.

I thought it would be easier to buy a set of them. I made some years ago, but the coat hanger wire I used rusted away. That restoration specialties catalog has to many choices, it will take me a while to go through them.

Anybody have a source for the molding clip for a 1950 coronet rear molding between the windshield and the trunk?

I went ahead and put it together. I was just doing a pressure test on the fluid drive like looking for a leak in a tire. I almost got it together and noticed the governor threads on the housing had cracked off. I found one on eBay (NOS) and looked at my 47-year-old transmission wiring harness I made in high school and replaced the wire ends on it. It starts and runs again, but I have to let the snow melt to test drive it. Its leaking a little bit now. I will see what happens, I bought 5 gal. of iso 32 oil so I can top it off and monitor the leak.

Had to make a special wrench leakage after lunch

My car has been parked for 20 years outside. I've built a new shop so I can finally work on it. After new brake lines, MC, wheel cylinders rebuilt, Dot 5, the clutch slipped from being oil soaked. I installed the Andy Bernbaum seal kit in the fluid drive. When I pressure check it (15 psi) there is a small leak at the carbon seal. Is this normal? I took it apart and tried both sides of the carbon seal and the back side of the old carbon seal and ended up with the shiny side of the new carbon seal against the seal surface. I know water pump carbon seals "break in", so I'm going to see if this one will break in too. 🤞