250440ND

Hello, I just moved 4 P-15 parts cars out of a pole building. There are 3 coupes and 1 4dr sedan. All very good parts and have been inside the last 25 yrs. Until last week my neighbor sold his place and had to move them out. I'm in Northern ND not all that far from Minneapolis. If you're interested I could e-mail you some pics I'm sure with 4 cars we could fix you up with everything you need. Even stuff you don't. They are all 47-48 Plymouths. If you want you could call 701-370-5577 or 701-370-9701. Thanks. Parts are not rusty.

You will first have to take a new razor blade and stand it up and shave off your run before you hit it w/sanding paper. They do make little files on wooden blocks about one inch square that you can use to file down your runs also. If you are brave take a little 600grit on a small block and just try to grind down the run before switching to 1200 or 2000 grit.

Rocker stainless.

Today's cars have panels that aren't welded on they are glued, The roof on a new Cadillac is glued on. I own a bodyshop and we use panel bonding glue all the time for Qtr Panels, boxsides, cabcorners, roof panels. You can get it at any autobody supply stores. 3M makes it and so do Duramix. It's good stuff and I would use that before JB Weld. My opinion. So you caddy guys don't get mad at me the front and rear of the roof panel is welded on. You can get the stuff to dry in 3minutes if that isn't fast enough put some heat on it w/heat gun and it will dry really fast.

My neighbor still has his 48 ply club coupe 4sale. It is the blue one w/visor pictured in cars for sale in ND. It was a driver about 10 yrs ago but has been sitting in storage since. The interior is real nice, all glass and chrome are good probably needs a few wheel cylinder kits for the brakes and would be ready to hit the road again. Call him @701-370-9701.

Going to order new run channel and fuzzies for a 48 Ply 2dr sedan. I was wondering where to get the best stuff? Who's used what? Steele, Atlas, or Andy B? Any input would sure be appreciated. Thanks.

Regular Bodyfiller is talc based and will absorb moisture do not use where moisture can get to it. If I didn't have a welder I would try to 1st; countersink the hole and try to solder it shut or put in a screw or rivet and grind the head down almost flush and then add a filler such as "ALL-Metal" that has aluminum in it, very strong and won't absorb moisture or something like Dura-glass that is also very strong and moisture resistant, then grind that down and use a polyester glaze coat over it to finish it off. Just make sure everything is clean and follow directions on whichever product you use and you should have no problems.

The higher-end single stage is fine, I was talking about the Tractor supply or Rust-Oleum. They don't stand up to the elements as well as the better urethane's. As for too much shine you can add flattener to achieve any look you want w/any type of paint system. Just don't be afraid of BC/CC. The people I know who have painted their own cars usually ussed single stage because they think Clear-coating is something too difficult for them. For metallic colors it is way easier and blending in with a clearcoat system is as simple as it gets. Just don't do all that work on your car and put a cheaper quality paint on it, thats what most people notice, like an "icing on the cake"

I don't understand why people would want to put on a single stage paint. BC/CC is way easier to spray, anybody can do it, it is easier to repair if you ever get a ding or scratch, it holds up better to the elements, it buffs out easily and will shine like no single-stage could. I don't think the enamel paints areas good as they were a few years ago because of the paint manufacturer's having to make them OSHA approved. I've had a bodyshop for 18 yrs and the only resto I did w/ single-stage was a 48 plymouth 2dr Sedan. I used Glasurit and added clear to the final coat so it would buff easier.

To spray a single stage metallic, you nedd to reduce the paint a little on the final coat and set the pressure up a bit more on the gun, hold it back a little further and spray a fog coat, going in a different direction than your other coats. Keep spraying your fog until you cannot see any stripes or mottling. An HVLP gun is all I use, SATA NR2000.

If you have overspray on the car the best method is 3M clay bar w/a little water it will remove overspray, tree sap and any other paint contaminents. Do that first before you do any polishing. Wizard makes a yellow compounding foam pad for aggresive buffing and a white foam pad for final polishing works excellent.

With the proper prep Dupont has a metal etch primer in a spray can at your auto paint stores. works well.

Does anyone know if there were other color options for interior in a 48 Dodge D24, other than tan? It goes well w/the woodgrain so I was thinking that was the only color available. I have never seen any other color in a Dodge, but thought the gray/maroon from a plymouth would look nice.

It's tough to beat 3M Ultrapro seam sealer. I own a Bodyshop and have used it for years and never had a redo with this stuff. You can shape it any way you want by dippin you finger in a little reducer and smoothing it out to any appearance your looking for. I've used some of duramix sealer also, seams to do the job.