Ivan_B

Keep it on the shelf, or you can sell them. They are probably collectable, now 😃

While you are planning to work with your original pump, you can probably still fix and temporarily use this old one. Just take a strip of thick-enough sheet metal, drill a hole in it, put one end under the pump bolt, and shape the other end to push the pin in place. There are various (from simple to not so much) ways to keep the pin in its place

I have two explanations: 1) there is a tiny crack somewhere (very unlikely) or 2) the gasket is letting the gas through.
To deal with the second scenario, use some sealant dressing on the gasket (I prefer permatex #2) and do not over-tighten it. Also, make sure that your level is correct. To do so, verify that the float is not leaking (dip in boiling water, watch for bubbles) and that the needle is actually shutting off the fuel flow (crank the engine with the carb top off, blow into it, etc.).
 
Also, do you still have original vacuum advance line on your carb? Would you mind posting a few pictures of how that's rounder to the distributor? 😃

Correct.

Ray, where is your original post? This one?
Just reply to it with all your updates.

Oh, the good-old counter-shaft rod? Yes, that got to be sealed individually

These are regular radiator hoses, made to look like the ones produced in the past. Here are the sizes, for the 201/218 engine, from the manual:

Enjoy.

I don't know. There is only one bulb. Take a couple buttons out, in the middle. See the light? Can you replace it? If not, here is your answer
I have just the old DIAL tag from my radio. But there are some pictures of the buttons, on eBay, etc., appearing to be original. I would keep the older typewriter tags, though, they look appropriate. Matching the font for the new ones, and printing it so the paper looks old sounds like too much work.
 
By the way, in case you've never done this before, you do need to remove the knobs to take the radio down.

Not sure if they had several different setups, etc., but here is what my 201 looks like.

I tend use anti-seize mostly everywhere, unless the manufacturer specifies something else like thread lock or sealant

Just go to the applicable auto store section and get anything that says "fuel resistant" on it
I personally prefer the non-hardening ones, I think Permatex gray or black, or something like that, came in a tiny tube at Autozone.
 
later: probably this one.

Sorry to hear that. Did you test it around the block, several times, before going on a trip?
Take the fuel line off the carb and ask someone to crank the car (disconnect the coil so that it does not start on you. Do you get fuel coming out of the line?

Good job. You could've just used blind rivets for a more secure connection (if you did not want to mess around with the traditional solid ones). After all, the parking brake is also your emergency brake.