1952gary

Been awhile since I have visited the website. I have a similar situation working on my currant project a 1941 Firetruck. Front brakes are done and I just removed the rear wheels. Seeing the post from Zen Master explains what I need to look for in removing the drum. The front drums just need sandblasted and inspected. I installed new wheel cylinders and brake lines. I assume the rear will require the same.

Brake conversion completed with much success. Now planning on converting to 6 volt alt. I have an alternator but was wondering if anyone has knowledge of a bracket that can be purchased to convert our old trucks. I can build a bracket if non is available.

Started the disc break conversion on my 52 Dodge truck this week. Having a problem removing the right side king pin. Left side ok. The BFH is not working so looks like a axle removal and off to the press. I worked on the left spindle with drilling and tapping with no problems. I pressed the bushings into the spindle and test fitted the king pin. Too tight. What is the best way to ream the bushing?

Thanks.

Old member just returning for some information. Is their anyone still making the parts to convert our old trucks to disc? Wanting to purchase for my 1952 B3B. Email g.bell2005@comcast.net Thanks

Son in law had a lot of fender welting left over from a 74 volkswagon project that worked for my truck.

I drove up to the shop today and the guage started working again. I will order a new sending unit to see if this fixes the problem. Thanks for your input.

Parked the truck one night with everything working and the following day the gas gauge was not working. Any thoughts from the experts? Things already checked: Fuse ok Wires attached to gauge tight Wire to tank appears connected

You guys were reading my mind. I saw the same ad. Thanks Gary

Need an answer about gas tanks for our trucks. Are the tank sizes the same from 47 thru 52?

When I was driving the 52 B3B today the brake pedal become firm with the smell of hot brakes. When I stop for some time the pedal returns to normal. I adjusted the brakes as per the instructions about 3 days earlier and this was the first long drive since adjusting. What is causing this problem?

I only had one key for my truck so the purpose was to get some additional keys made. The local Locksmith was unable to match the key.

Sent you a PM with my phone number. Give me a call

Looking for key blanks for my truck. I tried to get a new key today only to find no one carries a blank. The locksmith was able to alter a blank to make an extra key. Works but I would like to find some original. Any one out there have any blanks or knowledge of where to find them?

Thanks for catching the typo error on the front springs. Yes there are 6 and I have corrected the posting to show the 6. I did not have overloads on my truck.

Not sure about your question on removing a spring and lowering. I only removed springs from my truck to soften the ride. By removing springs you lower 1/4 inch per spring removed. No other lowering methods were applied. I will not be hauling heavy loads, so the original rear springs are no longer required. The ride now is similar to what you would find in a 50's car.

I use Duplicolor 500 degree ceramic primer and paint. I use rattlecans to keep it simple. Give it plenty of time to cure before handling. Use a heat source to help cure. I am not aware of any factory coatings for springs. I would say they were painted. I have driven the truck and the handling is very good. On the Freeway 55 to 60 feels good. I plan to align the front and set the steering box clearances. The new ride height did not affect the drive line. Keep in mind this was not a major height adjustment. I really like the attitude of the truck.

Vintage powerwagons offer what you need hwever they do not offer the mount to the hinge. I purchased the mirrors and extentions but only used the mirrors. I have two extentions from vintage for sale.

Napa has the black air duct hose at a reasonable price. I just gave them the diameter and length I needed.

Removed all the springs and made sure the hangers were free with a total range of movement. The entire spring was separated, sandblasted, and inspected. In my case each spring had an imprint of the spring below due to heavy loads and years of wear. I used a grinder and beveled the upper edge of each leaf below the main spring therefore allowing good movement of the sping over the imprinted area. This bevel only needs to be on the end and angled edges. After a primer and final finish coat I assembled with a new 5/16 grade #8 bolt. The hex head of the bolt needs to be rounded to fit into the spring pearch. Try fitting the head into the spring pearch prior to assembly of the entire spring. When attaching the spring to the frame be sure your adjustments are set correctly so it will take grease.

Had a few requests about the ride of my 52 after the retro. The ride on my 52 improved beyond expections after I reworked the front and rear springs. The front springs have 6 leafs and the rear has 5 leaves. My truck has Radial tires P235 75R 15. The ride height is front 30 1/4 and rear 30 3/8 inches. This is the measurement from ground to top of wheel well. Below are the measurements. Front Spring #1 43 inches #2 41 1/2 inches #3 34 inches #4 27 inches #5 15 inches #6 10 inches Rear Spring #1 52 inches #2 49 inches #3 38 1/2 inches #4 28 inches #5 17 inches

Months ago I inquired where to find a source for the filler rubbers between the front fender and cab. I remember it to be a ford product but do not recall the vendor.

Located in Bothell Wa. Just finishing 52 B3B and plan to put in the show at Snohomish this weekend with my 1964 Dodge B Body. Lets plan a northwest get together.

Problem may be solved. This morning I went thru all the steps again to ensure gas, spark, and timing was correct. I then pulled the dist cap off to give it a good check. Upon inspecting I found the carbon contact in the center was missing. It appears part of this has broken and does not make contact with the rotor. Ordered a new cap will see after 5pm if this fixes the problem.

I put gas into the carb on several occassions until I flooded the engine. I did replace the fuel pump and rechecked the carb to ensure good fuel flow. The Vaccum leak is another area I will check today. The valves looked ok and did not appear stuck. Thanks for the suggestions.