Jonathan

Where would I source one of these? Is it in the downloads section?

Ok, are you saying that if the engine is idling and I hold the kickdown switch in the "kickdown" position, that it will not kill the engine? I assumed that holding it down would essentially interrupt the ignition system and that is why you needed to kick it down, i.e., the motion of a split-second kickdown and let-up on the gas pedal was what was causing the ignition to be grounded. Can you confirm?

I can read this, thank you!

Thank you very much. I will take a look further into this and confirm that it is what you suggest. Appreciate your detailed response!

Good morning, I have just installed a Borg Warner R10 overdrive and have the car jacked up on stands. I have wired the transmission myself and need some direction on the following issues: 1) I push the overdrive cable in on the dash to the overdrive "on" position accelerate and hear the pin in the solenoid engage, let off the gas pedal momentarily, but can never seem to have the transmission go into overdrive. I believe I also hear the overdrive solenoid pin disengage when my speed decreases sufficiently. 2) My understanding is the kickdown switch is to interrupt the ignition system. I manually push and hold down the kickdown switch when the car is idling and the car continues idling. Am I correct in understanding holding the kickdown switch is to interrupt the ignition system and have the engine cease? Thanks.

So, how would you "turn the overdrive switch off"? Are you talking about a dash switch or about pulling out the cable that engages the overdrive?

Thank you for this. I never knew there was a download section on the site. I will check it out!

Good day, I bought a Borg Warner R10 Overdrive for my 1950 Plymouth. I am trying to figure out how to wire it prior to install. My 1950 Plymouth is now ground negative and 12 volt and I need some help in making a decision. I have 2 different wiring harnesses that came with the transmission. A 6 Volt and a 12 Volt. The 6 volt wiring harness is (I think) ground positive, it has a 3 way toggle switch (maybe a dash "kickdown" switch?). I do not know if this wiring harness is the best option as car is now ground negative 12 volt and I do not know how to make that work on my electrical. The 12 volt wiring harness, I have no idea if it is ground negative, but it has a 2 way toggle switch (maybe a dash "kickdown" switch?). The odd thing with this wiring harness is that it is labeled as "solid state." It has a relay and on the instructions it says, "Use with no governor or kickdown switch on carburetor linkage." I am partial to using the 12 volt wiring option on my car, but I am quite hesitant on bypassing the governor and do not want to wreck a precious transmission. The 2 pictures include the respective wiring diagrams and a look at the wiring harnesses. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks very much for these options. I will make a decision and get on it!

Thanks very much, I will look into these!

Thanks, I just put the "185671194447" number in the ebay.com search bar and it said, "No exact matches found." I also tried to google the info and it came up with nothing. Could you email me a link?

Thanks for this suggestion. I have no idea what I am looking for or where to start. Do you have a phone number or website?

I am in the process of putting in a Borg Warner R10 overdrive transmission on my 12 volt 1950 Plymouth. I have the wiring harness and 12 volt relay, but no overdrive switch. I was wondering where to get a switch, or better yet, if I could wire in the overdrive kickdown switch not on the gas pedal or the carburetor, but on the dash board. Are there any hazards to doing this? I have never done anything like this before and need some guidance. Thanks!

I am wondering what kind of weather-stripping I should purchase for my 1950 Plymouth 2 door, for both my trunk and the doors. I have heard the original stuff was not that great and let air through and I was wondering if that is accurate or if there was better stuff out there. I think the doors simply need suitable weather stripping around the circumference, but the trunk does have quite a deep channel for the weather stripping to fit in. I was wondering if someone found a suitable option either way. Thanks! Here is quick video of how far I have got on my project:

I have been in regular contact with a member named "Roadtractor" and am supposed to purchase parts from him. He shared his phone number with me and since Christmas I cannot make contact with him. If anyone knows him and if he is OK, please let me know. Thank you.

I have a 1950 Plymouth p19 (likely Canadian made) and it has a 25 inch 251 in it.

Working on my 1950 Plymouth p-19 manual transmission and am chasing down leaks. I believe I need the seals for the Lower Gearshift Selector Lever & the Gearshift Lever Shaft. (See the attached picture where I outlined the seal designations in red.) Looking elsewhere on the forum it seems to me as if the Lower seal is either the Clearwater Hydraulics #2-111Q or the McMaster Carr 90025K224. Is this correct? I couldn't find any info on the seal for the Gearshift Lever Shaft. Thanks.

Yeah, there is no way that the Plymouth Pitman arm will fit on the Cardone pitman shaft. Good idea looking for a Cardone data sheet. I will start there. Thanks very much!

I have been following your posts. I am trying to put Power Steering on my 1950 Plymouth Dexluxe and ordered the Cardone 27-6579 you used for your car. However, the pitman shaft on the power steering gearbox is 1 1/4 inches, and my pitman shaft is 1 1/8 inches. Did you run into this problem? I am thinking I need to return my Cardone 27-6579 and go a different direction, but thought I would check in with you first.

Thanks for your reply. I took the steering box apart and the the worm gear is indeed worn out. So, it looks like I need to replace the steering gearbox. I am trying to build this vechicle such that my tiny wife can turn the steering wheel with ease. So, I am wondering that if I go power steering in the end, is there a way of putting a power steering pump on the original flatheat engine? I do not see how I can currently put a pump on the engine with no pulley available to tie into.

Curious, could you let me know exactly what you used for an electric Power Steering Conversion? I am working on my car and there is a tremendous amount of slop in the steering box. I have adjusted it quite a bit, with no solution. I called a couple places and they said the worm gear is probably worn out, but it is impossible to find another except in a junkyard, and all my local junkyards have crushed the majority of these cars now. So, I am thinking of a power steering conversion but do not know where to begin. Everything else on my car is stock. Thanks.

That is really interesting. I was under the impression that a 1950 Plymouth Deluxe had 6.4 x 15 tires as indicated by this website: http://www.classiccardatabase.com/specs.php?series=4830&year=1950&model=28195 Maybe they were wrong? I will do more calculations. Thanks!

Is this info for a 251 flathead 6 engine, with a 3.73 rear end?

I have a possibility of an R7 overdrive/ 3spd transmission from a 1940 Chrysler. Is there a difference between the R7 and the R10? Will an R7 from a 1940 Chrysler simply bolt on my 1950 Plymouth Deluxe without any modifications? Thanks.

I swapped my original rear end to a 1994 Ford Explorer. I am guessing my original rear end was 3.75, my new rear end is 3.27. My tire size is 195/65 R 15. They are a 24" diameter tire. My terrain is generally flat. I would not be carrying that much luggage, but I could be carrying a full load of passengers. It is a 5 seater car. I do not really have a top speed I am looking for, but I am looking for a desired RPM at highway speeds. I believe a good highway engine RPM (based on the power curve of my 251 engine) would be between 2000-2500 RPM. Engine seems to have the most torque between 1500-2500 rpm, see attached picture. Please correct me if I am wrong on this and my highway RPM expectations. Here is my math: Where I am now: 1) 195/65 R 15 tires, 3.27 rear end, original transmission, (1:1 top gear) at 62.5 MPH (100 KMPH) is 2860 RPM 2) 195 65 R 15 tires, 3.27 rear end, original transmission (1:1 top gear) at 68.5 MPH (110 KMPH) is 3130 RPM Change Tires Only: 3) 205/75 R 15 tires, 3.27 rear end, original transmission, (1:1 top gear) at 62.5 MPH (100 KMPH) is 2550 RPM 4) 205/75 R 15 tires, 3.27 rear end, original transmission (1:1 top gear) at 68.5 MPH (110 KMPH) is 2790 RPM Change Transmission Only: 5) 195/65 R 15 tires, 3.27 rear end, O/D transmission, (.75ish top gear) at 62.5 MPH (100 KMPH) is 2150 RPM 6) 195 65 R 15 tires, 3.27 rear end, O/D transmission, (.75ish top gear) at 68.5 MPH (110 KMPH) is 2350 RPM Change Tires and Transmission (I do not know if I could/should do this, it might be too much for the engine): 7) 205/75 R 15 tires, 3.27 rear end, O/D transmission, (.75ish top gear) at 62.5 MPH (100 KMPH) is 1900 RPM ? 205/75 R 15 tires, 3.27 rear end, O/D transmission, (.75ish top gear) at 68.5 MPH (110 KMPH) is 2090 RPM Because I changed the rear axle to a Ford Explorer, it has the Ford Explore drum brakes in the rear. The front brakes are original and the steer is original.