DLK

After a couple agonizing months looking at various 40's and early 50's MOPARS I purchased a 50 Dodge Wayfarer sedan on ebay today. The car is in great shape but I have to confess being a little nervous about driving it 480 miles back home. I guess I will have my son tail me in my regular car and stay off I-90. If the engine is in good shape as it seems to be I assume at 55 it will not be revved out too much for that kind of leisurely pace - correct? Am I nuts not to have it shipped?

I owned four Chrysler minivans starting with an 89, then a 93 Grand Caravan, then two Town and Country's, a 1996 and a 2002. EVERY ONE OF THEM needed a transmission overhaul within 90,000 miles - I hardly call that Chrysler 4 speed automatic well built. Only the 2002 T&C was ever used for any towing so they were not abused.

Thanks to the several here who have sent me PM's with suggestions.

I am seriously interested in a car in Las Cruces, New Mexico a long way from Minnesota. Has anyone here had experience with some of the appraisal services out in the internet? Even if I paid $500 it is less than the cost for me to fly to El Paso, rent a car and do my own inspection. One national network of appraisers (autoappraise.com) quotes $365 plus $65/hour travel. It looks like they produce a thorough report with pictures. Having been badly burned buying a car sight unseen on e-bay once I am not about to repeat that mistake, especially when this car costs three times what I paid that time. I'd settle for something less thorough if I could find it for less money.

I talked to a guy at work today his first car in high school (1956) was a 49 Windsor coupe. He drive it for three years and it stayed in the family for a long time he said the car was bulletproof. Chrysler defintely led the way in engineering in the 1940's and early 50's.

I would guess an inverter would not handle the draw that unit would need.

I come away from reading all these posts convinced that oil additives are NOT needed with a 46-52 flathead and it's hardened valve seats. Yet over the last month I looked at three cars where the owners religiously added the lead substitute with every fill up. As several people said "if it makes you feel good do it" but I am joining the group that finds it unnecessary. It reminds me of my Dad with his first fully automatic car, a 53 Buick Dynaflow (after owning all MOPAR's). A friend at work convinced him he should always start in "L" and shift the car manually to "D" rather than let it shift itself. He went through 2 transmissions in three years.

My father had a 41 DeSoto, then a 41 Chrysler, then a 49 New Yorker - a gas guzzling beast that took real muscle to steer. I loved the plaid upholstery as a kid. He got away to Chevrolets until he bought a 63 Belvedere. He got me hooked. I bought a long series of MOPAR cars but haven't had one since 2007 but expect to change that soon.

I am interested in either this or the stock Plymouth option if I buy the car. The nice thing is I am in no hurry, my wife can just wear a sweater and long johns this fall and I could deal with it next year. I just wanted an idea what my options were and the cost. I feel better knowing it's not as complicated or difficult as I thought. Tony do you have pictures of your setup?.

From these pictures it looks like the heater was under the hood rather than at the passenger's feet. Is that the way the Plymouths were?

I guess that is why so many of these cars have been brought back from years in the field or barn with only 60-70,000 miles - at that point they were considered junk back in the 50's and early 60's. It has to be true that modern lubricants have something to do with greater longevity of the engines now.

So many people here seem to know old MOPARS that maybe I can get an answer on a 50 Dodge. I found a Wayfarer sedan I really like. Unfortunately it's a California car and never had a heater. I live in Minnesota where a heater is almost a must even in April or October. Reading some of the posts searching under "heater" here it looks like Chrysler had a whole bunch of heater models in the late 40's - early 50's. For now I have two questions: 1. Were cars where the buyer did not order a heater have the firewall holes and other things (defroster ducts?) to facilitate putting one in? 2. How interchangeable are some of these. I would be satisfied with a Plymouth, Dodge or other MOPAR heater/defroster if it would fit. Being correct would be nice but not necessary if it fit and worked.

What would cause a P-15 three speed to pop out of second gear when using it to slow the car going downhill? Is it more likely to be bushing/bearing problem or a problem with the gears themselves? Or is this somewhat normal?

You must have done a great rebuilding job (or whoever did it). I must say I have yet to drive a flathead rebuilt or otherwise that never got below 30 pounds of pressure. My 53 Desoto had a recent rebuild when I bought it and still only put out about 20-25 at idle with 10W40 in it. My 47 Plymouth that had 65,000 and definitely was in need of a rebuild was down to 10 at idle when warm.

I have driven several P-15's and Chrysler Windsors in the past month that have 50-65K on the engine apparently without a rebuild. A couple of these still had what I consider good oil pressure (15-20 at idle and 40-45 at higher rpm) and no smoke or other signs of a tired engine. I guess my fear is that the engines must be pushing the limits for needing an overhaul. Can one expect a well serviced and unabused 217, 230 or 251 engine to go more than 75,000 miles? My guess is generally no.

I can see some of you do not have daughters in their 20's. My 27 year old must send 15-20 texts a day. At least she has the brains not to text or call people while driving. I don't understand it but then at 59 I don't understand much about her generation.

I get jealous everytime I see someone with a three car garage or better yet that pole barn for a shop. I'd love to have an extra stall and all the shop tools some of you have but it's not going to happen.

After owning three hobby cars all of which were 20-foot drivers that needed mechanical work beyond my limited ability (47 Plymouth, 60 Chrysler, 53 DeSoto) I am looking to buy a car that has good paint, clean undercarriage (not show quality), rebuilt engine and brakes and a decent interior. If I buy a fixer-upper and hire out for all things I have at least $10K right there on top of my investment. So to me spending $8K to $10K for a car that is clean underneath and has all those things done is not a bad price. Don I have followed all the work you have done on your car on this and other forums, I wish I was as mechanical as you. I can replace a head gasket or put in a wheel cylinder or bearing if I have to, but an engine overhaul or complete brake job no way. I haven't pulled an engine out of a car since 1968 and that was a Model A.: My wife is at the point of saying "just buy something but keep it then!" out of frustration with my obsession with looking and that I turned over each of my previous purchases in less than 3 years. She is saying I don't care what you buy or spend (within reason) just keep one car and lets enjoy it.

I appreciate all the comments and information. One problem with Minnesota cars is how bad the rust underneath is. My 47 had two body supports that were totally gone, that and a cracked block caused me to sell it cheap since I am neither a body man or engine rebuilder. I am looking at a 48 Deluxe now that is is good shape underneath, has good paint and rebuilt engine. Only real downside is the just presentable interior. I'd rather spend more and have a car that has no rot underneath in the usual spots. I know whatever I buy I will lose money but if I get even 5 years of enjoyment I am ok with that.

Thanks to all for the explanations about the trim differences. I want something better than the 20-footer I had with my 47 ($300 paint job and rusty underneath although it had a new original interior) but not something I am afraid to drive for fear I might get some grease on it. I have only been looking for a couple weeks but some sellers do need a dose of reality with what they are asking but any price is reasonable I guess if some sucker like me will pay it.

I used to own a 47 Special Deluxe sedan (I miss it a lot). Today I looked at a 48 Deluxe 4-door for sale. About the only difference I could detect is that the rear quarter windows opened on my Special Deluxe and they are fixed on the Deluxe. Can anyone tell me what were the other differences? This car is going for $10K. It has a nice paint job, clean undercarriage and nicely re-chromed bumpers and is good mechanically but has an amateur interior job not at all like the original (eliminated all the woodgrain on dash and frames for example) and tires that while they have a lot of tread are quite old. It seems a bit high priced to me. I assume it would cost about $4K to have the interior brought back and put on new tires - I don't see Manheim or NADA used car guides showing a value of $14K for these cars unless they are a trailered show car, I'm not interested in that. As has been discussed on here and elsewhere you don't buy a car like this to make money or break even most of the time, but I am not sure I want to start out several thousand in the hole either as fond as I am of it.

Thanks for the suggestions. I do have a new pan gasket so after the stethescope test I will drop the pan and start from the bottom. I did buy a set of heavy duty jack stands last year that came in handy for replacing my leaf springs.

I hope this thread can help solve the problem I have had with my 53 DeSoto Powermaster 251 CI six for the entire four years I have owned it. The prior owner's son rebuilt the engine and it runs smoothly and doesn't burn a drop of oil. However ever since I bought it there is a tapping noise (knock) especially pronounced at idle. Hot or cold it doesn't matter. It is definitely louder than when I bought the car. My problem is I haven't torn down an engine since my '31 Model A in 1968 so I will probably have to go the a shop for this. Since it will involve tearing down the engine I can only imagine the cost even to fix one wrist pin. At the same time I realize driving the car at 55 mph with the knock is inviting bigger trouble.

So Don when the job was done how much higher did your car sit in back? I am hearing that if I replace my sagging rear springs then I will need to replace the front coils which surely have sagged after 54 years.

I has a 1947 P-15 Plymouth three years ago and now have a 53 DeSoto (how I miss that Special Deluxe and so does my wife). Someday I plan to go back to either a p-15, d-25 or s-11. I am in Minnesota I will update my profile.