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Shawn F.

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Everything posted by Shawn F.

  1. Yes sir that was me. The young guy.
  2. BTW, the car is complete, Fenton visor, and all original. Needs restoration of course... Floor patches and rear part of the quarters. Other than that it's rust free.
  3. I was wanting to get more information on my 46 Chrysler Windsor Business Coupe as far as numbers on how many were actually built and what the value on one would be all original with 67,000 original miles but not running. Usual rust in the quarters, motor is free but needs tuned up, new fluids, battery, etc. I was told about 407 were made in this year and 1,980 total from 46-48? How accurate is this? I know value can't be told really without seeing it but some here may remember seeing it in person or in photos I posted when I first bought it. I cannot find the photos on here and do not have my computer anymore that has the photos of it. Hopefully I can post new ones tomorrow. Any info on estimated value would be great. I am thinking about selling it and using the money towards my business is the only reason I am curious. Not 100% sure yet if I will sell but it's an idea I am throwing around. Thanks in advance!
  4. It was just a suggestion... I'd mod the South East section if needed, but I understand the above points too. I think just for events purposes it would be cool or even just an events section then maybe for events all over the US? I don't know just throwing ideas out there. Also would love to get a detailing section for Detailing/Appearance and I'd be more than happy to mod this section since it's what I do for a living. Would be great because I can throw up stickies with washing and polishing techniques, chrome care, paint and coatings, etc.
  5. Just a suggestion, but i think it would be nice to have a regional section on the forums at the very bottom such as South East, North East, South West, North West, Mid, etc etc. A lot of other forums I am a member of have such sections and it helps to find people in our area and we can post up meets, cruise ins and get to know the people in our area. As I said, this is just a suggestion and my own 2 cents.
  6. Tim, thanks for the info as well. I have heard of this method to get close as far as gear ratio. Once I pull this thing out of my back yard and onto level ground I will begin pulling the wheels, brakes and check the rear end out good. If I end up keeping it then I will rebuild the brakes, new bearings and seals. That should freshen it up quite nicely. Maybe for now I will keep the stock master cylinder until I can get funds to do a dual with power booster. I want to be able to get this thing on the road because I know from experience that if I tear it down too much and it takes too long then I will lose interest and on the back burner it will go. I'm sure a lot here can relate to that.
  7. Happy St. Patricks day to you guys as well! Careful if your out driving around tonight, a bunch of drunk idiots out there, don't become one of them please.
  8. Rockwood, I have been thinking about what you said here and this may be my best and easiest route to go. I will check into my stock rear end here in the next couple weeks and go from there. I do not plan to run a Hemi or anything crazy, just the stock 251 inline 6 motor and stock fluid drive trans. I may beef up the motor when I have it rebuilt with a cam, shave the head some to raise compression, dual carb manifold, etc but nothing too crazy. I want to keep this car to where if I sell it then I can put it 95% back to stock.
  9. Ah, stupid me, I did not think about the bolt pattern...
  10. I have not measured my stock rear end yet, no. Probably is something I need to do. I do have a built Chevy S-10 rear end with a high performance series Auburn differential, 3.42:1 Richmond ring and pinion, street/strip Moser axles and new bearings and seals. At least the paper I have for it shows this information from the old owner who rebuilt it and threw it in an S10 I bought. I am not sure if the specs on an S10 rear work for this Chrysler but would be nice... I have saved this rear for a T bucket or 29 Roadster project but wouldn't mind using it for the Windsor.
  11. I have no clue the differential gearing, all I know is that I have a Fluid drive trans...
  12. Thanks for the info guys. I would like to go with oldaddys parts to help a fellow board member out. I think I will give him a call this week sometime. I did read a site last night saying that with the gm metric callers, I can grind a hump down and use my original wheels. If this is the case then I will be very happy. As for the model of my car it is a Windsor biz coupe with the 251 inline flathead six cylinder. As for the rear end I am not sure if I should do a swap or keep it stock and upgrade to disc. I think I saw somewhere that an 89 Dakota rear will work, is this correct? If so then I wouldn't mind the stock Dakota drums since they will be easier and cheaper to rebuild. Then I would have to figure out the best gearing to go with...
  13. Well I am at the point where I need to pull my 46 Chrysler Windsor Business Coupe out of the yard to get ready to move this summer... I figured that this would be the time to get the brakes working on this car for once and actually start some work on it (if money allows). So far since I've bought this car a few years ago, I only tore out the interior, pulled some trim to get rid of some rust and that's it. When I first bought it I could not get the brakes to work no matter how much I tried bleeding them, etc. I am sure the m/c is rusted up, lines are toast, hoses are dry rotted and wheel cylinders are rusted up badly. I have not pulled anything to look but I just know for a fact that the entire brake system needs to be pulled off and all new stuff installed. I have been looking around this site for a few days now on some disc brake kits but still have some questions and worries. 1.) First off, I have been told and saw somewhere online that my 46 Chrysler Windsor is different than a typical Mopar car because it's a business coupe so a typical Mopar disc brake kit will not work. Can anyone confirm this? 2.) I would also like to convert my rear drums to disc as well but keep the original rear end. Is this possible? If so, who makes such a kit? 3.) On one thread here I saw someone mentioned about upgrading from the original 1/4 inch lines to 3/16 inch brake lines, especially if I go to disc brakes. 4.) I plan to stick with the master cylinder under the floor where the stock unit is but have power brakes (booster)... Is there a kit I have to buy for this or is it a over the counter part for a different make, model and year vehicle? 5.) With doing a disc brake swap, can I use my original wheels? I'd hate to have to buy new wheels and especially if I cannot use the stock hubcaps. Pretty much ANY info on this would be greatly appreciated! I know this is not a Chrysler website but I like these forums better than the Yahoo Chrysler group because it's easier for me to keep up with the threads posted here. As for purchasing the brakes, this will not happen for at least 3 months because I just do not have the money to do anything with the car and I'm sure doing all 4 disc brakes will be around $800-$1000. I also still need new tires, wiring harness, floors welded in, go through the entire engine, rebuild the carb, etc etc. Thanks a LOT in advance guys!
  14. I think I got lucky... I do not see any sections on this Nevada title that need to be notarized. It is signed by both names that are on the title (wife and husband) and everything else is blank for buyer and date. Only thing that may be a problem which I've had in the past is the wife didnt have room for her name so wrong underneath her husbands signature and hand printed name... I also found another title of an old truck I bought in my name that someone bought from me, never made the payments and took it to a scrap metal yard and fled the state... Hope I dont have problems with this one either. Man what a pain this can be. I think this will be my 12th or 13th vehicle and title I have had to take care of. I knew I had an addiction to old cars.
  15. I am glad to have this info, I am going to copy and paste it to save for future use... It may come in handy. Today I am going to pull my title out and see if it needs to be notarized (actually going to do that right now) and then go from there. Maybe this week or next I will go to the plates place and try taking care of it. I will keep you guys posted on what I find out in case you care to know.
  16. Austinsailor, thanks for all the info. I am about to take care of my title here very shortly since some last minute family issues are causing me to move in the next couple months. Before I move I will take care of this title. If all else fails I will look into the bonded title. What exactly is a bonded title? I will read the link you supplied and it may answer it in there so sorry if I am having you answer something that I can find myself in the link.
  17. rustyzman, you are correct. It's been about 5 or 6 years and I forgot all the names of the machines and bits. Yes it is not for hand use but the instructor gave me one of the bits and said to try it in a hand drill and give it a shot. I did and it worked (slowly). Also used it to drill out a bolt and it worked great. They have them in 2 and 4 flutes on the end (thought it was flukes haha sorry). As for miracle metal, I have no clue what they were made of but they did the job for me. As for the extractor I took it down as much as I could and then chipped the rest away. It of course destroyed the threads and hole which had to be drilled out and a heli coil used.
  18. I had a similar problem of an extractor breaking off inside of a spindle for my 66 F100 with a twin I beam. I had to drill a hole in it, use a punch and beat the crap out of it to chip it away. The extractor is so hard that it's brittle and will chip into pieces. I would take this approach first and see how it works. If not then the heat method may have to be done but I am not sure what you will use to pull it out. I have also gotten a fluke type drill bit (not sure of the correct terminology) that is used on bridge ports or upright drills and drilled them out. They have 2 to 4 blades or flukes at the end and will cut through hardened steel. I borrowed this bit from a metals manufacturing class I was taking 5 or 6 years ago, through it in a regular hand drill, and it worked great. Ate right through the tap bit or extractor that broke off. Use some oil too keep it cool and not burn up your bit if taking this approach.
  19. North Carolina unfortunately requires titles to be notarized and they like to have a bill of sale but I asked the lady at the plates place and she said the Bill Of Sale is not really required. She said to bring in the signed and notarized title and we will go from there. I guess the less questions I ask them the better. I am going to still try and find the original owners contact information and see if I can contact them about the car that way I can confirm everything and also who knows, they may want to see pictures of it or something, it may mean a lot to them. Hopefully this coming week or two I will get this thing taken care of that way I have one worry about this car off my shoulders and I can get to work on it and get it running at least. Thanks for the info guys, I will definitely keep you updated!
  20. Wow I never get email notifications from this site and do not know about replies until MONTHS later. old rat 49, I am just South of Charlotte! As for my title, I never got it taken care of. It's something I keep putting off and really need to take care of this spring for sure. I went to the plates place locally here for my 80 El Camino and asked the lady about it. I told her I have a 46 Chrysler with the original title signed by the owner in Nevada. I told her I got it notarized and signed. She said bring it in and not to worry that I do not need a bill of sale or anything and she doesn't see any problem with it. My only problem and question I forgot to ask her was if the notarization needed to be a NC notary or Nevada or if it didn't matter... Now I just need to find someone to notarize it for me. Also there are two names signed on the title, the wife and husband...
  21. Man oh man your project is coming along nice! Remember me? This is FMXhellraiser from Club Hot Rod! I've been following your project on there like crazy. Actually made me go outside to check out my 46 Windsor today and try to put a plan together to get mine running and driving. Keep up the great work!
  22. Thanks BobT, I will just get it notarized anyways as if it were a regular NC title, type up some type of Bill of Sale possibly even though I do not think you NEED one here in NC but I always do it anyways. I will take it in and tell them it's a project car and will not be put on the road, licensed or anything until next summer. Wish me luck, I hope it works!
  23. oldrat49, I read your thread about your title problem. Do you think I am going to have the same deal with mine since it is a Nevada title? I sure hope not! Darn inspectors are going to give me trouble if they do because the car is behind my house currently and not very easy to get to the underside of it if I need the numbers off the frame...
  24. Wow guys sorry for such a late response on my own thread. I did not get an email notification on this thread and just totally forgot about it. I have yet to go to the DMV to sort this thing out but here is some more info on the Title I have... The original owner signed it including his wife's name but no date so I am clear on that thankfully. Now are you guys saying that since it's an out of state title it does NOT have to be notarized? Thanks a lot here guys! I am hoping to get this thing taken care of as soon as I have some time this week or next.
  25. I just found out yesterday that my title for my 46 Chrysler is NOT in my name and still in the original owners name. I knew this when buying the car but planned to get it taken care of right away. It's been a few years and I forgot about it until now. The title is a Nevada title and signed by the owner/name on the title but NOT notorized. Can I get a friend to notorize it here in NC or does it have to be a Nevada notory? I am not even sure if the owner is still alive or can be contacted. Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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