jmooner3

Sheetmetal with rad intact came off slick as heck. Roped it up to the rafters and out of the way. Started pulling some of the spaghetti out of the way, pervious owner rewired with yellow wire and left some old stuff...pretty confusing mess. Once I get the motor rolling over, I'll get back to the wiring. I'm going to pull the starter, generator, etc...should I pull the distributor off and out of the way too? If so how. I'm going to do as sugested, pull the frostplugs and water pump to get the water distribution system douched out. Suggestions welcpome. As for the oil pan, just got the doghouse off yesterday, closer look the pan is definitely shoehorned in over the steering and more importantly over the front cross member so it wont drop straight down. Funny thing with this 25" Desoto, I pryed on the generator to get the belt off and when I did the entire engine moved??? The front motor mounts that were altered to make the 25" motor fit where the orighinal 23 was were never welded to the frame. Engine is bolted to two pieces of U stock and set on the frame but the "yoke" that the two mounts are bolted to moved and the mounts slid on the cross member... The engine appears to be cocked a bit to the pass side (away from the steering box) is that normal? I'll tack these mounts eventually ( I pry left then right and the engine settles right were it is cocked a bit-concerns?) Regardless, had a good laugh that this thing was running 15 years ago just as it is engine flopping... It will save me a step to jack up the motor to pull the pan! The boys and I tinkered until 10PM - great questions and they are learning the things I didn't have the opportunity to at the young age! We are building memories now!

happy to help, someone on the forum graced me with some knowledge and passing it on is what this is about right!? J

Fernando - Try this page 23-12 http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/b_23.pdf more: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/pilothouse.htm Jay

Thanks Joel, I'm thinking that way too. I figure without the draglink and allowing the suspension to hang I may gain the space needed. I didnt' think of dropping the pan onto the cross before jacking the frame...Good idea I may get away with less of a pain in the butt then I think! The only show stopper is the pan's front hanging 2" over the front member(not original block it's 2" longer) doesn't allow it to drop straight down. I figure once I get the sheet metal off and have a good look at what I am up against I'll figure out how big of a hammer I need to get it off there ;-) As always - Any other tips welcome! Jay

You guys are the gods of Mopar! Honestly without the knowledge y'all are willing to share, this country-boy from Vermont would not have figured out where to start... Thanks Dave, The 25 inch block extends up over teh front cross member so teh pan cannot drop straight down. It looks like I need to pull steering linkage and jack the motor to get clearance... Pulling the pan, popping off rod caps and pulling pistons is pretty straight forward. I think, I remember it is important to keep caps with rods... As for the valves this is all new to me... You mentioned " knurl all my guides and tighten them up nicely" and "if replaced they then must be reamed back to size, after installation." - I also have read a bit about grinding seats etc... How will I know if I need to go deeply into the valves or not? I'm certainly not building a racecar...The goal I need to keep in front of me (and my checkbook) is I want to get this truck running so my boy can drive it out of the barn... Then get brakes in it, and then wiring, beyond that future is not clear. While I have the engine apart I want to attack the areas you guys from experience know to be major known problems and if there are parts I can determine are good and don't need additional attention I just as soon not spend the long dollar or time...I'm not lazy just broke and with two young boys in sports 'sparetime' is not abundant. What parts are an absolute must to "freshen" this engine: Obvioulsy I'll need head gasket and oil pan gaskets. If I can free the one bad piston I can get them out and mic the cyl...I suspect this measurement will determine what size rings I need- how will I know if my pistons are re-usable (you mentioned top ring land hammered out - how to measure or tell if my pistons are bad or re-useable?), frost plugs, (I will douche out the block as you suggested within an inch of it's life) any other seals or hardware needed for the coolent path beyond plugs, do I need a water distribution tube or just super-clean the one in there? Another stupid question, it looks like the valves on a flathead are accessable from two side pannels - you mention some difficulty in the timing cover area - do I need to get into the timing area to do the pistons and valves? Hoping to have some time this week to pull sheet metal, get it on stands, and pull the wheels so I can begin looking more closely at next steps.

Dave - Thanks for the info and encouragement - I'll be jacking the motor up to work on getting the oil pan off, after I have the sheet metal out of the way...Any last minute "watch-out" stuff I should know before jaking the motor is welcome...how high can I go before I risk breaking something in the drive train? Also do you have contact info for the "Terrell Machine shop" you mentioned in the post? I googled it and found one in SC but not Texas. Jay

Thanks Dave, the front clip of mine is "modified" by the previous owner. The radiator(probably not original) is pushed forward ~ 2inches to accomodate the 25" desoto block. The rad mount flange is welded to the front of the "U" frame that the fenders and rest of the doghose appear to built around...It's all unbolted as of today and ready to lift off... in a holding pattern till help arrives.

Thanks for sharing guys! Don - great looking motor! I've got the "doghouse" unbolted, just waiting on a buddy fo help lift it off. I'm in kinda tight quarters and it will need to come all the way up and over to get it out. After that I'll figure how much I can do in the truck and look again at pulling it out. Greybeard - There is no visible wear at the tops of the cyl a little surface rust but no real ring ridge edge to catch a nail on. (The first glimps of sunshine on this project so far...feels like tall cotton to me.) I'll need to get the pistons out and get a bore guage to be sure rebuilding without boring is even an option...Next step get the sheetmetal and rad out of the way...Then on to the next......Thanks again guys.

Grey Beard - Thanks for the words of wisdom, The stand I have has a chev 350 on it and it feels flimsy with that! From what you stated here it won't hold the Desoto. I'm game for working on it in the frame. However, I gotta get the oilpan off to get at the rod caps (especially for the stuck cyl) this 25" block extends 2" forward and causes the pan to be up over the cross member in front. I figure I can take off the front motor mounts and jack up the motor some, will that give me enough clearance to get the pan off? I haven't pulled the front sheet metal yet. 48 Dodger THANKS -The video will help there (gotta figure out the radiator, it is a cob-job welded in, different than the video shows.) Once I have a clearer look in there I may decide to give it a go in the frame - nothing lost in trying! How did you get your pan off with the engine in the truck? Head is off the engine, but the rest is generally in tact, should I try to clean out water jacket before I open the engine any more or just go ahead and work on getting the pan off? Jay

Hey Guys - I need to pull a motor out of a 1949 pilothouse truck. I'm going to freshen it here if I can avoid a machine shop bill. 5 cylinders are good one rusted, hoping I can hone it, new rings and put it back. I have never pulled a motor and could use some of the wealth of knowledge, pointers, and pitfalls from the forum... I received some good pointers from "Bobacuda", but welcome whatever you got to help me make it a "good" learning experience for me and my 10 and 7 year old boys...They are interested and the last thing I need is to hit a roadblock that makes it a bad experience for all of us, trying to keep my cussing to a minimum! That's where you guys come in! Key points, Engine is a 25" desoto as the original 23" was replaced before I got it. Rad looks to be welded or at least remounted forward to allow for the longer block and the front mounts are moved forward too. The Engine is seized, been soaking for a month in various snake-oils including Kroil - NoGo. Head is off, Coil, Oil filter, carb off. I suspect I need to pull intake and exhaust starter, generator... all that seems straight forward. How to disconnect the motor properly, what and how to disconnect the trans...Basically, Where and how to break the motor from the drive gear? And then best way (tricks) to lift out and put back in. Where to go first? Thanks Jay

OK - I've been working on this stuck cylinder in the truck, getting the pan off is proving to be a pain in the butt. How tough is it to pull the engine. Steps please? This is a 25" Desoto stuffed in a 49 Dodge pilot house. The rad is re-mounted a couple inches forward to accept the longer block. Should I pull the front clip (best way?). Are there just four motor mounts? Front two were modified by prefvious owner and moved forward 2", those seem easy, the rear looks like a yolk is there just two there too? What linkage do I need to be midful of (tranny etc)and how to best move the engine out of the truck? I guess I have been intimidated with pulling the engine to this point but now am considering it...The head is off the radiator is disconnected, coil, oilfilter, etc . is off...Seems like getting the cyl free and honed might be an easier task on the engine stand...(I'm still thinking I can freshen this engine without the cost of a full bore and rebuild). To lift the engine do you thread in four 7/16 eye bolts and chain to that? Is that enough to lift this out? I have a chain fall and can rig a gantry, I may have access to an engine hoist if I bribe a buddy with Beer... Any tips and pointers welcome! Thanks Guys!

Thanks Greg, I don't have an engine hoist - What's the best way to get the motor up? Can I jack on the underside? I suspect you can't jack right on the oil pan? The truck is in a barn with truss roof, I can build a lift to get it from the top but if there is a way to jack from the bottom that would be easier. And how far up can I go before I risk screwing up linkage in the rear or rear mounts letting go? I think if I get the steering linkage out of the way and get the front motor mounts up on a couple 2/4s as you suggest I can pull that pan.

Working on a 1949 B1B built in California, It has a stuck cyl - some great insight from Greg g, 1949P17BC, Townwagon....etc. Figured I'd post to the forum and see if anyone has wiggled a 25" pan out of a 49 pilot house. Original motor was a 23inch block now it has a 25inch 1950 Desoto. I'm looking at the pan and it looks like it is shoehorned in. The previous owner moved the front motor mounts and the rad to fit it in...That said I suspect the original 23" pan would have slid right out from the front cross memeber and cleared the axel and steering linkage...I haven't tried it yet but this pan goes up over the front cross member where the original rad sat I suspect and no room at the clutch/trans. Even with the steering linkage out of the way, It looks like there is not enough play to get it out? Anyone worked a 25" pan out of a B1B? Strategy to do this in the truck or am I back to pulling the motor? Pix attached. Thanks Jay

After some excellent input from the wealth of knowledge here on the forum...especaily "townwagon" Eric, I found my serial number on the front driverside frame rail, same location as Eric stated, mine was a little higher and more forward. Frame had some paint mixed with the rust but a brass wire brush and a bunch of scratching... it was there where he said it would be...Good luck finding yours.

Great advice! Please keep it coming. Makes perfect sense to work on only the offending piston and not the rolling mass of the engine guts. I'm looking at the pan and it looks like it is shoehorned in. This is a 1950 Desoto (25" motor) the previous owner moved the front motor mounts and the rad to fit it in from the top...That said I suspect the original 23" pan would have slid right out from the front cross memeber and cleared the axel and steering linkage...I haven't tried it yet but this pan goes up over the front cross member where the original rad sat I suspect and is tight to the clutch/trans. It looks like there is not enough play to get it out? Anyone worked a 25" pan out of a B1B? Strategy to do this in the truck or am I back to pulling the motor? Pix attached. Thanks Jay

49 Dodge pilothouse with 50 deSoto flathead 6 -->Cylinder #6 is still stuck. couple weeks with Marvel mystery oil, and a wrench=no go. Pulled the head, couple weeks with Pb Blaster, block-o wood and a hammer...no go. Can't tell if there are valves stuck too any way to verify this? 5 cyl seem free only one bonded and won't pass the oil down. Waiting on a shipment of Kroil (recomended by several of the experts here) I'll mix up a cocktail for ol' #6...hopfully I can get it freed up. A few have offered advice on what next. WHEN I get it freed up how to proceed. Some say clean up the cyl and go. Others say hone the cyl with piston in place, still others say pull the piston, hone and re-install. I'd like to avoid pulling the motor and rebuilding if I can...purely a $ decision. I suspect regardless it makes sense to pull the oil pan, clean out the different oils and any shavings...Does it make sense to pull the one piston if I can free it and get new rings I suspect the rings are shot if it's bonded to the cyl?...any other advice to get me to the next step welcome... My goal is to make this a runner, it aint pretty and I don't care if it smokes and sputters at this point, I want do some learning with my 10 year old and take him for a ride in this ol bucket. We'll refine system by system once we make the next milestone. We're havin' fun tinkering together, just interested in more input on what is the right thing to do with this stubborn ol motor. Thanks Jay

TownWagon - Thanks for the insight, the number on the tag is indeed 9237064, B1B 108...The motor is a Desoto, could the tag number be from something other than a 48/49 Dodge? The hood has two points instead of the ram any indicator there?

I filled the cyl with PB blaster this morning and just ordered the Kroil...I'll make a cocktail this old desoto block likes or die trying! As for the honing of cyl in the truck, provided I do get the cyl to move, any tricks to running a hone in the cyl? It is #6 cyl right against the firwall, I saw some 3-stone hones for sale for ~$30. I suspect you run them on a drill, low speed? I finally got around to snapping a couple pix of the truck. Any idea what the hood ornements are from on this thing? I think it was supposed to have the ram not these two pointers, holes are leaded in on the center of the hood. Anyone got a cheap hood ornement in decent shape for sale?

I'll re-check the SN to be sure I got the mumber right? I'll get a couple pictures out here soon! Good advice to get er' running as is and then go component by component... Not looking to build a show truck just a driver. I'm stuck at square one-at engine right now. Does anyone know the firing order of these 6 cylinders? I know the one that is rusted is the one closest to the firewall. If I do manage to break it free what are the chances I can skip a rebuild and get decent compression out of a rusted cylinder...any tricks for emery cloth or wire brush the cylinder in the truck? Is there any method to help my chances of "smoothing" the cyl wall without pulling and bringing to a machinist? Still welcoming ideas of what to bathe it in as I re-visit daily with a BFH and block o' wood. It's got marvel mystery in it now. Buddy tells me he swears by PB blaster and have seen several votes for Kroil. Where can I get Kroil? All your wisdome welcome! Thanks again, Jay :eek:

Hey folks -Jay from Vermont here, I have a 49 pilot with a flat head 6. I have a ton of questions please offer up any info you have! Much appreciated!!! The previous owner cobbed this truck together with bubble gum and bandaids, no breaks, point to point wire- all the same color some missing, etc.. It's just short of a basket case... Looking for any info people can offer on what this actually is. Engine serial is S1438768 and is 25 inches long. No plate on the pillar but found one in the glove box(maybe from this truck) Serial 92377064, B1B also there is a plate screwed to the firewall drivers side 4712172639. The engine is seized pulled the head today (what is the order of the cylindars?) not sure of number but the cylinder closest to the firewall looks like a bubbling rust mess. It's in a bath of marvel mystery now hoping a big hammer and block of wood will cure...Ideas..I hear Kroil is the stuff? Walls look pretty pitted, any ideas? Where can I get a copy of manuals for this truck? If I can free the engine I'll continue the project. I've had this truck in my barn for ~15years, my 10 year old is the one that got me going on this :-) I love it! I wish I knew more to pass on to him...with y'all's help he and I will learn together. I guess I'm long winded - any info or advice welcome!!! Thanks J