Justin Slingsby

Okay so is that 260 Advertised Duration (12)?

Do you know if that is 260 for both intake and exhaust? Is this 260 at Advertised Duration (50)?

It seems that would be the case if I wasn't correcting this motor to run regular rotation.

Thanks much Don. Does anyone else have any different specifications that they are running?

Okay so to freshen this topic up. I just got my 230 back from the machine shop. When I tore the motor down I noticed that the timing set is Cam gear running on Crank gear. This leads me to believe that it is a reverse rotation motor. SO I am using a new oil pump and new water pump and the cam and distributor out of my 218. As I am researching the cam grinds for this motor a important point was made today.. SInce my motor is reverse rotation the oiling holes in the crank are also reverse rotation. Do I need to redrill my Crank so that it picks up oil for regular rotation? If I do this do I need to rebalance my crank? Is this worth my time? Or should I seek another 230 crank that is regular rotation?

Hello! I need some help. I am to the point of my 230 Dodge rebuild that I need to consider a different cam. I contacted Edgy and he told me that his 260 duration .410 lift is the cam I could consider. My build currently is a 230 Dodge/Chrysler (Industrial Motor) that is .060 over milled head Fenton intake with dual Ball & Ball carbs George Asche split exhaust. Petronix Igniter II I would like to have a cam that is a little hotter ground for this motor. I took a 218 stock cam to Berry Cam Services in Lester Prairie MN He set my cam up on his dial indicator and I have what sounds to me a more aggressive cam that what Edgy recommends. Can someone school me on this? Here are my current specs Intake Cam lift 375 Advertised Duration (12) 252 Duration (50) 208 Exhaust Cam lift 380 Advertised Duration (12) 270 Duration (50) 210 This is the cam out of my 218. This is a motor I believe is not rebuilt. I would like to use this cam in my 230 because my 230 Chrysler ended up being a reverse rotation Yale motor. Why does this sound like a more aggressive cam than what Edgy quoted me? A good friend of mine has a 1949 Plymounth with a well built 218 with a 230 crank. He had his cam ground at Berry as well and he had a Junior 400 grind put on his cam which I am to believe is a little over 3/4 grind. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

I am currently looking for a 230 flywheel.

How bout put this crank and rods into my 218?

Okay here are the tags off of my Chrysler Industrial block.. Can someone help me decipher them? I have been told this is a 230ci engine. Are there differences between this and 218 flywheel flanges>

Yes it has been awhile can someone school me on how to post images again?

Sorry had to step away for a couple of years to catch up on house and family. During that time I broke my 218. My guess is rod bearing or wrist pin as it has quite a knock. I kept my Chrysler Industrial engine and I think I am going to use it for some parts. Specifically the Crank and rods as I believe this motor is a 230ci. Here is the identification taken from the block https://www.dropbox.com/s/p0050336khztdda/identification.jpg?dl=0

Perfect! Thanks much..

So I am finally getting around to addressing this issue. Last night I replaced the switch, no problem after letting it sit and soak in penetrant. The plugs are a different story however. Since the car still retains its original wiring the plugs are in need of replacement. Who has the plugs for this brake switch?

Okay so I have a new switch. I am soaking the old switch in penetrant to see if I can remove without twisting off the brake line. The old switch is crrrrrusteeeeee. When I remove the old switch should I be doing something to prevent loss of fluid or risking the possibility of getting air in my lines? Should I only put the rear of the car on jack stands so it is higher than the master?

The brake pedal has play. I would say almost an inch before the brake lights come on.

No real change in the pedal pressure or height. It was hot last week and it was doing it randomly. It is cooler this week and it is doing it more frequently. However when it was hot, the lights would be on as soon as I shut the car off. Now they are coming on after the car has been sitting awhile after being driven.

I am not sure if this has been discussed before or not. I am having troubles with the Brake switch/brake system in my Plymouth. If I drive the car I have no problems with the brakes or brake lights. However as the car sits the system builds pressure and turns my brake lights on. A quick tap to the pedal and my brake lights come off. The car still has the original brake switch. I am running Ron Francis signal housings. Do I have a switch problem or an electrical issue? It has become more frequent and this morning I was greeted with a dead battery.

Wow that is a great deal! This is something that I have been putting off. Maybe it is time to rebuild....

moose I remember that car from when I used to come out to the Road Agents show! Good times! Dynaflash I am not sure why you are giving up on that car. If you have another 6 why don't you put it in the 47?

busycoupe is right. Delahaye. I think that pic is of an original but they are bringing them back for $500,000. http://www.delahayeusa.com/saoutchik.html

Andydodge, I love your car. I have wanted a 41 for awhile now! Are you running big and littles for tire combo?

Yeah it wasn't the cheapest route but I drive the car all over so I wanted it to be safe. I paid $275 for everything. New main leaf and the rest of springs de arched 3.5 and 4" all new grade 8 hardware, all new bushings. I want the car low but it still has to be safe.

What keep you from de-arching the springs? I did this. I had a new main leaf made and had my rear springs de-arched 4". I had my done at a heavy duty truck shop where they service suspension. They were able to do the springs bushings and hardware. I just had to install. Previously I was running 3" blocks but that put my hardware outside of the scrub line. and as mentioned that can make for a pretty scary flat tire. Now I don't even run blocks at all.

Fixed it. Loose linkage at the clutch pivot arm that is on the frame and at the gear selector at the top of the column. Now the thing shifts like new!

A good friend of mine is building a 27 T hot rod. He has a mystery dash that he can't identify. I wanna say Desoto but I don't think that is right either. Here is the link for it on the HAMB. Does anyone have an idea as to what this dash is? AC gauges? Is that GM? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5691809#post5691809