andyd

I'd check with any local tyre/wheel shop, the easiest maybe having the stock centres cut from the original wheels and then installed in new 16" rims of the width you want......only issue maybe that the new rims may not have the same shape/style of rim as the originals but doing it this way means you still use the original centres..........years ago it was a common thing here in Oz to widen original rims  by cutting in half then inserting a piece to widen the rim.....only problem doing it this way is that it required two weld beads which the local registration dept didn't like......lol.......I'm a hotrodder so I just stuck Wheel Vintiques Chrome Smoothies 15x6 & 15X7 with the standard back spacing on my 41 Coupe....looked great......sold the car like a dope........lol.........andyd

SteveR......re the pic that Sniper posted, the steering box pitman arm uses a ball to locate inside the tubular end of the drag link..........there will be some sort of adjustment arrangement where the pitman arm locates in the drag link.........work out how its attached and it should have some sort of pin locking the adjustmant ...........but we are talking about the firewall end of the drag link.........Steve....are you talking about the axle end of the drag link?, the steering arm you refer to at the front?......andyd

Yep, thats what I thought as well......andyd

Welcome aboard from Oztralia.......these guys know their stuff........looking forward to pics of your car.......regards from oz,Andyd

I've had other types of glass lens stuck to the brackets, seals or gaskets etc & have found that spraying WD40 or similar around the edge of the lens helps to loosen it..........andyd

Yep, look under the car just in front of the Parking Brake assembly on the gearbox.......the speedo cable screws into a slightly downward angled thing on the drivers side of the gearbox tailpiece.....regards from Oztralia.......andyd  

Well...I have no idea why it worked this time..........lol.............but whatever you did P15-D24 I thanks you.......lol...............regards from Oz.......andyd

Firemunkey...........I had a 41 Plymouth Coupe but sold it like a dope, I still have my 1940 Dodge sedan since 1971.....52 yrs...that piece you have is called the Upper Front Fender Shield, either right or left.......Right is # 864992, Left is # 865039.....I'm not sure how its determined which is right or left but the one you have is the US Passenger side as indicated by the 2nd pic............therefore I assume you need the US Drivers Side  ...the curvature allows the front of the passenger fender to bolt onto it.....the rusty edges fit against and bolt to the radiator support piece that the radiator bolts into.
...........There is also a sheet metal piece that bolts onto the lower edge of each of the Fender shields and sits behind the actual grille sheet metal panels and against the front of the lower tank of radiator, sort of like a piece that directs air into the radiator.....its about 20" wide and about 10" deep, a triangular piece that dips in the middle to give the crank handle some clearance.
.............I have a 1936-42 Master Parts List Book but can't find this part listed......lol......funny thing was when I bought my 41 Coupe it was missing this piece and I found it on US ebay, had it sent to me here in Australia and it made the whole front sheet metal much more solid.......anyway heres a pic of my 41 Coupe, a Detroit factory RHD car that was assembled in South Africa & imported into Oz in the 1980/1990's.......... I owned it from 2007 to 2013........lol.......anyway I hope this helps.........regards from Oz........Andy Douglas    

The kingpin front suspension does NOT use "Ball Joints" anywhere........Ball Joints were used on the outer upper & outer lower pivot points from 1957 Chrysler products.
        The Chrysler/Dodge/DeSoto and Plymouth cars from 1939 to 1956 on their Inner & Outer suspension pivot points used bushings and pins, and bronze bushed steel Kingpins for the steering pivots.
         The steering tierod assembly used 4 tierod ends, two each of left and right hand threaded tierod ends that fitted into similarly left and right hand threaded tubular tierods which allowed toein/toeout adjustment.
        If you are having problems finding "ball joints" for your 1953 Plymouth it maybe due to the terminology you are using......try searching for "tie rod ends" or similar or inner/outer bushings & pins or kingpins......not trying to be pedantic, regards & welcome from Oztralia.......andyd   

Generally speaking you should
remove the hood,
remove the radiator,
remove the bumper with its irons,
then undo the two nuts inside the front crossmember under the radiator support
then undo all the brackets etc holding the headlight wiring to the inner fenders,
then look under each fender at the rear and undo any bolts holding the fender to the running board,
then undo the bolts holding the rear of the fender to the sides of the cowl,
then undo the two bolts on each side hold the top edge of the fender side panel to the cowl,
then undo any wiring like headlights etc from their connectors
then methodically look around the whole front clip for any bolts,brackets etc that may still need unding
then finally with ideally at least one if not 2 friends lift the complete front fender & grille assembly unit off the chassis and gently place it out of the way, being careful not to stretch ,bend, or upset any of the joining areas of the fenders, etc..............andyd