andyd

Have you tried Andy Bernbaums?.....I have found them to be good to use.........but have not had good dealings with Steele Rubber.........my Oztralian 2 cents worth........andyd

The link posted shows the adaptor with the actual bolt to bolt measurement.........go measure your carb bolt to bolt and theres your answer.........and brand spanking new 97's are available now.........andyd.

Not sure if this helps but the only fuse that was in the wiring circuit in my 1940 Dodge was attached to the end of the headlight switch.......its no longer like that now.......lol......nice looking car BTW.....is there anything else electrical in the car which doesn't work now?.......if its just the top then it would seem that would be the 1st thing to check........andyd

Chrysleritis.......congratulations on a mammoth job........and I am impressed........regards from Oztralia......andyd

Mad201.....thats an interesting IFS conversion, looks basically like a Mustang11 style .........I was going to suggest that a XJ6 Jaguar front end might work....they are quite common conversions here in Australia, ideally the Mk 2 or 3 XJ6 are the preferred ones, they come with manual or a power rack & pinion, vented discs with Chev bolt pattern and are a neat bolt in style of suspension althought the upper shock mount has to be fabricated but is not that difficult........regards from Oztralia.....andyd

Saskwatch.......I've been wearing glasses since I was 13, now 71........so I have 4eyes........able to see things....lol......andyd

Michael.........the 25" engine was very common here in Oz from the late 40's onwards, and certainly in the Oz Chrysler Royals from 1957-1962.....if you have a workshop manual that covers the 250 engine then that should surfice...........I'd suggest that when ordering parts from the USA suppliers do not mention that its for a Dodge as the Yanks will then say that you need parts for a 23" engine.......lol..............what you need are parts for the "1957 DeSoto that you have".......try Andy Berbaums, I've found them to be good to deal with for over 40 yrs.......what exactly are you looking for?......regards from Oz........Andy Douglas

Your problem will probably be that back in the 1960's you may have found an adaptor fairly common but nowadays maybe not so..........and being in Belgium will probably not help........(I'm in Australia so can relate to the problem myself)....have you pulled the original wheel off and taken some measurements?.....any chance you maybe able to compare the size, ie, diiameter, spine count, etc against a Ford column for which you may be able to find an adaptor.....good luck in the hunt..and Welcome aboard from Oztralia.......andyd

The steering stop bolt goes on the rear of the stub axle as Plymouthy has said.... on my Oz 1940 Dodge(essentially a 1940 Plymouth), I used the later, 41-54 style (used up to 1962 on the Oz Chrysler Royals) stub axles which again have the stop bolt at the rear.......andyd

Nice work on the tool.......I have a question tho' regarding the spring pockets on the A Arms........are you running airbags?.........andyd

I could be wrong here but generally the old non pressure radiators use a cap that is either deeper or not as deep between the cap and the rubber seal.......can't remember which it is but I'd think that I'd try a cap for an English car from the 30's or 40's....isn't there a radiator shop anywhere close that you could contact..........surely the Pommies can't be that backward that if you say you need a non pressurised cap they should know what you mean..............lol.......andyd

I'm no expert but I'd be surprised if the "clunk" on full lock is the kingpins, I'd think more likely its the steering box bearings and/or worm & sector......also as your 1937 plymouth steering box is mounted with a different arangement to the independant front ends from 1939 I'd also check the actual steering box mounting bolts and as it uses a drag link that moves forward & back also check it for any excessive wear or movement...........again I'm no expert so these are purely some ideas I've had sitting here in Oz 12,000 miles away.....lol.........andyd

Fatman Fabrications used to make dropped Spindles but AFAIK the business has closed......the stock spindles are to suit both sides however once the lower outer bush is installed then they become "handed" .........the stub axles are also "handed" however the 4 king pin bushes in each new king pin set are installed 2 per stub axle and don't care whether each go top or bottom in the stub axle........as far as lowering the front end is concerned an old trick was to cut 1 coil from the front coil springs........this is not the best way to lower but if going to do this do not use oxy to cut the coil spring....pull the front end apart & at least use a cut off wheel which doesn't heat the spring unduely...........another way to lower the front end is to remove the lower A arms then remove and remount the lower coil spring "pocket" on the low side of the A Arms effectively allowing the A Arm to move higher & therefore "lower" the car height...........and a third way is to install a heavier engine, ie, a V8 of some sort..........lol.............BTW what is the "trunnion" that you refer to?.......welcom aboard from Oztralia...andyd

Apart from ensuring that the steering box has some sort of lubricant in it, ideally a proper steering box oil tho' guys on here swear by that "Corn head grease" I'd be checking what air pressure is in the tyres......I'd be running them at around 35psi.......or at least check with a reputable tyre supply place re what pressure the tyres can handle.....andyd

Yep that appears to be broke...........unfortunately any Oz ones I have are completely different........a suggestion would be if a drivers door lock is hard to find then try to find a 4dr sedaan rear passenger side door handle assembly.....in "theory" it should be the same tho' the long accuating piece will be different shaped.......andyd