andyd

Only Mopar...can you clarify exactly what you need?.......the door glass fits into a metal channel that has the winder arms attached to......do you need this channel.......or do you need the what I know as "Bailey" channel which is "fur" lined channel that the window edge slides up & down on........there is also a single edged piece of this "fur" or fuzzy stuff where the opening for the window is that acts against the inside & outside of the door glass when it moves up & down........apologies if I have confused the issue even more.......andyd

Loren........good information...........tho' here in Oz all mopar products made or sold here from WW2 owards were Plymouth based, ie, Plymouth, Dodge & DeSoto...and the only Chrysler badged cars from 1957 to 1962, the Oz only Chrysler Royals were 53/54 Plymouth based.......lol......regards from Oztralia.........andyd

Those blue urethane sway bar bushings were found at the local spare parts place here in South Grafton, Oztralia...........the blue ones are the 2nd set I've used....the original ones I used were red...lol.......but could only find blue ones a couple of years ago when I replaced the worn red ones........lol.......I can't recall whether I made new clamps,used the original clamps or found some others that were similar.......the sway bars been there for 45 yrs or so.....lol........andyd

Dunno if this is any use as we never got 7 passenger or limo mopars after WW2 but if you don't have any window channels at all it maybe worth finding a 46-48 Dodge Parts Manual to at least be able to possibly see what you need or what could fit............ I'd also think that the window channels for the front doors from a standard length 4dr Sedan would be the same as the 7 passenger car, not sure about the rear doors but the channels should be the same basic design & operation and you maybe able to adapt the short rear door pieces to your longer rear doors..........the front window wing vents should be the same in all closed body cars, ie, 2,4 door and 7 passenger or Limo ..........1/4 vents, AFAIK have the glass held in with what I know as "setting tape" and any good glass shop should be able to fit the 1/4 vent glass........andyd

Actually the "street rod" term was even used in the 1950's to differentiate from the speedway/dirt track "hot rods".....but no one drove their car with rust etc and called it finished.......it was always a work in progress......lol.....see my pic of my Dodge with the partially finished widened rear fenders........before a thin skim of "bog" & paint.....andyd

As far as I know, it doesn't make any difference where the pump arm locates against the fuel pump cam, the camshaft rotates and the pump cam lobe rotates and pushes against the lever making the lever operate the pump diaphram and suck & pump fuel........if you have had the same problem with 3 different pumps then I'd think the issue is not the pump/s......have you checked the float level in the carby, etc?

Well, as a hotrodder let me reply.....lol..........at 17yrs old & still at school I bought my 1940 Dodge 4dr Sedan in 1971 for $15.00, it was complete down to the hubcaps, owners manual & 6weeks registration but a non goer due to burnt ignition wires.....got it towed home, decided to restore it, over 18mths & my 1st well paying job I had the engine gearbox, diff, brakes all restored then the engine decided to leak & I pulled the sump & rear main & discovered swarf still in the sump and scored bearings.........severe dose of the shits occured so I decided to "hot rod" the car.......bought a 1962 Oz Chrysler Royal & installed its 313 Poly auto, diff etc and over the ensueing couple of years a rack & pinion, 4 wheel disc brakes, repaint, widened rear fenders, etc etc, etc.....sold off all the stock bits and what you see is what the car has been since essentially 1973.....a Hotrod........upsets the restorers but its my car, I've had it for 52 years now and I even get the odd grudgingly positive comment from those restorers who poo-pooed me and the car......BTW Loren.......that T5 adaptor that came with your recent purchase offers the ability to bolt a T5 OVERDRIVE gearbox without all the hassles of solenoids and electrical crap that accompanies the stock mopar overdrive gearboxes...... ........anyway.........heres a couple of pics of the ol' brown *******(1971 Chrysler Mahogany Metallic)...the 1st couple of pics shows the 1940 Dodge Coupe I'd pulled apart and originally bought the 4dr sedan to use as a parts car for, then a pic showing the Dodge on its 1st trip with the V8 in 1973 then a pic showing the rear fenders getting a 2" widening piece and a recent pic of the car & engine bay......regards from Oztralia......Andy Douglas

I've not read anything to confirm my suggestion but I suppose that the use of the 25" engine instead of both it and the 23" was possibily due to Mopar trying to use the one engine, ie the 25" in all Canadian Mopars as a cost cutting exercise due to the smaller market.........tho' here in Oz we got BOTH engines, the 23" and 25" in the same model from 1957-62 in the Oz only Chrysler Royals which were essentially 53/54 Plymouths with 55/56 Plymouth front & rear fenders grafted onto the early body shell.........depending on what gearbox was ordered, ie standard 3 speed then you got that behind the 23" 230 cube engine but if you wanted the overdrive gearbox or Powerflite or Torqueflite Auto then that was attached to the 25" 250 cube engine ......and if you had a need of a V8 then you got the 301 then 313 Poly but only with the 3 speed Torqueflite , no manual V8's were sold in Oz..............the 25" engine basically fitted in the engine bay that had the 23" engine with the extra length projecting forward by virtue of relocating the radiator.

I assume that the chair is bolted down onto something sturdy......lol...........you're braver than me Gunga Din.....lol.andyd

I've seen various things used for these seals over the years....large "O" rings can usually be found at engineering or hydraulic supply shops, also have seen various diameters of radiator hose used, radiator hose of the correct diameter then cut to about 1/2" in width, the original tool to assist in getting the seals installed is shown in most workshop manuals and works similar to a "shoe horn" which allows the foot or in this case, the seals to slip between the upper A arm and spindle bush.......hope this helps.........andyd

Or you can bite the bullet and get a Beehive Oil Filter that comes witha list of about 10 different brands of filters that fit.........plus it looks "fast"........lol.....andyd

WOW.........thats a great Plymouth........love the colour scheme, I could live with that car........you've had a win with this one.........andyd

A common rack & pinion installation is the Cavalier/J2000 rack which is a "centre steer" rack, ie the tierods pivot from the centre of the rack.........pics....we love pics........lol......andyd

Styro.........you mentioned that you want a "Tudor"............do you mean a 2 Door Sedan?, 2 Door Business Coupe(short roof) or the 2 Door Club Coupe(longer roof).......all were available from 1942 to 1948.........I think "Tudor" was the Ford term for their 2 door Sedan which might confuse your search...........either way good luck in the hunt...........andyd

Welcome aboard from Oztralia........looks like a decent start, its a Business Coupe?........318/727 seems like a proper combo........whats the rest like?.........how complete is it.....brakes,suspension etc?.......we are an inquisitive bunch...lol......Andyd