andyd

Chrysleritis.......congratulations on a mammoth job........and I am impressed........regards from Oztralia......andyd

Mad201.....thats an interesting IFS conversion, looks basically like a Mustang11 style .........I was going to suggest that a XJ6 Jaguar front end might work....they are quite common conversions here in Australia, ideally the Mk 2 or 3 XJ6 are the preferred ones, they come with manual or a power rack & pinion, vented discs with Chev bolt pattern and are a neat bolt in style of suspension althought the upper shock mount has to be fabricated but is not that difficult........regards from Oztralia.....andyd

Saskwatch.......I've been wearing glasses since I was 13, now 71........so I have 4eyes........able to see things....lol......andyd

Michael.........the 25" engine was very common here in Oz from the late 40's onwards, and certainly in the Oz Chrysler Royals from 1957-1962.....if you have a workshop manual that covers the 250 engine then that should surfice...........I'd suggest that when ordering parts from the USA suppliers do not mention that its for a Dodge as the Yanks will then say that you need parts for a 23" engine.......lol..............what you need are parts for the "1957 DeSoto that you have".......try Andy Berbaums, I've found them to be good to deal with for over 40 yrs.......what exactly are you looking for?......regards from Oz........Andy Douglas

Your problem will probably be that back in the 1960's you may have found an adaptor fairly common but nowadays maybe not so..........and being in Belgium will probably not help........(I'm in Australia so can relate to the problem myself)....have you pulled the original wheel off and taken some measurements?.....any chance you maybe able to compare the size, ie, diiameter, spine count, etc against a Ford column for which you may be able to find an adaptor.....good luck in the hunt..and Welcome aboard from Oztralia.......andyd

The steering stop bolt goes on the rear of the stub axle as Plymouthy has said.... on my Oz 1940 Dodge(essentially a 1940 Plymouth), I used the later, 41-54 style (used up to 1962 on the Oz Chrysler Royals) stub axles which again have the stop bolt at the rear.......andyd

Nice work on the tool.......I have a question tho' regarding the spring pockets on the A Arms........are you running airbags?.........andyd

I could be wrong here but generally the old non pressure radiators use a cap that is either deeper or not as deep between the cap and the rubber seal.......can't remember which it is but I'd think that I'd try a cap for an English car from the 30's or 40's....isn't there a radiator shop anywhere close that you could contact..........surely the Pommies can't be that backward that if you say you need a non pressurised cap they should know what you mean..............lol.......andyd

I'm no expert but I'd be surprised if the "clunk" on full lock is the kingpins, I'd think more likely its the steering box bearings and/or worm & sector......also as your 1937 plymouth steering box is mounted with a different arangement to the independant front ends from 1939 I'd also check the actual steering box mounting bolts and as it uses a drag link that moves forward & back also check it for any excessive wear or movement...........again I'm no expert so these are purely some ideas I've had sitting here in Oz 12,000 miles away.....lol.........andyd

Fatman Fabrications used to make dropped Spindles but AFAIK the business has closed......the stock spindles are to suit both sides however once the lower outer bush is installed then they become "handed" .........the stub axles are also "handed" however the 4 king pin bushes in each new king pin set are installed 2 per stub axle and don't care whether each go top or bottom in the stub axle........as far as lowering the front end is concerned an old trick was to cut 1 coil from the front coil springs........this is not the best way to lower but if going to do this do not use oxy to cut the coil spring....pull the front end apart & at least use a cut off wheel which doesn't heat the spring unduely...........another way to lower the front end is to remove the lower A arms then remove and remount the lower coil spring "pocket" on the low side of the A Arms effectively allowing the A Arm to move higher & therefore "lower" the car height...........and a third way is to install a heavier engine, ie, a V8 of some sort..........lol.............BTW what is the "trunnion" that you refer to?.......welcom aboard from Oztralia...andyd

Apart from ensuring that the steering box has some sort of lubricant in it, ideally a proper steering box oil tho' guys on here swear by that "Corn head grease" I'd be checking what air pressure is in the tyres......I'd be running them at around 35psi.......or at least check with a reputable tyre supply place re what pressure the tyres can handle.....andyd

Yep that appears to be broke...........unfortunately any Oz ones I have are completely different........a suggestion would be if a drivers door lock is hard to find then try to find a 4dr sedaan rear passenger side door handle assembly.....in "theory" it should be the same tho' the long accuating piece will be different shaped.......andyd

Rich, I'm not sure whether the V8 came with a manual trans, however assuming its an auto it will be the Powerflite 2 speed auto, these had the park or emergency brake mounted on the end of the transmission, no "Park" was in the trans......overall suspension should be very similar to what was used in previous mopars tho' I think the front shocks are mounted between the coil springs not separately like up to the early 50's........there were 2 versions of the 270 engine used.......a Red Ram polysphere 270 cube with a 2 barrel Carter and a Super Red Ram Hemi headed 270 cube with a choice of either the 2 barrel Carter or a 4 barrel Carter............sounds like a nice car.......andyd

Ed, AFAIK the parking or emergency brake by then should be the internal expanding style which is basically what they had up to the end of that transmission fitted brake.......if it is then you undo the slip joint four bolts onto the brake drum, then using a large pry bar or large screw driver place it between the 4 studs allowing space for a large socket on another pry bar to undo the center nut, then remove the brake drum(having made sure the brake is now "off")..........then you can disassemble the brake parts....there should be a large flat spring steel thing that locks into the centre of the assembly with "arms" that go either side of the assembly to hold the brake shoes.......take this spring thing off and undo the cable adjuster and thats about it.......get the shoes relined and reassemble.............take note of the way the cable adjuster is installed so that the adjusting rachet can be accessed thru the brake backing plate hole........I hope this makes sense........lol...........this is the procedure I've used over the past 50 yrs......lol........andyd

Lots of luck with Steele.........andyd