perry jones

Check out my master cylinder conversion on 3/1/11. I also swapped out the rear end with a Jeep Cherokee. Only had to notch the Cherokee spring pads and add a 4 degree shim on each side. The drive shaft and U joints interchanged. Also put in Charlie's disc brake kit. Put in a rebuilt steering box. Now doing a new wire harness. Perry Jones 505-281-1177

The fittings are inverted flare. Tried them this morning. Had to rotate the steering column clamp then had plenty of clearance. Perry

I just finished installing a Disc/Drum master cylinder for manual brakes into my 51 B3B. It took some time but it was not too hard. Had to shave .20" off the mounting surface and round off the back end to clear the steering column. Had to shorten the push rod .675". The hardest part was drilling and tapping the mounting holes. The passenger side hole ended up at the edge of the old mounting surface where it dropped off to the mounting casting. Had to grind a flat spot with a dremmel to get a spot to drill and tap the hole. The master cylinder is from Speedway Motors Part No. 910-31420 $34.99. The old M/C was 1.0" stroke and the pedal stroke is 1.5". The new M/C is 1.0" bore and 1.25" stroke. This should work just fine with the Disc/Drum set up. I plan on using Charlie's conversion kit and have a Jeep Cherokee differential ready to swap. If you want to contact me. Perry Jones 505-281-1177, 505-331-5467 pjs34s@q.com Hope this useful. Perry

As I understand this is a drum/drum MC and can be changed over to a disc/drum by removing the residual pressure valve. Ask for Steve at Master Power Brakes. Perry

Saw the info on this forum. Perry

I talked with Steve at Master Power Brakes today about a master cylinder 6.75 long with a 1" bore. They have a drum/drum #MC11488M that Steve will remove the residual pressure valve from to convert to a disc/drum. The cost is $89.95 no charge for the conversion. This should solve the master cylinder problem to convert to disc brakes or have a dual master cylinder with all drum brakes. This MC is 6.75" from mounting surface to tail. You will have to drill new mounting holes as this has two horizontal mounting holes. I sent my steering box off my 51 B3B to C&J Automotive in Southgate, Ca. today to be rebuilt because there were no shims and the adjustment screw was cranked all the way to the end. They said around $150. To remove the steering wheel you can drill two holes in the steering wheel and use a wheel puller. I made a loop out of .125 x 1" steel strap drilled a hole in the ends opened it up to slip around the column and then connected together with a .250 x 20 carriage bolt and then used a three jaw puller. Still took a while to remove the steering wheel. Sorry to go on and on but I thought this was usable info. Perry Jones 505-281-1177 34 Dodge PU with a Hemi, 34 Ply with a 360.

I use a flexable choke cable with the inner wire removed. I have two diameters. The smaller one about 3/32" works great. You can attach it to a variable speed drill on slow rpm. Be sure you run it the same direction as the winding on the cable. I have done this on my 34 Dodge, 34 Plymouth and 51 B3B. Perry

Be sure to remove the tank float and make sure the in tank fuel pick up is clear when done. Other wise you will be cleaning the float and have a hard time clearing the fuel line pickup. Perry

I am 63 - retire Friday. Have a 51 B3B, 34 Dodge PU with Hemi, a 34 Plymouth with a 360 and a 51 Studebaker Starlight coupe. I think I wiil be kept busy in retirement. Perry Jones

Thanks I have the option of the engine and trans. Would the complete eng and trans be easier? Thanks Perry jones

New Member has a few questions. I have a 51 B3B 4 sp. Pilot-House and was wondering if a 56 truck with a 4 sp. Poly would bolt in where the current six is? I understand the frame is different on a 51 and a 56. If it would not bolt in how hard would the change over be? I built/have a 34 Dodge PU with a Hemi and A 34 Plymouth with a 360 . Any help would be valuable. Thanks Perry Jones.