roofdown

Appreciate the responses. I was holding out hope that someone knew of a bolt-on option that I couldn't find on my own. @Plymouthy Adams: you make a valid point about "warranty" after the repair. I didn't ask, but certainly will when I call the shop back. Whatever it is, said warranty will only last as long as the shop is in business (which is no guarantee they'll be around in a year or two I guess). But, to keep my project moving it looks like I'll have to go down the repair route and hope for the best.

Radiator core is leaking in a few different spots. I took to a local shop and they estimated $725 to recore it with a standard non-honeycomb core. A core close to the original honeycomb would apparently put it up over $1,000+. I'm ok with a "non-original" option as the car doesn't need to be show-perfect. So, does anyone have suggestions for cheaper options (i.e. aluminum)? My original radiator measures 22 3/4" wide (bracket to bracket) and that seems to be the tough measurement to match. I emailed Champion and they said they didn't have anything that size. Unfortunately I'm not setup to do metal fab or custom brackets. So, before I (reluctantly) spend the $725 I was curious if anyone has alternative suggestions I may have missed.? Thanks!

Anyone out there know the measurements (inside & outside length) of the running boards that would go on a 1941 Dodge D19 4-door? I'm still looking for a set of replacement boards for my car. Found a couple of leads online, but it's hard to know if they'll actually fit or not (without the exact measurements of the originals). Yes, I can measure the (empty) space between my fenders, but as I recall the boards don't fit tight against the fenders and had some gaps on each end. Any info or leads are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I did find that same ebay listing which references ramreproductions.com . I called that guy last week as I noticed it said he had 1941 Dodge boards. However, on the phone he said he doesn't have a Dodge template (only Plymouth).

Anyone know the measurements of the running boards (long side & shorter side length) that came on 41 Dodge 4-door? I still haven't found a set for my car, but have a couple of leads and I want to be sure that what I pay for will actually fit (as I'll most likely have to get something sight unseen). Thanks.

Andy, thanks for the tip, I'll check them out.

Anyone know where I can get a set of running boards for a 1941 Dodge D19 Luxury Liner? I used the forum search and found some old references to Hunley Acuff Running Boards and Buckeye Rubber, but all of the web links are dead now....wondering if these guys closed up shop.? Anyway, any leads are appreciated. FYI, I need "full" running boards and not just new rubber....the original running boards essentially rotted off the car so there isn't anything to recoat. Thanks.

FYI, I ended up making the new filter work (vs. band-aiding the old one). Wasn't too bad after all...found an adapter at Napa that would accept my fuel line & fit the threads on the filter. Had to re-bend the fuel line a bit, but it all worked out. Thanks to everyone for the advice/tips.

Yeah, that's the "IN" side where the fuel line comes in. The fuel line does fit inside their (about 1/4") and is secured by a "nut" that's on the end of the fuel line. I couldn't tell if this particular spot was leaking or not previously, but maybe if I can just fix the large gasket on the glass bowl everything else will be ok. ? Heading to Napa today to see if I can find a gasket that'll fit in where the bowl screws on. Thanks.

Ok, here are some pics: -New filter (doesn't fit) on the left. Original on the right. Gasket that glass bowl mates with: Fuel line entry point. I'm guessing the oring inside will become a problem soon (if not already contributing to leak. Artistic side-view

I'll take some pics when I get home tonight. Based on the Napa pics of the gaskets, they look different from the gasket I've got. I believe my current gasket is just a single ring, while the Napa ones aren't. I'll look again tonight though and snap some pics. Thanks.

I wasn't messing w/ the filter at all. The car hasn't been driven in several months (8-10), when I went to start it, the gas was pouring out of the bowl. Bowl was tight. I didn't take the gasket to an auto parts store yet...I originally thought I could save myself bunch of time by just spending $30 on a new/complete assembly that would just bolt on (ha!), but that obviously didn't work out. When I took the old filter off last night to try the new part (the one that didn't fit), the gasket inside the old filter looked pretty cracked and shriveled. I'll try to get it out tonight, but I don't have confidence that it'll even come out in one piece (such that I can get an exact match at the auto parts store w/ it). Thanks.

Now that I've re-read your post & researched that filter, it looks like that just replaces the internal filter element. Does that gasket in the pic fit the glass bowl? I believe that's the root of my problem (the glass bowl gasket) b/c gas pours out the top of the glass bowl. Also, my glass bowl doesn't have a large paper filter in it now, just has a small thing in there (about 1/2 the size of a AA battery) that looks like a bunch of thin metal disks stacked together. Unfortunately I'm at work now so can't snap a pic of it.

It looks more like the 2nd pic (#3943). On the 2nd filter do you know if the fuel line itself actually goes inside of the filter assembly a bit (i.e. 1/4 inch) before the nut secures it?...mine does. The replacement part I originally got (that didn't fit) wouldn't allow for the fuel line to enter the filter housing to be secured (if that makes sense). Thanks.

I've got gas leaking from my fuel filter (the little glass one outside the carb). I called around to try and find a rebuild kit (a new gasket might do the trick) but none of my go-to old parts suppliers had a rebuild. One supplier had a full fuel filter replacement assembly, so I ordered that....however, now that I received the part it doesn't match the original fittings on my fuel line (so it won't fit w/o modifying my fuel line, which I wanted to avoid). So, now I guess I'm back to square 1. Anyone ever rebuild/repair a fuel filter? Know what size gasket I need and where I can get one? Thanks, -Garrett

Thanks for all of the advice. I think I can combine a couple of these tips to come up with an ideal solution.

Yeah, unfortunately my lights are mounted up on the fenders and aren't accessible via the trunk...so, running a separate ground wire is a bit more involved here. I guess the other option is to try removing the entire taillight assembly from the fender and cleaning underneath. I was hoping to use that as a last resort b/c it doesn't look like an easy task to get them off of there.

Hey Shel, Actually, this is what I'm dealing with...

I'm having trouble getting my taillights to work on my 41 D19. I'm not too experienced w/ electrical issues, but it "appears" to me to be a ground problem. I say that b/c if I run a jumper wire from the metal on the taillight bulb bracket to the bumper, the light will light (otherwise, nothing). Same thing happens w/ both taillights. So, my next question is, how/where are these taillights grounded? Is there an actual ground wire somewhere or are the assemblies themselves supposed to be the ground (via the body/frame)? Just for some background, this car is un-restored (sat in a barn for last 45 years or so)...so, there is definitely some rust underneath. Pretty much everything is working now on the car except for the taillights & radio..but I don't need the radio for an inspection sticker. Thanks, -Garrett

Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated!

Does anyone have any good recommendations for auto restoration books? FYI, I've got a 1941 D19 that I'm trying to bring back to glory (as a driver, not a serious show car). My dad got everything mechanically sound (runs & drives great), and now I'm going to focus on some of the minor cosmetics that suit my skills (e.g. painting engine components, POR15 floors, spiffing up interior parts, replacing broken glass, etc.). Larger tasks like bodywork, paint, & chroming will be outsourced. If there are some books out there that are specific to Dodge, that would be ideal. Otherwise I'm interest in references that give a good overview on the best way to tackle a restoration (ie. order of fixes to maximize efficiency & double-work). Let me know if you've got any favorites. Thanks, -Garrett

Thanks.

Do you think it'll raise some eyebrows when I ask how to get the dead body smell out of my car?

Any ideas on how to get the oppressive must/pee smell out of my D19? It sat in a barn for the last ~45 years and it's pretty ripe. I found this old post (http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=17187), but unfortunately I can't get to the Hemmings article that was quoted here....sounds like coffee was involved. Any tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks, -Garrett

I just did some browsing around the Hemmings site and found a company called Northwest Transmission Parts (Ohio). Here is the ad: FLUID drive units and seals, 1936-54, Chrysler, DeSoto, Dodge, clutches, pressure plates, etc. Northwest Transmission Parts, 937-442-2811; 800-327-1955, OH; northwest@nwtparts.com; www.nwtparts.com Anyone dealt with them before? Thanks.